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How to connect a drain to a vent stack?

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Subject Author Date
How to connect a drain to a vent stack? Walter R. 06-01-2008
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Posted by Walter R. on June 1, 2008, 8:20 pm
I would like to install a water softener in my garage. The pipes in the
house are set up for hard (cold) and soft (warm) water. However, when they
built the house, they forgot to put a drain anywhere near the water
softener. The drain is needed to dispose of the brine after regenerating the
resin in the softener.

OTOH, there is a 3" ASB vent stack/drain in the wall right behind the water
softener. It has a threaded 3" cleanout plug about 3 feet from the floor.
The clean-out is in the vertical section.

Originally, they just drilled a 1/2" hole at an angle in the clean-out plug
and fed the 3/8" copper pipe for the brine though the hole into the vent.
Somehow that does not look like being code compliant, with sewer gases and
all.

Is there any legit way I can replace the cleanout plug with a j-trap into
which I can then feed the 3/8" brine tube??

It would probably be some kind of Rube Goldberg construction. Just how
would I convert the plug to a j-trap? What kind of parts?

Thanks a lot!

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-



Posted by Speedy Jim on June 1, 2008, 9:14 pm
Walter R. wrote:

> I would like to install a water softener in my garage. The pipes in the
> house are set up for hard (cold) and soft (warm) water. However, when they
> built the house, they forgot to put a drain anywhere near the water
> softener. The drain is needed to dispose of the brine after regenerating the
> resin in the softener.
>
> OTOH, there is a 3" ASB vent stack/drain in the wall right behind the water
> softener. It has a threaded 3" cleanout plug about 3 feet from the floor.
> The clean-out is in the vertical section.
>
> Originally, they just drilled a 1/2" hole at an angle in the clean-out plug
> and fed the 3/8" copper pipe for the brine though the hole into the vent.
> Somehow that does not look like being code compliant, with sewer gases and
> all.
>
> Is there any legit way I can replace the cleanout plug with a j-trap into
> which I can then feed the 3/8" brine tube??
>
> It would probably be some kind of Rube Goldberg construction. Just how
> would I convert the plug to a j-trap? What kind of parts?
>
> Thanks a lot!
>


Leaving aside a number of Code issues, one could screw in a 3" male
adapter where the CO is now. Run that up to a 3" TEE-WYE fitting.
Put a new CO in the top of the WYE. Reduce the side inlet of the WYE to
accept a 2" P trap (ABS).

It may be necessary to install a mechanical vent (Studor/Oatey)
on the downstream side of the P trap to prevent siphonage if the
stack carries large flows (toilet flushing).

I would not connect the 3/8" copper line directly into the trap;
instead, physically clamp the copper somehow so that it is positioned
maybe 2" above the trap inlet. That will provide an air gap that
will prevent waste from the stack getting into the brine.

Legit? Nah.
Rube Goldberg? You bet.

LOL

Posted by Walter R. on June 1, 2008, 11:12 pm
Thanks, but why would your suggestion not comply with code??

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
> Walter R. wrote:
>
>> I would like to install a water softener in my garage. The pipes in the
>> house are set up for hard (cold) and soft (warm) water. However, when
>> they built the house, they forgot to put a drain anywhere near the water
>> softener. The drain is needed to dispose of the brine after regenerating
>> the resin in the softener.
>>
>> OTOH, there is a 3" ASB vent stack/drain in the wall right behind the
>> water softener. It has a threaded 3" cleanout plug about 3 feet from the
>> floor. The clean-out is in the vertical section.
>>
>> Originally, they just drilled a 1/2" hole at an angle in the clean-out
>> plug and fed the 3/8" copper pipe for the brine though the hole into the
>> vent. Somehow that does not look like being code compliant, with sewer
>> gases and all.
>>
>> Is there any legit way I can replace the cleanout plug with a j-trap into
>> which I can then feed the 3/8" brine tube??
>>
>> It would probably be some kind of Rube Goldberg construction. Just how
>> would I convert the plug to a j-trap? What kind of parts?
>>
>> Thanks a lot!
>>
>
>
> Leaving aside a number of Code issues, one could screw in a 3" male
> adapter where the CO is now. Run that up to a 3" TEE-WYE fitting.
> Put a new CO in the top of the WYE. Reduce the side inlet of the WYE to
> accept a 2" P trap (ABS).
>
> It may be necessary to install a mechanical vent (Studor/Oatey)
> on the downstream side of the P trap to prevent siphonage if the
> stack carries large flows (toilet flushing).
>
> I would not connect the 3/8" copper line directly into the trap;
> instead, physically clamp the copper somehow so that it is positioned
> maybe 2" above the trap inlet. That will provide an air gap that
> will prevent waste from the stack getting into the brine.
>
> Legit? Nah.
> Rube Goldberg? You bet.
>
> LOL



Posted by Harry K on June 1, 2008, 11:16 pm
> Walter R. wrote:
> > I would like to install a water softener in my garage. The pipes in the
> > house are set up for hard (cold) and soft (warm) water. However, when th=
ey
> > built the house, they forgot to put a drain anywhere near the water
> > softener. The drain is needed to dispose of the brine after regenerating=
the
> > resin in the softener.
>
> > OTOH, there is a 3" ASB vent stack/drain in the wall right behind the wa=
ter
> > softener. It has a threaded 3" cleanout plug about 3 feet from the floor=
.
> > The clean-out is in the vertical section.
>
> > Originally, they just drilled a 1/2" hole at an angle in the clean-out p=
lug
> > and fed the 3/8" copper pipe for the brine though the hole into the vent=
.
> > Somehow that does not look like being code compliant, with sewer gases a=
nd
> > all.
>
> > Is there any legit way I can replace the cleanout plug with a j-trap int=
o
> > which I can then feed the 3/8" brine tube??
>
> > It would probably be some kind of Rube Goldberg construction. =A0Just ho=
w
> > would I convert the plug to a j-trap? What kind of parts?
>
> > Thanks a lot!
>
> =A0 =A0 Leaving aside a number of Code issues, one could screw in a 3" mal=
e
> adapter where the CO is now. =A0Run that up to a 3" TEE-WYE fitting.
> Put a new CO in the top of the WYE. =A0Reduce the side inlet of the WYE to=

> accept a 2" P trap (ABS).
>
> =A0 =A0 It may be necessary to install a mechanical vent (Studor/Oatey)
> on the downstream side of the P trap to prevent siphonage if the
> stack carries large flows (toilet flushing).
>
> =A0 =A0 I would not connect the 3/8" copper line directly into the trap;
> instead, physically clamp the copper somehow so that it is positioned
> maybe 2" above the trap inlet. =A0That will provide an air gap that
> will prevent waste from the stack getting into the brine.
>
> =A0 =A0Legit? =A0Nah.
> =A0 =A0Rube Goldberg? =A0You bet.
>
> LOL- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Good point about the 'air gap'. The rest of the set up is jsut
standard plumbing fittings once the screw-in adapter is in place, just
keep necking down to get to a reasonable size.

One can do amazing things with pieces from the local plumbers parts
bins. I once even built a barrel pump out of standard fittings.
Another was a reel for a 1/4" hose line used to water house plants.
The rotating axle feed was from one of those 'snap-on' hose
connectors.

Harry K

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