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Posted by Pete C. on August 25, 2007, 4:56 pm
terry wrote:
>
> > big e lewis wrote:
> > > Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> > > are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> > > pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> > > line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> > > Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> > > have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> > > about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> > > sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> > > check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> > > What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> > > am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> > > will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> > > the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> > > appreciated! Thanks, Earl
> >
> > Typical is 60 PSI so test to 100 PSI or more if you can.
> >
> > nate
> >
> > --
> > replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide
quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
> .
> Sounds like a workable plan.
> Get someone knowledgeable to help you. Also good joints are made with
> clean connections; use new fittings (not expensive) and clean old pipe
> carefully. Should not need testing in fact the water pressure itself
> will prove each joint. Been doing our own (plumbing etc.) for over 40
> years and had very little trouble. Not even when converting from a
> well pump (20 to 40 lbs. sq.inch) to municipal water probably at
> around 60+ lbs. sq.inch. no problems with older joints.
> Before cutting and soldering; have everything planned and ready. Water
> off make sure pipes are drained and dried out; other wise the joints
> will not heat and solder will not flow into each joint correctly. Even
> a small drip of water will prevent proper soldering!
> Not too hard to do. Someone helping you may have most of the gear
> needed; so you may only need to buy some solder, flux, sandpaper and a
> small propane bottle of gas. i.e. The consumables.
> Good luck with your project.
A few notes -
1. Be sure you are using the current lead free solder and flux.
2. Cut and dry fit (assemble) the entire new section before soldering
any of it.
3. After dry fitting the assembly, assemble and solder it progressively,
a couple joints at a time, cleaning and fluxing each connection well.
4. Trying to pre assemble too much before soldering will melt away flux
from the furthest joints without heating them enough for the flux to
work properly and trying to work all the way through in one shot will
tend to overheat sections.
5. Be sure to apply plenty of solder all around the joint, wiping off
the excess with a slightly damp rag when done.
6. Do not apply the torch to the solder, rather heat the fittings with
the torch until the solder melts readily when applied to the fitting on
the opposite side from the torch. At that point remove the torch and run
the solder all the way around the joint allowing the capillary action to
draw the solder into the joint.
7. Figure about 1"-2" of the solder should be consumed for each joint on
1/2" - 3/4" dia. copper plumbing. More than that may build up inside the
pipe and restrict flow, less risks an incompletely soldered joint which
may leak after a few days from a small flaw the was plugged with flux
residue.
8. When plumbing solo it is helpful to have two push pins with 16" of
string tied between them. This assembly is a great help in supporting a
section of pipe between floor joists wile soldering joints.
9. In some cases it is helpful to pre assemble and solder a section of
an assembly out of place i.e. on the floor on a couple firebricks rather
than try to solder a bunch of joints in a location that is difficult to
access. The assembly can be dry fit in place and a Sharpie used to mark
joint alignment to be sure you have it correct when set on the
firebricks.
10. A wet rag or one of the fiberglass heat blocking mats is a big help
in avoiding scorch marks on nearby joists and studs.
11. Use MAPP gas, not propane, it will make life a lot easier, as will a
trigger start torch such as the Bernzomatic TS series.
12. Be sure not to overheat the seats and stem packing of any valves.
Some valves can be partly disassembled before soldering to remove and
protect the seats, others cannot. If you are getting much discoloration
of the copper fittings from your soldering, you are overheating the
fittings and should practice more before soldering valves. Remember to
heat until the solder melts when it contacts the joint and then remove
the torch.
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