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How to build metal stud non-load bearing wall?

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How to build metal stud non-load bearing wall? doug 11-27-2008
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Posted by doug on November 27, 2008, 4:15 pm
Does any one know of a web site for a novice?

Thanks in advance.

Doug

ps.
I live in a condo so my only choice is metal according to the board.

Posted by Nate Nagel on November 27, 2008, 5:53 pm
doug wrote:
> Does any one know of a web site for a novice?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Doug
>
> ps.
> I live in a condo so my only choice is metal according to the board.

no help with how to, but WHY? I really don't like metal framing for a
variety of reasons (weak, have to use BX for electric, did I mention
weak? don't fall against it...)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Posted by BobK207 on November 27, 2008, 7:11 pm
> doug wrote:
> > Does any one know of a web site for a novice?
>
> > Thanks in advance.
>
> > Doug
>
> > ps.
> > I live in a condo so my only choice is metal according to the board.
>
> no help with how to, but WHY? =A0I really don't like metal framing for a
> variety of reasons (weak, have to use BX for electric, did I mention
> weak? =A0don't fall against it...)
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Framing with LGS (light gage steel) is realitively easy.
I've done some and got decent at it but a lot of the skills & tricks
of stick framing don't translate.

I don't know of any websites but I'm sure that a search on Google will
yield something.

Here are a couple things that might help


LGS studs come in various thicknesses ...... 20 gauge comes to mind
for most residential apps

Steel studs & tracks can easily be cut with a metal cutting abrasive
wheel on your 10" miter/chop saw......
sparks / abrasive dust might be hard on your saw...rig up a
sacrificial guard to deflect them

Steel studs (either cut or from the factory can have some pretty nasty
burrs, handle carefully & keep the band-aids handy.

Studs are attached to the floor & ceiling tracks using a modified
truss head; self-drilling screw. Two screws through the tracks & stud
flanges...both ends of studs

The heads of these framing screws create slight obstructions that
prevent plywood or drywall from seating cleanly against the face of
the studs at the floor & ceiling tracks....just a fcat of screwed
together LGS framing.

Drywall can be affixed to the studs using a self-drilling drywall
screw.

LGS framing isn't hugely stiff until attached to the floor & ceiling
OR until diagonal strap bracing or sheathing is applied.

I'm not sure why Nate denigrates LGS framing....once it's properly
braced and sheathed, its strength & stiff is comparable to stick
framed walls with drywall.

I'm not a huge fan of LGS framing because my skill level with it sucks
compared to wood but it has its place.

For a "one off" partition wall, if you've got any experience with an
Erector Set or assembly of shelving requiring small screws &
nuts ......you've got enough skill to muddle through



cheers
Bob

Posted by Nate Nagel on November 28, 2008, 1:20 pm
BobK207 wrote:
>> doug wrote:
>>> Does any one know of a web site for a novice?
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> Doug
>>> ps.
>>> I live in a condo so my only choice is metal according to the board.
>> no help with how to, but WHY? I really don't like metal framing for a
>> variety of reasons (weak, have to use BX for electric, did I mention
>> weak? don't fall against it...)
>>
>> nate
>>
>> --
>> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel
>
> Framing with LGS (light gage steel) is realitively easy.
> I've done some and got decent at it but a lot of the skills & tricks
> of stick framing don't translate.
>
> I don't know of any websites but I'm sure that a search on Google will
> yield something.
>
> Here are a couple things that might help
>
>
> LGS studs come in various thicknesses ...... 20 gauge comes to mind
> for most residential apps
>
> Steel studs & tracks can easily be cut with a metal cutting abrasive
> wheel on your 10" miter/chop saw......
> sparks / abrasive dust might be hard on your saw...rig up a
> sacrificial guard to deflect them
>
> Steel studs (either cut or from the factory can have some pretty nasty
> burrs, handle carefully & keep the band-aids handy.
>
> Studs are attached to the floor & ceiling tracks using a modified
> truss head; self-drilling screw. Two screws through the tracks & stud
> flanges...both ends of studs
>
> The heads of these framing screws create slight obstructions that
> prevent plywood or drywall from seating cleanly against the face of
> the studs at the floor & ceiling tracks....just a fcat of screwed
> together LGS framing.
>
> Drywall can be affixed to the studs using a self-drilling drywall
> screw.
>
> LGS framing isn't hugely stiff until attached to the floor & ceiling
> OR until diagonal strap bracing or sheathing is applied.
>
> I'm not sure why Nate denigrates LGS framing....once it's properly
> braced and sheathed, its strength & stiff is comparable to stick
> framed walls with drywall.
>
> I'm not a huge fan of LGS framing because my skill level with it sucks
> compared to wood but it has its place.
>
> For a "one off" partition wall, if you've got any experience with an
> Erector Set or assembly of shelving requiring small screws &
> nuts ......you've got enough skill to muddle through
>
>
>
> cheers
> Bob

I run it down because I've been on lots of job sites that have been
framed but not rocked - the stuff they are using can be cut with tin
snips and is hardly thicker than flashing. If you look at it funny
you'll bend it. You have to be real careful carrying materials, if you
bump into a wall that hasn't been rocked yet you can take out the whole
wall easy and then the framing guys will be pissed at you. Wood is just
WAY better in my experience - none of these downsides *and* you can run
cheaper Romex.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Posted by Ed Pawlowski on November 27, 2008, 9:09 pm

> doug wrote:
>> Does any one know of a web site for a novice?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> ps.
>> I live in a condo so my only choice is metal according to the board.
>
> no help with how to, but WHY? I really don't like metal framing for a
> variety of reasons (weak, have to use BX for electric, did I mention weak?
> don't fall against it...)
>
> nate

Why? Because his condo board said so. Does not have to make sense.

Some fire codes call for metal studs in certain locations.
I'm not sure about the MC if you use the insulators that fit into the holes.
I know metal sheathing is needed for commercial though.



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