How to use penetrating oil?

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 2, 2009, 11:14 am

On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...

>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>the
>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the
>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>> approach the current problem.
>> Ideas?

>
>
> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
> should work.
>
> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess
> in
> the feet with the oil.
>
> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels.
> The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>
> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>
> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model,
> you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and
> corroded from age and use.
>
>
> Colbyt
>
>
>

Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with a
soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and try
working the screws out tomorrow.

--

~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~

~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~

**********************************************************

Wayne Boatwright

Posted by Gordon Shumway on October 3, 2009, 10:09 pm

On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

>On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...

>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>the
>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the
>>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>> approach the current problem.
>>> Ideas?

>>
>>
>> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
>> should work.
>>
>> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess
>> in
>> the feet with the oil.
>>
>> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels.
>> The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>>
>> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>>
>> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model,
>> you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and
>> corroded from age and use.
>>
>>
>> Colbyt
>>
>>
>>

>Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with a
>soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and try
>working the screws out tomorrow.

I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill
into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?

Just a thought.

Gordon Shumway

One positive thing about 'Cash for Clunkers' is that
it took thousands of Obama bumper stickers off the road.

Posted by SteveB on October 3, 2009, 10:34 pm

> On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

>>On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...

>>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>>the
>>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the
>>>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>>> approach the current problem.
>>>> Ideas?
>>> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
>>> should work.
>>> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess
>>> in
>>> the feet with the oil.
>>> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels.
>>> The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>>> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>>> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model,
>>> you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and
>>> corroded from age and use.
>>> Colbyt

>>Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with a
>>soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and try
>>working the screws out tomorrow.

> I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill
> into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?
> Just a thought.
> Gordon Shumway

The first choice would be to get them to back out, whatever way works
without destroying the slot. Last resort, drill and EZ Out.

Steve

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 12:20 am

On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...

>> On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

>>>On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...
>>>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>>>the
>>>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only

the

>>>>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>>>> approach the current problem.
>>>>> Ideas?
>>>> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
>>>> should work.
>>>> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess
>>>> in
>>>> the feet with the oil.
>>>> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels.
>>>> The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>>>> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>>>> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model,
>>>> you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and
>>>> corroded from age and use.
>>>> Colbyt
>>>Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with

>>>soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and

try

>>>working the screws out tomorrow.

>> I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill
>> into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?
>> Just a thought.
>> Gordon Shumway

>
> The first choice would be to get them to back out, whatever way works
> without destroying the slot. Last resort, drill and EZ Out.
>
> Steve
>
>

Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can replace
the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be acceptable.
My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to get them out.

--

~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~

~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~

**********************************************************

Wayne Boatwright

Posted by Colbyt on October 4, 2009, 9:20 am

> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...
> Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can replace
> the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be acceptable.
> My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to get them out.

Wayne give the oil plenty of time to work.

Over a 6 month period treating it once or twice a month I freed up a rusted
chuck on a perfectly good old craftsman drill enough to get the bit out and
the rest was quick work. I still use that drill with the same chuck to mix
paint.

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