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Posted by on September 20, 2006, 3:27 pm
Hi,
What's the best way to patch this hole.
http://i.math.drexel.edu/~pg/howtopatch.jpg
The vanity in front of the wall (you can see that backsplash on the
picture) cannot be moved as it is calked to the floor.
Many thanks in advance!
Aaron Fude
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Posted by trbo20 on September 20, 2006, 3:52 pm
aaronfude@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> What's the best way to patch this hole.
>
> http://i.math.drexel.edu/~pg/howtopatch.jpg
>
> The vanity in front of the wall (you can see that backsplash on the
> picture) cannot be moved as it is calked to the floor.
>
> Many thanks in advance!
>
> Aaron Fude
It looks like there's a stud to the left of the box. If so then do
the following.
Remove the outlet
Widen the hole so it exposes half of the left stud and cut the top of
the hole back to expose a few more inches above the outlet box.
Cut a square patch that fits as accurately as you can.
Put a little chalk on the box and push the patch into the hole
transferring a chalk outline of the box opening onto the back of it.
Using a small keyhole saw or utility knife, very carefully cut the box
opening in the patch.
Glue the patch to the studs, tape, and mud the seams. Sand, prime, and
paint
Put the outlet back on.
As for the vanity splash, I would attempt to have the patch dip under
it by a few inches and glue it in place. Use caulk to hide any
imperfections.
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Posted by on September 20, 2006, 5:08 pm
Hi,
Thanks a lot for your response! I really like your idea (except for the
remove the electric box - it took me half a day yesterday to put it in
:))
Thanks!
Aaron Fude
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Posted by Frank Warner on September 21, 2006, 4:52 pm
> Hi,
>
> Thanks a lot for your response! I really like your idea (except for the
> remove the electric box - it took me half a day yesterday to put it in
Leave the box. Remove the outlet.
-Frank
--
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/
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Posted by Chris Lewis on September 20, 2006, 5:15 pm
> Remove the outlet
> Widen the hole so it exposes half of the left stud and cut the top of
> the hole back to expose a few more inches above the outlet box.
If the stud on the right isn't doubled, and I was trying for best
possible job, I'd widen that side too, so I could put a batten
behind it to support at least the right side of the hole.
[The idea being making sure that the right side of the hole
can't push back and crack the tape. That may be overly fussy
for many. Depends on how much of a span there is on the right.
Etc]
All screwed down, no glue required.
Further, as the outlet ears are supported at the top of the hole by
the existing drywall, it isn't necessary to extend the hole _up_ any
further, because the outlet cover will reach far enough "up". The patch
can be "U" shaped. Makes cutting/layout of the patch easier.
> Cut a square patch that fits as accurately as you can.
>
> Put a little chalk on the box and push the patch into the hole
> transferring a chalk outline of the box opening onto the back of it.
>
> Using a small keyhole saw or utility knife, very carefully cut the box
> opening in the patch.
>
> Glue the patch to the studs, tape, and mud the seams. Sand, prime, and
> paint
>
> Put the outlet back on.
>
> As for the vanity splash, I would attempt to have the patch dip under
> it by a few inches and glue it in place. Use caulk to hide any
> imperfections.
You may not be able to get a couple inches behind the vanity and at
the same time be able to install it over the electrical box. The
studs and backsplash form a "slot" that the drywall MUST follow,
but the outlet box is protruding in the "plane" of the slot. So
something has to bend (unless there's enough slop in the slot).
Regular drywall doesn't bend very well.
Even 1/4" of overlap would be enough, but 1/2" would be better in
terms of ensuring that the edge doesn't crumble away, and still be
possible to slide it in. [As it is, you'd probably have to bevel
the back side of the patch on the bottom.]
If you really had to have several inches below the backsplash,
you'd have to remove the outlet box, install the patch, and then
reinstall a retrofit box.
But if you're good with priming and caulk, you could probably get
away with no overlap at all.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
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