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Posted by Ray K on June 8, 2008, 2:00 pm
HeyBub wrote:
> Ray K wrote:
>
>> I didn't leave the recommended 1/4" gap between the floor and the sill
>> plate, so now I want to saw it out before installing the base
>> molding. I need cut about nine feet, so using a flush pull saw would
>> be tedious.
>> I went to Home Depot and Lowe's looking for a small circular saw blade
>> (maybe 4 or 5 inches) that I could stick in an electric drill. Neither
>> store had anything, even in the Dremel section. Any other suggestions?
>>
>>
>
> Is the wall you butted agains drywall? If so, it would be far easier to cut
> the drywall and dig out the chalk chips.
>
My followup post clarifies this.
> You could use an "undercut" saw: Here's an example:
>
> http://www.drillspot.com/products/434051/Qep_10096_Undercut_Saw
>
> These are available at the box stores.
>
This would work, but very tedious for the 8 or so feet I have to deal
with. (But the other 45 feet are properly gapped.) ;-)
> 4.5" circular saw blades ARE available. I have one on a B&D battery-operated
> teeny saw. Attaching it to a drill would be tricky, but I bet it could be
> done. If you have a variable speed router, attaching a 7.5" blade to its
> chuck might work.
>
>
I'll follow up on this excellent idea.
> You can also probably make use of an undercut or toe-kick saw.
>
>
http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Tile-Tools/Jamb-Saws-Toe-Kick-Saws_2;jsessionid=0a0109441f438e042bcfba5142d4a4eca17eaa877faa.e3eTaxmKbNaNe34Pay0
>
> Might be able to rent one rather than spend $250.
>
Another excellent idea. There's a couple of rental places nearby.
> ------
> Since you have the molding off, this is an excellent time to clean, fix the
> dents, and repaint it.
>
Not much to do in this regard. The worst problem is that there is a bit
of waviness in the wallboard between some of the studs. I'll take care
of that with caulk along the top of the molding.
Thanks for the ideas.
Ray
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