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How do I make a storm door close when the window (not screen) is on it?

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How do I make a storm door close when the window (not screen) is on it? trader-of-some-jacks 03-11-2008
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Posted by aemeijers on March 11, 2008, 11:23 pm
Nate Nagel wrote:
> Oren wrote:
>> On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:09:25 -0400, trader-of-some-jacks
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Do you have a door closure device? (looks like a shock absorber)
>>>>
>>>> Might need adjustment or replacement.
>>>
>>> Yes, I've played with that using each possible permutation:
>>>
>>> - a "winter" and "summer" setting for how the shaft mounts to the door
>>> (two holes for mounting, one for with screen, one for with storm
>>> window)
>>>
>>> - a screw-adjusted tension setting
>>>
>>> On the most tension setting, the door will just slam when there's no
>>> air resistance (like when the front door is open). But with the front
>>> door closed, the storm door will come flying closed, then slow down
>>> and stop short of latching into the door frame.
>>>
>>> Since I can set the closure device to essentially slam the door with
>>> no shock absorbed "bounces" back, I assume that the door is closing
>>> pretty hard. Just not hard enough to latch.
>>>
>>> Of course if I expose some screens on the door (the storm windows
>>> retract into the door frame), that cuts the insulating ability of the
>>> door. Same if I remove weather stripping or the door sweep.
>>
>>
>> With a hydraulic cylinder; it should close and then snug the door to
>> the latch. (no portion of the door dragging on the sill?) Hinges are
>> tight, etc....?
>>
>> I can only suggest the cylinder is leaking ...replace..
>
> I've been doing the same dance; I've come to the conclusion that it's
> simply not possible to have the storm door latch itself with the inside
> door closed. I have not found a closer with enough grunt to pull it
> shut, it's due to the air building up between the doors - it slams
> nicely with the inside door open.
>
> nate
>
Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
once the striker cycles.

For commercial doors, they have 2-stage closers, that keep pulling once
main swing action is done. Never seen one for residential. People with
problem doors usually self-train to take the extra second to force door
latched when they go through it.

Or if you like hillbilly engineering, there are all sorts of tricks you
can do with magnets...

(Sudden mental flashes of how old VW Beetle doors worked, at least until
the rust holes in the floor happened. New ones were <tight>, and
cracking a window did help. Probably not many left in that condition.)

aem sends...

Posted by JIMMIE on March 11, 2008, 11:53 pm
> Nate Nagel wrote:
> > Oren wrote:
> >> On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:09:25 -0400, trader-of-some-jacks
>
>
> >>>> Do you have a door closure device? (looks like a shock absorber)
>
> >>>> Might need adjustment or replacement.
>
> >>> Yes, I've played with that using each possible permutation:
>
> >>> - a "winter" and "summer" setting for how the shaft mounts to the door=

> >>> (two holes for mounting, one for with screen, one for with storm
> >>> window)
>
> >>> - a screw-adjusted tension setting
>
> >>> On the most tension setting, the door will just slam when there's no
> >>> air resistance (like when the front door is open). =A0But with the fro=
nt
> >>> door closed, the storm door will come flying closed, then slow down
> >>> and stop =A0short of latching into the door frame.
>
> >>> Since I can set the closure device to essentially slam the door with
> >>> no shock absorbed "bounces" back, I assume that the door is closing
> >>> pretty hard. =A0Just not hard enough to latch.
>
> >>> Of course if I expose some screens on the door (the storm windows
> >>> retract into the door frame), that cuts the insulating ability of the
> >>> door. =A0Same if I remove weather stripping or the door sweep.
>
> >> With a =A0hydraulic cylinder; it should close and then snug the door to=

> >> the latch. (no portion of the door dragging on the sill?) Hinges are
> >> tight, etc....?
>
> >> I can only suggest the cylinder is leaking ...replace..
>
> > I've been doing the same dance; I've come to the conclusion that it's
> > simply not possible to have the storm door latch itself with the inside
> > door closed. =A0I have not found a closer with enough grunt to pull it
> > shut, it's due to the air building up between the doors - it slams
> > nicely with the inside door open.
>
> > nate
>
> Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
> overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
> a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
> hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
> it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
> open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
> maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
> once the striker cycles.
>
> For commercial doors, they have 2-stage closers, that keep pulling once
> main swing action is done. Never seen one for residential. People with
> problem doors usually self-train to take the extra second to force door
> latched when they go through it.
>
> Or if you like hillbilly engineering, there are all sorts of tricks you
> can do with magnets...
>
> (Sudden mental flashes of how old VW Beetle doors worked, at least until
> the rust holes in the floor happened. New ones were <tight>, and
> cracking a window did help. Probably not many left in that condition.)
>
> aem sends...- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

My storm doors close,no problem, They have two closers on them, one on
the top and one on the bottom of the door.

Several years ago I bought a door that came like this and now I always
add a second closer if the door comes with just one.



Jimmie

Posted by Joe on March 12, 2008, 2:35 pm

>snip<

>
> My storm doors close,no problem, They have two closers on them, one on
> the top and one on the bottom of the door.
>
> Several years ago I bought a door that came like this and now I always
> add a second closer if the door comes with just one.
>
> Jimmie

That's the best solution of all...been there, done that. Many of the
better storm doors are much heavier than they were some years ago.
Bought and installed a new better type Larson a few months ago, and
IIRC, the directions suggested an additional closer, thus eliminating
the ugly safety chain set up. The two closer set up operates the same
as a single as far as speed but the final pull is firmer with two
since that mode is solely spring action without air assist. HTH

Joe

Posted by Mortimer Schnerd, RN on March 12, 2008, 11:08 am
aemeijers wrote:
> Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
> overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
> a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
> hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
> it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
> open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
> maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
> once the striker cycles.


You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba regulator.
It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a quarter that
has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem through a 1/8" hole
in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against the the outside. You
drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide portion of the valve to allow
the air to actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an overpressure
exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to relieve it.

Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the inner
door.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com



Posted by Jeff Wisnia on March 12, 2008, 6:15 pm
Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

> aemeijers wrote:
>
>>Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
>>overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
>>a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
>>hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
>>it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
>>open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
>>maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
>>once the striker cycles.
>
>
>
> You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba
regulator.
> It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a quarter that
> has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem through a 1/8" hole
> in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against the the outside. You
> drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide portion of the valve to
allow
> the air to actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
> the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an
overpressure
> exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to relieve it.

Have you actually observed that scheme working?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

>
> Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the inner
> door.
>
>
>




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