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Posted by Tony Hwang on August 25, 2007, 4:31 pm
big e lewis wrote:
> Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> appreciated! Thanks, Earl
>
Hi,
My house has a pressure regulator which is st at 60PSI. Outside faucet
and sprinkler have a back flow check valve.
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Posted by Richard Thoms on August 25, 2007, 5:05 pm
Quote: e01e wrote on Sat, 25 August 2007 13:49
----------------------------------------------------
> Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> appreciated! Thanks, Earl
----------------------------------------------------
I know any self-respecting professional plumber would probably not use these but
the last copper plumbing job I did (replacing hot water heater) I found some
"pre soldered" fittings at Home Depot.
See: http://www.nextag.com/no-solder-copper-fittings/search-html
These fittings have the solder built into the little "bump" and you just clean
the pipe (I put flux on too) and hit them with the torch and when they get to
temp the solder flows and you've got a good joint.
I could only find them at Home Depot (not Lowes).
--
Richard Thoms
President - Top Service Pros, Inc.
Connecting Homeowners and Local Service Professionals
http://www.TopServicePros.com
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Posted by M Q on August 25, 2007, 5:29 pm
big e lewis wrote:
> Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> appreciated! Thanks, Earl
>
You could always use compression fittings. They take no skill.
They are more expensive than soldering, but if you are only
doing one or two, would still cost less than the tools you need
for soldering.
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Posted by EXT on August 25, 2007, 6:06 pm
When you plan to cut into the main house line, add a good quality ball valve
in series so that you can cut the house water off easily when needed and
also add a "union" fitting. If your soldering is less than perfect it will
allow you to uncouple the union fitting so that you can drain the water out
of the pipe and re-solder it. Remember to add a ball valve in your branch
line so that it can be turned off as needed. You can't have too many valves.
One hint with soldering, especially with the lead free solder, clean both
the pipe and inside of the fitting very well. As for the fitting clean the
edge and about an 1/8th of an inch all around the outside of the fitting.
Flux the pipe, flux the inside of the fitting, flux the edge of the fitting
and flux the 1/8" outside edge. When the pipe and fitting are hot enough to
melt the solder by just touching it to the joint, be sure to run the solder
ALL the way around the joint while building a fillet against the edge of the
fitting and even slightly over the outside where you cleaned it. The new
lead free solders do not melt and run into and around the whole joint as
easily as the lead solders used to, by building a fillet around the edge of
the joint, you ensure that you have the solder filling the joint, and will
be less likely to be a leaky joint.
I just did a whole lot of joints and when I was tired, I didn't follow my
own advice on two joints, and they both were leakers. It takes less time and
effort to do it correctly the first time than to waste time trying to drain
a pipe and fix a leaker.
> Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> appreciated! Thanks, Earl
>
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Posted by RickH on August 29, 2007, 10:17 am
On Aug 25, 1:49 pm, e...@webtv.net (big e lewis) wrote:
> Our house has city water for everything but the outside faucets, which
> are fed by a well. The well has died, so I plan on cutting the copper
> pipe coming from the well, and connecting it into the copper city water
> line just after the shutoff valve where it comes into the house.
> Luckily, the two lines are only about 3 feet apart from each other. I
> have never worked with copper pipes before, only plastic. I thought
> about practicing sweating joints first on small scrap pieces of pipe,
> sealing one end, and pressurizing the pipe with my air compressor to
> check for leaks before I attempt this for real on my house plumbing.
> What kind of pressure is in a typical house with city water plumbing? I
> am nervous about this project, cause once I cut into the house line, I
> will have to finish it, and do it right or I will not have any water in
> the house at all till it IS right. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions are
> appreciated! Thanks, Earl
You're lucky to have both a well hole and municipal, many towns with
municipal supply wont permit you to drill a new well, but do
grandfather in the old wells. I'd consider that once you put it out
of service. In Chicago water used to be free, up into the 1980's for
many.
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