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Posted by charlie on May 7, 2007, 4:51 pm
> On Mon, 7 May 2007 12:53:42 -0700, "charlie"
>
>>
>>> On 7 May 2007 12:33:12 -0700, secretivelad@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Is it possible that what you are describing as glue is actually clear
>>>>> silicone caulking? Is it pliable? If so, you can probably cut the
>>>>> top
>>>>> loose with a sharp knife.
>>>>>
>>>>> If it isn't clear silicone caulking, I don't have any suggestion for
>>>>> you,
>>>>> other than to try different solvents - start with water and go from
>>>>> there.
>>>>
>>>>Honestly, I don't know if it's clear silicone caulking. I have very
>>>>little knowledge when it comes to adhesives. But, it's not pliable.
>>>>The top glass plate is firmly attached, and it can't be moved even
>>>>with great force.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I would at least try a hair dryer. Maybe some heat will soften it up.
>>
>>too much heat, and you'd probably crack the glass. i'd be really careful
>>doing this.
>
> I would guess the metal would draw most of the heat, little as it
> would be with a hair dryer. Tempered glass should not crack under this
> heat, unless I'm wrong. The table should be tempered glass?
dining tables are almost never tempered. in years of cutting them up, i've
never encountered one.
the metal is not touching the glass (it has the glue/plastic/whatever in
between), so won't draw out any heat.
tempered glass resists heat better than non-tempered. a hot pot on a
non-tempered glass table will crack it. a hair dryer would easily reach the
temps of a hot pot. the problem is localized heat differentials setting up
stress points in the glass. if you could raise the heat across the complete
sheet at the same time, this wouldn't happen. if the glass was scratched
where you're heating it, it would be even worse, as the scratch will locally
lessen the strength.
> --
> Oren
>
> ..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in
> the photo..
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
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