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Posted by EXT on October 5, 2009, 4:38 pm
> > The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged
> > in a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet
> > long but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting,
> > it didn't lay
> > flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
> > weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
> > years, it
> > still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness
> > at some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
> > noticeably raised.
> >
> > Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
> > glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> >
> > (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have
> > to be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only
> > concern is flattening the folds with glue.)
> >
> > From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
> > mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
> > the poly into the mastic.
> >
> > One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
> > cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
> > acceptable surfaces.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ray
>
> I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
> question:
>
> How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
> keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?
6-mil is not 6 millimeters, the short form is 6mm. 6-mil is 6 thousands of
an inch, about two sheets of 20 pound (now that is another complicated
scale) paper thick.
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Posted by DerbyDad03 on October 5, 2009, 4:57 pm
> > > The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged
> > > in a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet
> > > long but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting,
> > > it didn't lay
> > > flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
> > > weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
> > > years, it
> > > still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness
> > > at some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
> > > noticeably raised.
> > > Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
> > > glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> > > (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have
> > > to be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only
> > > concern is flattening the folds with glue.)
> > > From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
> > > mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
> > > the poly into the mastic.
> > > One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
> > > cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
> > > acceptable surfaces.
> > > Any other suggestions?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ray
> > I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
> > question:
> > How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
> > keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?
> 6-mil is not 6 millimeters, the short form is 6mm. 6-mil is 6 thousands o=
f
> an inch, about two sheets of 20 pound (now that is another complicated
> scale) paper thick.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
Other than the unit of measure error, I'm thinking it's still a valid
question.
re: about two sheets of 20 pound paper thick
Actually, it's about 1.5 sheets...
20 lb. Bond thickness =3D
50 lb. Regular Offset thickness =3D
70 lb. Smooth Offset thickness =3D
80 lb. Gloss Coated Book thickness =3D
20 lb. CB Carbonless thickness=3D
0.004"
What's so complicated about that scale? <g>
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Posted by Tegger on October 5, 2009, 9:35 pm
>
> 20 lb. Bond thickness 50 lb. Regular Offset thickness 70 lb. Smooth
> Offset thickness 80 lb. Gloss Coated Book thickness 20 lb. CB
> Carbonless thickness0.004"
>
It's pretty silly, yes. And "basis weight" is so steeped in time that no
one can change it now.
Each type of paper's descriptor weight is based on a particular "basis"
sheet size, that sheet size varying with the type of paper: 500 sheets of
that basis size would weigh that many pounds. That's what's called the
"basis weight".
I have a book at work that gives this in detail, including the basis sheet
size for each paper type (we use a lot of 100# offset in our business).
And since you can compress paper fibers quite a lot or just a little, the
overall thickness will be very close between the different weights. You
need to get up into boxboard before thickness (8pt, 10pt, 24pt, etc)
becomes the descriptor rather than basis weight.
To make things even more confusing, Europe and China use gsm (grams per
square meter) as the descriptor, so it can be hard to find exact
equivalents between theirs and ours unless you have a physical sample of
the gsm board.
--
Tegger
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Posted by bob haller on October 5, 2009, 8:38 am
> The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
> roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
> more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
> flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
> of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
> still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
> some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
> raised.
> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
> the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
> overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
> flattening the folds with glue.)
> =EF=BF=BDFrom googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt m=
astic
> with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
> into the mastic.
> One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
> instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces=
.
> Any other suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Ray
must be a sub floor issue, whats the sub floor made of?
sounds like concrete the plastic sheet is generally a vapor barrier.
might still be moisture issues if its concrete
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Posted by HeyBub on October 5, 2009, 12:54 pm
bob haller wrote:
>> The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in
>> a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long
>> but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it
>> didn't lay
>> flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
>> weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
>> years, it
>> still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
>> some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
>> noticeably raised.
>> Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
>> glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
>> (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to
>> be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern
>> is flattening the folds with glue.)
>> ?From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
>> mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
>> the poly into the mastic.
>> One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
>> cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
>> acceptable surfaces.
>> Any other suggestions?
>> Thanks,
>> Ray
> must be a sub floor issue, whats the sub floor made of?
> sounds like concrete the plastic sheet is generally a vapor barrier.
> might still be moisture issues if its concrete
Ah, good catch! The untaped (!) poly sheeting could let sufficient moisture
through to ever-so-slightly warp the boards.
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> > in a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet
> > long but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting,
> > it didn't lay
> > flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
> > weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
> > years, it
> > still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness
> > at some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
> > noticeably raised.
> >
> > Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
> > glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
> >
> > (Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have
> > to be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only
> > concern is flattening the folds with glue.)
> >
> > From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
> > mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
> > the poly into the mastic.
> >
> > One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
> > cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
> > acceptable surfaces.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ray