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How to glue 6-mil polyethylene sheeting to concrete

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How to glue 6-mil polyethylene sheeting to concrete Ray K 10-05-2009
  ---> Re: Solved Ed Pawlowski10-05-2009
  | ---> Re: Solved hr(bob) hofmann...10-05-2009
  |     ---> Re: Solved bob haller10-06-2009
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Posted by Ray K on October 5, 2009, 1:40 am


The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)

From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

Posted by Ed Pawlowski on October 5, 2009, 5:50 am



> .
> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue the
> poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> Any other suggestions?

Nothing is going to work well. Glue does not stick to poly. You may get it
to lay down with the heat of a hair dryer.



Posted by ransley on October 5, 2009, 7:05 am


> The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
> roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
> more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
> flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
> of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
> still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
> some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
> raised.
> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
> the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
> overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
> flattening the folds with glue.)
> =A0From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
> with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
> into the mastic.
> One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
> instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces=
.
> Any other suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Ray

I thought pergo sheeting came in a roll, a hair dryer as EP said
should work or electric paint stripper gun, just dont melt it.

Posted by HeyBub on October 5, 2009, 8:02 am


Ray K wrote:
> The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
> roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
> more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
> flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
> weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
> years, it still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable
> springiness at
> some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
> raised.
> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
> the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to
> be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern
> is flattening the folds with glue.)
> From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
> with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
> into the mastic.
> One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
> instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable
> surfaces.

6-mil poly can actuall push up an interlocked wood floor? One great sage
said it best:

"I've been to one world fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the
stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones."

I'd suspect a dip in the concrete. Are you sure the base floor is (gulp)
level?



Posted by DerbyDad03 on October 5, 2009, 8:27 am


> The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
> roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
> more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
> flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
> of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
> still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
> some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
> raised.
> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
> the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
> overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
> flattening the folds with glue.)
> =A0From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
> with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
> into the mastic.
> One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
> instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces=
.
> Any other suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Ray

I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
question:

How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?

Are you sure the subfloor itself isn't the issue?

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