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How do I make a storm door close when the window (not screen) is on it?

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How do I make a storm door close when the window (not screen) is on it? trader-of-some-jacks 03-11-2008
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Posted by aemeijers on March 12, 2008, 5:56 pm
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
>
>> aemeijers wrote:
>>
>>> Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
>>> overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
>>> a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
>>> hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
>>> it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
>>> open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
>>> maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
>>> once the striker cycles.
>>
>>
>>
>> You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba
>> regulator. It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the
>> sixe of a quarter that has a central stem also made of rubber. You
>> poke the stem through a 1/8" hole in the storm door so that the valve
>> rests flat against the the outside. You drill a small 1/4" hole or
>> two underneath the wide portion of the valve to allow the air to
>> actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
>> the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an
>> overpressure exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to
>> relieve it.
>
> Have you actually observed that scheme working?
>
Sorry, forgot the tongue-in-cheek half-smiley symbol that I can never
remember how to make.

The logical solutions are, of course, user training to hand-close it,
maybe a second closer, and definitely one of those spring-limited safety
chains that at least will keep it from being torn off the house for awhile.

aem sends...

Posted by Mortimer Schnerd, RN on March 12, 2008, 6:08 pm
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
>> You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba
>> regulator. It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a
>> quarter that has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem
>> through a 1/8" hole in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against
>> the the outside. You drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide
>> portion of the valve to allow the air to actually escape; the center hole is
>> already occupied by the stem of the valve. The wide portion of the valve
>> covers the holes until an overpressure exists; then it blows out of the way
>> temporarily to relieve it.
>
> Have you actually observed that scheme working?


Hell, no. I do what I suggested at the end of the post... wait for it to latch
before I close the inside door. I just posted that other stuff for those who
are inclined to do everything the hard way.


>>
>> Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the
>> inner door.


As I said....



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com



Posted by z on March 14, 2008, 1:00 pm
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
> > aemeijers wrote:
>
> >>Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
> >>overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
> >>a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would=

> >>hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around=

> >>it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it=

> >>open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
> >>maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
> >>once the striker cycles.
>
> > You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba re=
gulator.
> > It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a quarte=
r that
> > has a central stem also made of rubber. =A0You poke the stem through a 1=
/8" hole
> > in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against the the outside. =
=A0You
> > drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide portion of the valve =
to allow
> > the air to actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the s=
tem of
> > the valve. =A0The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an ov=
erpressure
> > exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to relieve it.
>
> Have you actually observed that scheme working?
>
> Jeff
>
> --
> Jeffry Wisnia
> (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the=
inner
> > door.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

ah.... seal both doors and the chamber in between airtight. attach a
vacuum pump to the interdoor volume to pull a vacuum. will not only
shut the screen door tight, but will provide maximum insulation, more
than if you left the air in between.

Posted by RicodJour on March 14, 2008, 4:27 pm
>
> ah.... seal both doors and the chamber in between airtight. attach a
> vacuum pump to the interdoor volume to pull a vacuum. will not only
> shut the screen door tight, but will provide maximum insulation, more
> than if you left the air in between.

If there's enough a vacuum you wouldn't be able to open the door - the
ultimate security system and it's invisible! ;)

R

Posted by RicodJour on March 12, 2008, 2:02 am
>
> I've been doing the same dance; I've come to the conclusion that it's
> simply not possible to have the storm door latch itself with the inside
> door closed. I have not found a closer with enough grunt to pull it
> shut, it's due to the air building up between the doors - it slams
> nicely with the inside door open.

Yep, that's the reason. I have two hydraulic closers on my front
storm and it closes just fine - unless the interior door is closed
first. The storm door is essentially trapping air and trying to
compress it if the door seals are tight all the way around. Adjusting
the cylinders doesn't help if the seal is tight - if you adjust them
enough to close them when the interior door is closed, the storm slams
when the interior door is not closed. If you're inside, let the storm
door close first then close the interior door. From the outside is
more problematic - you have to push the storm door closed, or
sacrifice some of the weathertightness so the storm door seal will
allow some air to escape. Aemeijers idea of a one way air escape
valve in the storm door would be a simple retrofit and makes a lot of
sense.

R

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