Home Page link

How to insulate on a cold storage room

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
How to insulate on a cold storage room car crash 10-05-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by car crash on October 5, 2008, 5:15 pm


I have a cold storage room underneath my front porch. It is poured
out of concrete. It is around 20 long wide by 5 feet Wide. We don't
use it at all for cold storage, but want to use it for regular storage
year round. Obviously it is very cold in there during the winter.
How do I Insulate a cold storage room to make it useful at room
temperature ? Should I frame the whole thing and then use R-12
insulation or something else ? Should I just spray foam everything ?
Should I use Styrofoam ?

Any ideas would help.

Thanks.

D


Posted by on October 5, 2008, 6:57 pm


> I have a cold storage room underneath my front porch. =A0It is poured
> out of concrete. =A0It is around 20 long wide by 5 feet Wide. =A0We don't
> use it at all for cold storage, but want to use it for regular storage
> year round. =A0Obviously it is very cold in there during the winter.
> How do I Insulate a cold storage room to make it useful at room
> temperature ? =A0Should I frame the whole thing and then use R-12
> insulation or something else ? =A0Should I just spray foam everything ?
> Should I use Styrofoam ?
>
> Any ideas would help.
>
> Thanks.
>
> D

I would use conventional home insulation. In most areas that would
be fiberglass. I would not use Styrofoam unless I was going to put it
behind a fire resistant wall. That stuff is a real killer when it
burns.

In my experience most all regular storage does not mind getting
cold, unless it has water in it. Maybe you can leave it as it is and
just make sure you don't store something in there that freezing might
damage.

Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on October 5, 2008, 7:22 pm




I would use conventional home insulation. In most areas that would
be fiberglass. I would not use Styrofoam unless I was going to put it
behind a fire resistant wall. That stuff is a real killer when it
burns.

*******************************************************
Code does require foam be covered with drywall, but the product of
combustion are soot, water, carbon. It is actually safer than many other
materials in the home. It is an oil derivative and has about the same when
burned. Please take the time to look into it before making statements that
exaggerate. Foam plastic for insulation does have additives (bromides) to
make the fire go out when the source of ignition is removed.



Posted by Larry Fishel on October 6, 2008, 1:16 am


> Code does require foam be covered with drywall, but the product of
> combustion are soot, water, carbon.

Um... First of all, I think you mean soot, water and CARBON DIOXIDE.
And, that's when burned in an incinerator under ideal conditions. In a
house fire, there are other products, not the least of which is carbon
MONoxide.

> It is actually safer than many other
> materials in the home.

That is probably true, but that's not saying very much.

> It is an oil derivative and has about the same when
> burned.

Precidesly. The foam required to insulate a 20X5 foot room would be
equivalent to burning several gallons of gasoline. Thanks, but I'll
pass on breathing that.

> =A0Foam plastic for insulation does have additives (bromides) to
> make the fire go out when the source of ignition is removed.

The problem with a house fire is that the source of ignition is never
removed unless everything in the room is fire retardant. It's not the
same as setting a block of foam on the table in the lab and trying to
light it with a match.

Posted by on October 6, 2008, 2:30 pm


>
> =A0 =A0I would use conventional home insulation. =A0In most areas that wo=
uld
> be fiberglass. =A0I would not use Styrofoam unless I was going to put it
> behind a fire resistant wall. =A0That stuff is a real killer when it
> burns.
>
> *******************************************************
> Code does require foam be covered with drywall, but the product of
> combustion are soot, water, carbon. =A0It is actually safer than many oth=
er
> materials in the home. =A0It is an oil derivative and has about the same =
when
> burned. =A0Please take the time to look into it before making statements =
that
> exaggerate. =A0 Foam plastic for insulation does have additives (bromides=
) to
> make the fire go out when the source of ignition is removed.

"When burned without enough oxygen or at lower temperatures (as in
a campfire or a household fireplace), polystyrene can produce
polycyclic aromatic compounds, carbon black, and carbon monoxide, as
well as styrene monomers." (wikipedia) Those are some nasty things
to breath.

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
venting for cold storage room June 25, 2007, 7:05 pm
Humidity in cold storage room September 2, 2007, 11:43 pm
Musty odor in storage room April 1, 2007, 1:07 am
Cold Loft Room February 28, 2006, 4:56 pm
Cold room in warm zone November 13, 2006, 11:57 am
Another post on Insulating a cold room October 9, 2008, 7:36 pm
Register Booster Vent, for a hot or cold room, boosts air flow July 10, 2007, 2:11 pm
urethane floor finish room-by-room January 6, 2006, 6:28 am
why does my basement cold water pipe only rattle during cold weather? November 6, 2007, 9:07 am
Shower upstairs hot-cold-hot-cold.. August 29, 2007, 12:27 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap