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How to connect 4 primed cable to 3 holes electric outlet?

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How to connect 4 primed cable to 3 holes electric outlet? Tom 06-14-2006
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Posted by Tom on June 14, 2006, 9:13 am
Hi,

I bought a relatively new electric range(Stove) to replace our broken
one. The "new" KitchenAid stove pig-tail has four primes, while the
outlet on the wall has only three holes. What should I do?

I was thinking there is some kind of adapter that I can directly insert
it to the 3 holes outlet on the wall and on its back there are four
holes. But the Home Depot people said that they have never seen that
kind of adapter. I am very surprised for that.

I called KitchenAid service helping line. They told me to replace the
pig-tail. I bought a three primed pig-tail at Home Depot. But, I found
it is very, very hard to unscrew the original one. Now, I am thinking to
change the outlet on the wall to four holes outlet by myself. Is this OK?

Thank you very much.


Posted by Doug Miller on June 14, 2006, 1:24 pm
>Hi,
>
>I bought a relatively new electric range(Stove) to replace our broken
>one. The "new" KitchenAid stove pig-tail has four primes, while the
>outlet on the wall has only three holes. What should I do?

Call an electrician.
>
>I was thinking there is some kind of adapter that I can directly insert
>it to the 3 holes outlet on the wall and on its back there are four
>holes. But the Home Depot people said that they have never seen that
>kind of adapter. I am very surprised for that.
>
>I called KitchenAid service helping line. They told me to replace the
>pig-tail. I bought a three primed pig-tail at Home Depot. But, I found
>it is very, very hard to unscrew the original one. Now, I am thinking to
>change the outlet on the wall to four holes outlet by myself. Is this OK?

Considering that you don't appear to understand the electrical safety issues
involved, I'd have to say, no, it's not OK. It is *not* sufficient simply to
replace the existing 3-hole receptacle with a new 4-hole receptacle. It is
also necessary to replace the cable feeding that receptacle with a cable
having four conductors (two hots, neutral, and ground). If you don't
understand why, you shouldn't even be thinking about attempting this yourself.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by Greg Guarino on June 14, 2006, 11:37 pm
On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:24:05 GMT, spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller)
wrote:


> (two hots, neutral, and ground).

Just for my own edification, the neutral in this case is needed
because the stove needs 220v and 110v?

Greg

Posted by on June 15, 2006, 1:02 am
wrote:

>Just for my own edification, the neutral in this case is needed
>because the stove needs 220v and 110v?
>
>Greg

Yes, it will power the clock, oven light and whatever other 120v load
there is.
In the case of dryers the timer and motor is 120v

Posted by on June 14, 2006, 1:39 pm

>Hi,
>
>I bought a relatively new electric range(Stove) to replace our broken
>one. The "new" KitchenAid stove pig-tail has four primes, while the
>outlet on the wall has only three holes. What should I do?
>
>I was thinking there is some kind of adapter that I can directly insert
>it to the 3 holes outlet on the wall and on its back there are four
>holes. But the Home Depot people said that they have never seen that
>kind of adapter. I am very surprised for that.
>
>I called KitchenAid service helping line. They told me to replace the
>pig-tail. I bought a three primed pig-tail at Home Depot. But, I found
>it is very, very hard to unscrew the original one. Now, I am thinking to
>change the outlet on the wall to four holes outlet by myself. Is this OK?
>
>Thank you very much.

Can you see the writing on the cable that feeds your receptacle? If it
says 8-3 / wg (6-3 /wg?) and has a red, black and white wire in it
plus a bare ground you can replace the receptacle. Just be sure the
white and bare are on the bus in the panel.
It was common to pull a 4 wire cable to a 3 wire receptacle since the
strict reading of the code implies the 3d wire should be insulated (it
is a neutral, also used as a ground). The bare usually went to the box
or back strap of the receptacle and the white went to the
neutral/ground pin lug.
If any of this seems confusing seek a pro.

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