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Posted by DerbyDad03 on September 29, 2009, 9:04 am
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> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> (snip)
> > I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.
> > When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
> > measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
> > rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
> > as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
> > between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
> > measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
> > height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
> > were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
> > what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.
> Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
> opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
> dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
> to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
> sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
> actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
> dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
> replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller window=
> Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
> casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was
> milled. If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely
> would have a lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to
> attach anything to. If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces,
> you could peel those out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying
> at the joints with a sharp putty knife.
> --
> aem sends...
Thanks aem, what you say make sense, for the most part.
However, I would like to comment on this statement:
"What you described is the dimensions for a sash replacement kit, not
a replacement window"
I hear what you are saying, but to some extent I disagree.
If I were able to remove all the parts of the casement window back to
the jambs (which would leave me with a 38 1/2" x 37 3/4") opening, I
could certainly buy a 2 view slider *replacement window* to fit into
the opening. That way I would not have to remove any trim or jamb.
Based on my measurements of the existing frames around each sash and
the frame around a 2-view slider, the glass area of the window will be
the same. (I am not going with a replacement casement because I know
that the center mullion is considerably wider than on wooden casements
or vinyl sliders.)
I guess it time to start pulling the trim pieces around the sashes
themselves to see how the window was installed.
Thanks again.
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> (snip)
> > I guess I'm not explaining this very well, so I'll try again.
> > When I replaced all the double hung windows in my house, the
> > measurements were pretty simple. The windows had wooden sashes that
> > rode up and down in aluminum tracks with springs inside plastic tubes
> > as "counterweights". It was easy to slip thin strips of material
> > between the tracks and the interior stops to determine the width
> > measurement of the rough opening without taking the window out. The
> > height was even easier since the top and bottom of the rough opening
> > were exposed when the windows were open. There was no question as to
> > what was part of the window and what was the rough opening.
> Okay, THAT is why people are getting confused. That is NOT the rough
> opening. That is the 'inside the jamb' dimensions. Rough opening is the
> dimensions of the hole in the wall framing that the jamb fits into, stud
> to stud, and sill to header. What you described is the dimensions for a
> sash replacement kit, not a replacement window. I guess some vendors
> actually sell a whole new thin-framed window to fit inside those
> dimensions, but most people prefer to either just replace the sashes, or
> replace the whole window, so as to not end up with visibly smaller window=
> Again, you may or may not be able to reuse the old jamb from the kitchen
> casement windows- depends how it is designed, and how the jamb was
> milled. If it is all milled out of one board on each side, you likely
> would have a lot of chisel and router work to get it flat enough to
> attach anything to. If it is a regular jamb with attached inner pieces,
> you could peel those out. No way to tell without seeing it, and prying
> at the joints with a sharp putty knife.
> --
> aem sends...