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How to remove hot water baseboard heater bprose 07-23-2005
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Posted by bprose on July 23, 2005, 6:54 pm




First, I'm brand new to this forum, and thrilled to find you all here.

Second, I'm an avid DIYer, and have done lots of heavy-duty work

myself.

Third, I just bought a condo in a building built in 1915 as apartments.

Much of the improvements made on the units here were done on the

cheap... Including the hot water baseboard heat installation: All the

plumbing was installed *outside* the walls. The only good news about

this is that most of my plumbing is *very* accessible.

Fourth, and here's my situation, I just tore down a wall which

separated the original tiny, very un-functional kitchen from the

"butler's pantry" where the beautiful old cabinetry is. Wonderful,

except what I have now is two hot water baseboard heaters running

through the middle of the room. My beloved plumber has a plan for

redirecting the heating which will also work with the new appliances

and cabinets I'm going to install. However, he won't be available for

several weeks (NONE of the plumbers in my area have any time,) and I

need to get my flooring in and get my walls prepared for the

appliances, cabinets and countertops that will be arriving in the next

couple weeks.

So I want to remove the baseboard heaters myself and to cap off the

pipes at the edges of the room so I can do the work I need to do

ASAP... If that's possible. I've already stripped them down to just

pipe and fins.

My level of experience with plumbing: I've removed and installed

toilets and sinks & faucets using copper, pvc and almost every other

type of pipe.

So can I do this? If so, HOW? I've scoured the internet and haven't

found a how-to on this.

THANK YOU for what ever help you might be able to give me!!!

--Bonnie.





--

bprose


Posted by RBM on July 23, 2005, 6:54 pm


Your baseboard must originate and terminate at a boiler (feed and return).
If you only have one zone in the condo you should be able to drain it down
at the boiler then just cut the pipes near the walls as you don't need heat
now. Some plumbers install valves on the heating zones that you can close
off, but some don't. If your boiler is supplying hot water (domestic) you
need to keep that active.
>
> First, I'm brand new to this forum, and thrilled to find you all here.
>
> Second, I'm an avid DIYer, and have done lots of heavy-duty work
> myself.
>
> Third, I just bought a condo in a building built in 1915 as apartments.
> Much of the improvements made on the units here were done on the
> cheap... Including the hot water baseboard heat installation: All the
> plumbing was installed *outside* the walls. The only good news about
> this is that most of my plumbing is *very* accessible.
>
> Fourth, and here's my situation, I just tore down a wall which
> separated the original tiny, very un-functional kitchen from the
> "butler's pantry" where the beautiful old cabinetry is. Wonderful,
> except what I have now is two hot water baseboard heaters running
> through the middle of the room. My beloved plumber has a plan for
> redirecting the heating which will also work with the new appliances
> and cabinets I'm going to install. However, he won't be available for
> several weeks (NONE of the plumbers in my area have any time,) and I
> need to get my flooring in and get my walls prepared for the
> appliances, cabinets and countertops that will be arriving in the next
> couple weeks.
>
> So I want to remove the baseboard heaters myself and to cap off the
> pipes at the edges of the room so I can do the work I need to do
> ASAP... If that's possible. I've already stripped them down to just
> pipe and fins.
>
> My level of experience with plumbing: I've removed and installed
> toilets and sinks & faucets using copper, pvc and almost every other
> type of pipe.
>
> So can I do this? If so, HOW? I've scoured the internet and haven't
> found a how-to on this.
>
> THANK YOU for what ever help you might be able to give me!!!
>
> --Bonnie.
>
>
> --
> bprose




Posted by Speedy Jim on July 23, 2005, 6:59 pm


bprose wrote:

> Third, I just bought a condo in a building built in 1915 as apartments.

<SNIP>
>
> So I want to remove the baseboard heaters myself and to cap off the
> pipes at the edges of the room so I can do the work I need to do
> ASAP... If that's possible. I've already stripped them down to just
> pipe and fins.

WHOA!!

This is a Hydronic heating system. The water in those baseboard units
is under pressure. If the building has one central boiler, it could
be a *lot* of pressure.

There is no way that you can simply cut out a section without
lots of experience and preparation.

Second, as a condo unit owner, you don't have the legal right
to tamper with systems which may be part of the common property.

I don't mean to sound scolding, but you may be in way over your head...

Jim


Posted by deans@wdeans.com on July 23, 2005, 4:29 pm


Greetings,

What you want to do is easy.

a) cut off the water to hydronic heating system (make sure regular hot
water still works)
b) drain the water
c) cut the pipes

Hope this helps,
William

PS: There is an air-release valve on the corner of the baseboard itself
you can unscrew to drain the water if it makes life easier for you. If
someone gives you a hard time about violating their legal rights just
own up to it.



Posted by on July 24, 2005, 4:28 am


can you do this?,,, you'll need to have a mop and bucket, a wet shopvac
with a toilet or floor drain, all of your tools, and,,, a plumber. have
you had a plumber chesk the system to see if it works or leaks before
you tear it apart? you'll need to determine many answers before
starting...
is your hot water heat boiler separate from your hot drinking water? if
no then stop now because we don't want to destroy your hope for
completing this project.
are you prepared to shut off your water main if the cold water shutoff
refilling your boiler leaks? have you pretested that main to see if it
stops all water flow 100%? did you read up on refilling the system and
its air tank properly? are the water pressure gauges on the boiler and
its temperature gauge both working?
your building codes probably don't want water pipes in the exterior
wall cavities where they can freeze.
is your scheme of replacement heating btu's sufficient? will your plans
include adding insulation to all walls and ceilings and floors?
is this a monoflow system where there is actually a loop from which T
fittings divert part of the water up to a radiator then T back to the
loop? is this job an opportunity to add individual mechanical
thermostat controls at each radiator for mini-zone control?



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