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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on March 20, 2008, 12:12 pm
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> > On Mar 19, 10:00 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> > > On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest
> > > >I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
> > > >trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
> > > >ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work=
> > > >very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way int=
> > > >the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
> > > >This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to=
> > > >be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.
> > > You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
> > > on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.
> > Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
> > result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.
> > Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............
> I never have needed an excuse to visit my local toy store, but I don't
> buy the latest wiz-bang toys for which I have no need. ;-)
> I like to stick with stuff that works, too, even when people "tell me what=
> need and what I should have." =EF=BF=BDEven if it's the old Joe McGee Shad=
eTree
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> Fixit Shop variety. =EF=BF=BDBut I do have a collection of things that I "=
THOUGHT I
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> needed or were "GOOD" ideas." =EF=BF=BDI'll usually wait around for a whil=
e for
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> other people to test it and tell me if it's any good. =EF=BF=BDTV is a hoo=
t for
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> stuff you never knew you needed.
> Steve- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
It largely depends on how much you will use a tool in the future. I
bought a HF hammer drill that went thru a 6 inch slab and works fine,
may need it every few years.........
now no good if i had a big project going. but for a occasional hole
its cheaper and more convenient than renting one
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Posted by JIMMIE on March 20, 2008, 7:26 pm
On Mar 20, 2:00=A0am, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest
> >I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
> >trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
> >ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
> >very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
> >the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
> >This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
> >be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.
> You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
> on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.
> BTW I have 2 of those 9v Makitas and I have built all sorts of stuff
> with them, shooting 3" scews and more. The biggest difference between
> these and the bigger ones is how long you can work without swapping
> batteries.
I really like my little Makita when Im doing a lot of work overhead.
Its light and usually by the time the batteries wear down Im worn down
too.
Wife bought me a Dewalt last Christmas and I like it but it would kill
me using it to put up drywall overhead.
Jimmie
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Posted by websurf1 on March 19, 2008, 10:59 pm
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> Issue 1
> Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
> but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
> they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
> in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
> aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
> isn't an accident.
> Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
> drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
> its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
> torque.
> Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
> drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
> have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
> of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
> corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
> Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
> cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
> drill.
> Issue 2
> The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
> aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
> run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
> handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
> anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
> section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
> the armature has what look like wear marks.
> Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
> the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
> sinking a lot of time into to fix.
> Thanks for all info.
If the armature has wear marks, I'll guess that the bearings for the
shaft are worn and allowed the armature to wobble into the coils.
B&D is probably no longer worth repairing, unless you like to do that
sort of thing, which I do. The bearings are likely available on-line.
According to folks I talk to, tools that are still good are Milwaukee,
Makita, and Porter-Cable.
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Posted by ransley on March 19, 2008, 11:45 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Issue 1
> Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
> but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
> they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
> in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
> aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
> isn't an accident.
> Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
> drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
> its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
> torque.
> Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
> drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
> have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
> of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
> corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
> Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
> cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
> drill.
> Issue 2
> The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
> aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
> run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
> handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
> anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
> section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
> the armature has what look like wear marks.
> Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
> the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
> sinking a lot of time into to fix.
> Thanks for all info.
For years till it got stolen all I needed was my 9.6v Makita, you want
a low gear for screws and Harbor F probably has plastic gears as Ryoby
amd B&D . HDs brand Ridgid has a lifetime warranty when you register
it, even the battery.
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on March 19, 2008, 11:57 pm
show/hide quoted text
> > Issue 1
> > Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
> > but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
> > they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
> > in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
> > aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
> > isn't an accident.
> > Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
> > drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
> > its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
> > torque.
> > Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
> > drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
> > have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
> > of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
> > corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
> > Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
> > cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
> > drill.
> > Issue 2
> > The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
> > aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
> > run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
> > handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
> > anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
> > section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
> > the armature has what look like wear marks.
> > Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
> > the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
> > sinking a lot of time into to fix.
> > Thanks for all info.
> For years till it got stolen all I needed was my 9.6v Makita, you want
> a low gear for screws and Harbor F probably has plastic gears as Ryoby
> amd B&D . HDs brand Ridgid has a lifetime warranty when you register
> it, even the battery.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
the larger question is how old and hard are the studs your putting the
screws in? our home was built in 1950 and its a bear driving screws in
them, its easier to pre drill a hole then install screw
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> > > On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest
> > > >I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
> > > >trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
> > > >ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work=
> > > >very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way int=
> > > >the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
> > > >This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to=
> > > >be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.
> > > You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
> > > on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.
> > Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
> > result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.
> > Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............
> I never have needed an excuse to visit my local toy store, but I don't
> buy the latest wiz-bang toys for which I have no need. ;-)
> I like to stick with stuff that works, too, even when people "tell me what=
> need and what I should have." =EF=BF=BDEven if it's the old Joe McGee Shad=