If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by MiamiCuse on February 19, 2007, 11:53 am
I am going to try to put up some wood fences 6' tall located in south
Florida.
I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the post
24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep at
intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what is
a good depth?
I am now thinking I will do it myself.
The posts will be spaced 4' apart. The post will be dug XXX inches deep and
with concrete. Now regarding the standard dog eared pressure trested
privacy wood fence panels, they come in 6'x8' so they will have to be nailed
onto three posts. The panels have three horizontal pieces of wood. If I
nail them right onto the posts, the panel will "stick out" by the width of
the wood member. Should I notch the post a little so the horizontal member
would be mounted flushed?
Thanks in advance,
MC
|
|
Posted by Lawrence on February 19, 2007, 12:33 pm
> I am going to try to put up some wood fences 6' tall located in south
> Florida.
> I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the post
> 24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep at
> intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what is
> a good depth?
There are three types of posts in a fence design. they are: corner
posts, bracing posts, and line posts. Your design only uses corner
posts and line posts.
Corner posts are usually given different treatment than line posts.
Just sink the corner posts in concrete and leave the line posts with
plain soil or some kind of good draining material. 24 inches is good
enough for all of them. that way you can bury 8 foot posts two feet
deep. When fences fail it's almost never because the posts came out
of the ground.
> The posts will be spaced 4' apart. The post will be dug XXX inches deep and
> with concrete. Now regarding the standard dog eared pressure trested
> privacy wood fence panels, they come in 6'x8' so they will have to be nailed
> onto three posts. The panels have three horizontal pieces of wood. If I
> nail them right onto the posts, the panel will "stick out" by the width of
> the wood member. Should I notch the post a little so the horizontal member
> would be mounted flushed?
Notching the post is unecessary but when it's your fence you can build
it any way you want. Although the panel will stick out it will look
just the same as any other fence since they are all built that way.
Spacing your posts at 4 feet is too much work. 8 feet is adequate
spacing between post.
|
|
Posted by EXT on February 19, 2007, 2:05 pm
A lot of decisions depend on the type of soil and local weather conditions.
In my area a rule of thumb is to bury one foot for every 1 1/2 foot of
fence, a 6' high fence would have posts 4 feet in the ground. This is
because if the frost gets under the post it will push it upwards, secondly
is because our soil is clay loam which can get soft in spring allowing a
fence to be pushed over by winds.
Your area doesn't have frost, and there is no spring to create muddy
conditions and your soil is probably sandy however you do have a lot of wind
including hurricanes. A 6 foot fence that only has 2 feet in sandy soil
would probably suffer from strong winds and be tilted if it stayed in the
ground. Personally, I would go deeper and use posts as you wanted, simply
because it is more time, frustration and money to re-do the fence if it
fails, I like doing things once.
>> I am going to try to put up some wood fences 6' tall located in south
>> Florida.
>> I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the
>> post
>> 24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep
>> at
>> intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what
>> is
>> a good depth?
> There are three types of posts in a fence design. they are: corner
> posts, bracing posts, and line posts. Your design only uses corner
> posts and line posts.
> Corner posts are usually given different treatment than line posts.
> Just sink the corner posts in concrete and leave the line posts with
> plain soil or some kind of good draining material. 24 inches is good
> enough for all of them. that way you can bury 8 foot posts two feet
> deep. When fences fail it's almost never because the posts came out
> of the ground.
>> The posts will be spaced 4' apart. The post will be dug XXX inches deep
>> and
>> with concrete. Now regarding the standard dog eared pressure trested
>> privacy wood fence panels, they come in 6'x8' so they will have to be
>> nailed
>> onto three posts. The panels have three horizontal pieces of wood. If I
>> nail them right onto the posts, the panel will "stick out" by the width
>> of
>> the wood member. Should I notch the post a little so the horizontal
>> member
>> would be mounted flushed?
> Notching the post is unecessary but when it's your fence you can build
> it any way you want. Although the panel will stick out it will look
> just the same as any other fence since they are all built that way.
> Spacing your posts at 4 feet is too much work. 8 feet is adequate
> spacing between post.
>
|
|
Posted by Goedjn on February 19, 2007, 2:16 pm
On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 11:53:28 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
>I am going to try to put up some wood fences 6' tall located in south
>Florida.
>I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the post
>24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep at
>intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what is
>a good depth?
>I am now thinking I will do it myself.
>The posts will be spaced 4' apart. The post will be dug XXX inches deep and
>with concrete. Now regarding the standard dog eared pressure trested
>privacy wood fence panels, they come in 6'x8' so they will have to be nailed
>onto three posts. The panels have three horizontal pieces of wood. If I
>nail them right onto the posts, the panel will "stick out" by the width of
>the wood member. Should I notch the post a little so the horizontal member
>would be mounted flushed?
>Thanks in advance,
The appropriate depth will vary according to what you've
got for dirt, and what your expected wind-load is.
If you're doing it yourself, set the posts as deep as your
rented soil-auger will go. I wouldn't notch the posts, less
because it sacrifices strength than because each cut is
an invitation to rot.
|
|
Posted by Hayes on February 19, 2007, 2:17 pm
MiamiCuse wrote:
> I am going to try to put up some wood fences 6' tall located in south
> Florida.
>
> I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the post
> 24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep at
> intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what is
> a good depth?
> Thanks in advance,
>
> MC
Here's a novel idea, contact your local building department. Or, you can
hope someone from around the globe has the correct answer for you.
|
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | how deep should I bury the post on a split rail fence? | September 21, 2008, 11:30 am |
| Re: Fence posts | March 29, 2007, 3:12 pm |
| Fence Posts | April 20, 2008, 11:44 am |
| Waterproofing fence posts | July 11, 2006, 3:23 pm |
| How do I know if my fence posts are set in cement? | October 8, 2006, 2:34 pm |
| Extending Fence Posts | October 11, 2006, 8:24 pm |
| Setting Fence Posts | May 10, 2007, 6:37 am |
| SQ: Removing T Fence Posts | June 24, 2007, 11:47 am |
| how do I install fence posts? | May 6, 2009, 10:51 pm |
| Quikrete Mix for setting fence posts??? | May 16, 2006, 7:19 pm |
|
|
> Florida.
> I talked to one contractor and they told me they will need to dig the post
> 24" deep and pour concrete. Some told me 48" deep. Some said 24" deep at
> intermediate posts but 48" deep at corners or gate posts. Any idea what is
> a good depth?