Home Page link

How to upgrade outlets and switches

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
How to upgrade outlets and switches Richard M. Utter 05-15-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by RBM on May 15, 2006, 7:41 pm
The ground fault device and anything plugged into any outlets connected to
the load side of it, will cause the GFCI to trip if any leak of current to
ground occurs, regardless if the outlets are grounded. The GFCI does not
need a ground connected to it to function


> PipeDown wrote:
>
>> Use of a single GFCI or a GFCI breaker does not solve the problem of not
>> having a ground wire in the first place. If you use a GFCI receptacle
>> and connect several receptacles downsteam, you will get some GFCI
>> protection but not from current into ground (the ground tab on those will
>> still be open). Only at the GFCI receptacle itself do you get virtual
>> safety ground protection.
>
> I think I understand you. But just to be sure, are you saying that even
> without a ground wire connected to it the first GFCI receptacle would trip
> if an appliance plugged into it equipped with a three wire cord and plug
> developed internal leakage between hot and ground (or on the fancier GFCIs
> also between neutral and ground.), but that you don't get that level of
> protection on the downstream ones?
>
> I'd assume you wouldn't get that protection on the first receptical either
> if there was no ground wire connected to it. I can't see where a leakage
> current to ground would flow if there was no ground wire for it to flow
> through.
>
> If what you said assumed there WAS a ground wire to connect to the GFCI
> receptical then I agree with your statement, but that's prolly not what
> the OP has, unless he's lucky and the wall boxes are grounded, perhaps via
> the bare ground wire used in some of the old BX cables.
>
> <snipped>
>
> Jeff
>
> --
> Jeffry Wisnia
> (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> "Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
> into it."



PexSupply PEX Tools 468x60
Posted by Jeff Wisnia on May 15, 2006, 8:44 pm
RBM wrote:

> The ground fault device and anything plugged into any outlets connected to
> the load side of it, will cause the GFCI to trip if any leak of current to
> ground occurs, regardless if the outlets are grounded. The GFCI does not
> need a ground connected to it to function

Of course, but that's NOT what I asked.

I was talking about (internal fault) leakage to the safety ground lead
(chassis) oF an appliance with a three wire cord and plug. And, that
faulty appliance is plugged into a GFCI outlet which does not have a
ground wire run to it. i.e. an outlet which would require the little
label stuck on it warning that there was no safety ground there.

Take a look at Sam Goldwasser's diagrams and explain please how the GFCI
can sense internal leakage to the safety ground lead of the appliance if
the ground pin hole in the outlet isn't connected to anything.

http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm

Jeff


>
>
>
>>PipeDown wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Use of a single GFCI or a GFCI breaker does not solve the problem of not
>>>having a ground wire in the first place. If you use a GFCI receptacle
>>>and connect several receptacles downsteam, you will get some GFCI
>>>protection but not from current into ground (the ground tab on those will
>>>still be open). Only at the GFCI receptacle itself do you get virtual
>>>safety ground protection.
>>
>>I think I understand you. But just to be sure, are you saying that even
>>without a ground wire connected to it the first GFCI receptacle would trip
>>if an appliance plugged into it equipped with a three wire cord and plug
>>developed internal leakage between hot and ground (or on the fancier GFCIs
>>also between neutral and ground.), but that you don't get that level of
>>protection on the downstream ones?
>>
>>I'd assume you wouldn't get that protection on the first receptical either
>>if there was no ground wire connected to it. I can't see where a leakage
>>current to ground would flow if there was no ground wire for it to flow
>>through.
>>
>>If what you said assumed there WAS a ground wire to connect to the GFCI
>>receptical then I agree with your statement, but that's prolly not what
>>the OP has, unless he's lucky and the wall boxes are grounded, perhaps via
>>the bare ground wire used in some of the old BX cables.
>>
>><snipped>
>>
>>Jeff


--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
into it."

Posted by on May 15, 2006, 10:17 pm

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
> I was talking about (internal fault) leakage to the safety ground lead
> (chassis) oF an appliance with a three wire cord and plug. And, that
> faulty appliance is plugged into a GFCI outlet which does not have a
> ground wire run to it. i.e. an outlet which would require the little
> label stuck on it warning that there was no safety ground there.
>
> Take a look at Sam Goldwasser's diagrams and explain please how the GFCI
> can sense internal leakage to the safety ground lead of the appliance if
> the ground pin hole in the outlet isn't connected to anything.

The GFCI will not immediately sense if there is a leak to chassis
ground in a faulty appliance. However, the instant a person touches the
live chassis and completes a path to ground, the GFCI will trip,
preventing injury. A live chassis by itself isn't dangerous - only when
someone touches the chassis and gets shocked is it a problem, and a
GFCI outlet will protect against this.


Posted by RBM on May 15, 2006, 10:37 pm

Like the other post said, you don't have an imbalance until something or
someone creates the bridge to ground. Then the device trips




> RBM wrote:
>
>> The ground fault device and anything plugged into any outlets connected
>> to the load side of it, will cause the GFCI to trip if any leak of
>> current to ground occurs, regardless if the outlets are grounded. The
>> GFCI does not need a ground connected to it to function
>
> Of course, but that's NOT what I asked.
>
> I was talking about (internal fault) leakage to the safety ground lead
> (chassis) oF an appliance with a three wire cord and plug. And, that
> faulty appliance is plugged into a GFCI outlet which does not have a
> ground wire run to it. i.e. an outlet which would require the little label
> stuck on it warning that there was no safety ground there.
>
> Take a look at Sam Goldwasser's diagrams and explain please how the GFCI
> can sense internal leakage to the safety ground lead of the appliance if
> the ground pin hole in the outlet isn't connected to anything.
>
> http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm
>
> Jeff
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>>PipeDown wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Use of a single GFCI or a GFCI breaker does not solve the problem of not
>>>>having a ground wire in the first place. If you use a GFCI receptacle
>>>>and connect several receptacles downsteam, you will get some GFCI
>>>>protection but not from current into ground (the ground tab on those
>>>>will still be open). Only at the GFCI receptacle itself do you get
>>>>virtual safety ground protection.
>>>
>>>I think I understand you. But just to be sure, are you saying that even
>>>without a ground wire connected to it the first GFCI receptacle would
>>>trip if an appliance plugged into it equipped with a three wire cord and
>>>plug developed internal leakage between hot and ground (or on the fancier
>>>GFCIs also between neutral and ground.), but that you don't get that
>>>level of protection on the downstream ones?
>>>
>>>I'd assume you wouldn't get that protection on the first receptical
>>>either if there was no ground wire connected to it. I can't see where a
>>>leakage current to ground would flow if there was no ground wire for it
>>>to flow through.
>>>
>>>If what you said assumed there WAS a ground wire to connect to the GFCI
>>>receptical then I agree with your statement, but that's prolly not what
>>>the OP has, unless he's lucky and the wall boxes are grounded, perhaps
>>>via the bare ground wire used in some of the old BX cables.
>>>
>>><snipped>
>>>
>>>Jeff
>
>
> --
> Jeffry Wisnia
> (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> "Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
> into it."



Posted by Jeff Wisnia on May 15, 2006, 11:01 pm
RBM wrote:

> Like the other post said, you don't have an imbalance until something or
> someone creates the bridge to ground. Then the device trips

For the last time I'll say that I agree completely with all that. I
checked into this thread when I questioned this statement by PipeDown,
when he said:

********************

Use of a single GFCI or a GFCI breaker does not solve the problem of not
having a ground wire in the first place. If you use a GFCI receptacle
and connect several receptacles downsteam, you will get some GFCI
protection but not from current into ground (the ground tab on those
will still be open). Only at the GFCI receptacle itself do you get
virtual safety ground protection.

********************

If by "safety ground protection" PipeDown meant that the GFCI would trip
on an internal ground fault in an appliance I didn't believe it would
unless there was a ground lead connected to it.

As Goldwasser says:

**********************************

GFCIs and safety ground:

Despite the fact that a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) may be
installed in a 2 wire circuit, the GFCI does not create a safety ground.
In fact, shorting between the Hot and Ground holes in the GFCI outlet
will do absolutely nothing if the GFCI is not connected to a grounded
circuit (at least for the typical GFCI made by Leviton sold at hardware
stores and home centers). It will trip only if a fault occurs such that
current flows to a true ground. If the original circuit did not have a
safety ground, the third hole is not connected. What this means is that
an appliance with a 3 prong plug can develop a short between Hot and the
(supposedly) grounded case but the GFCI will not trip until someone
touches the case and an earth ground (e.g., water pipe, ground from some
other circuit, etc.) at the same time.

*********************************

I'll say no more on the subject.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
into it."

>
>
>
>
>
>>RBM wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The ground fault device and anything plugged into any outlets connected
>>>to the load side of it, will cause the GFCI to trip if any leak of
>>>current to ground occurs, regardless if the outlets are grounded. The
>>>GFCI does not need a ground connected to it to function
>>
>>Of course, but that's NOT what I asked.
>>
>>I was talking about (internal fault) leakage to the safety ground lead
>>(chassis) oF an appliance with a three wire cord and plug. And, that
>>faulty appliance is plugged into a GFCI outlet which does not have a
>>ground wire run to it. i.e. an outlet which would require the little label
>>stuck on it warning that there was no safety ground there.
>>
>>Take a look at Sam Goldwasser's diagrams and explain please how the GFCI
>>can sense internal leakage to the safety ground lead of the appliance if
>>the ground pin hole in the outlet isn't connected to anything.
>>
>>http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>PipeDown wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Use of a single GFCI or a GFCI breaker does not solve the problem of not
>>>>>having a ground wire in the first place. If you use a GFCI receptacle
>>>>>and connect several receptacles downsteam, you will get some GFCI
>>>>>protection but not from current into ground (the ground tab on those
>>>>>will still be open). Only at the GFCI receptacle itself do you get
>>>>>virtual safety ground protection.
>>>>
>>>>I think I understand you. But just to be sure, are you saying that even
>>>>without a ground wire connected to it the first GFCI receptacle would
>>>>trip if an appliance plugged into it equipped with a three wire cord and
>>>>plug developed internal leakage between hot and ground (or on the fancier
>>>>GFCIs also between neutral and ground.), but that you don't get that
>>>>level of protection on the downstream ones?
>>>>
>>>>I'd assume you wouldn't get that protection on the first receptical
>>>>either if there was no ground wire connected to it. I can't see where a
>>>>leakage current to ground would flow if there was no ground wire for it
>>>>to flow through.
>>>>
>>>>If what you said assumed there WAS a ground wire to connect to the GFCI
>>>>receptical then I agree with your statement, but that's prolly not what
>>>>the OP has, unless he's lucky and the wall boxes are grounded, perhaps
>>>>via the bare ground wire used in some of the old BX cables.
>>>>
>>>><snipped>
>>>>
>>>>Jeff
>>
>>
>>--
>>Jeffry Wisnia
>>(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
>>"Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
>>into it."
>
>
>

Page 2 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Outlets/switches lfush with new drywall? October 16, 2005, 3:19 pm
Cold Air in Light Switches and Electrical Outlets January 29, 2007, 5:33 pm
Cold Air in Light Switches and Electrical Outlets January 29, 2007, 5:41 pm
Electrical Switches/Outlets/Drwall/Fire Hazzard January 22, 2006, 11:38 am
Wiring Switches & Outlets 101 - Extremely Simple Pics April 23, 2008, 11:06 pm
do I need to upgrade to 200 amp service? October 31, 2007, 9:00 am
Parallel switches November 26, 2005, 4:02 pm
Gang switches December 13, 2005, 2:01 am
Three way switches with 12/2 wire? January 19, 2006, 1:12 pm
3 way dimmer switches January 15, 2007, 6:17 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap