How to use penetrating oil?

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 9:27 am

On Sun 04 Oct 2009 06:20:31a, Colbyt told us...

>> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...
>> Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can
>> replace the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be
>> acceptable. My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to
>> get them out.

>
>
> Wayne give the oil plenty of time to work.
>
> Over a 6 month period treating it once or twice a month I freed up a
> rusted chuck on a perfectly good old craftsman drill enough to get the
> bit out and the rest was quick work. I still use that drill with the
> same chuck to mix paint.

Thanks for the tip, Colby. I'll work with this patiently.

--

~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~

~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~

**********************************************************

Wayne Boatwright

Posted by Oren on October 4, 2009, 5:47 pm

On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 13:27:34 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

>> Wayne give the oil plenty of time to work.
>>
>> Over a 6 month period treating it once or twice a month I freed up a
>> rusted chuck on a perfectly good old craftsman drill enough to get the
>> bit out and the rest was quick work. I still use that drill with the
>> same chuck to mix paint.

>Thanks for the tip, Colby. I'll work with this patiently.

I've found that the oil will penetrate the threads with a little
vibration. Soak it and give it a tap with a sacrificial screwdriver
-using a small hammer. Take all the time you need...

And " give the oil plenty of time to work."

It can take days to get a head bolt out of an outboard engine that is
froze and has been only in salt water :-/

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 6:08 pm

On Sun 04 Oct 2009 02:47:35p, Oren told us...

> On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 13:27:34 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
>

>>> Wayne give the oil plenty of time to work.
>>>
>>> Over a 6 month period treating it once or twice a month I freed up a
>>> rusted chuck on a perfectly good old craftsman drill enough to get the
>>> bit out and the rest was quick work. I still use that drill with the
>>> same chuck to mix paint.

>>Thanks for the tip, Colby. I'll work with this patiently.

>
> I've found that the oil will penetrate the threads with a little
> vibration. Soak it and give it a tap with a sacrificial screwdriver
> -using a small hammer. Take all the time you need...
>
> And " give the oil plenty of time to work."
>
> It can take days to get a head bolt out of an outboard engine that is
> froze and has been only in salt water :-/
>
>

Thanks, Oren. Good tips!

--

~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~

~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~

**********************************************************

Wayne Boatwright

Posted by Rudy on October 5, 2009, 12:37 am

> And " give the oil plenty of time to work."
> It can take days to get a head bolt out of an outboard engine that is
> froze and has been only in salt water :-/

I had to remove an alternator from my boat. It was down on the bottom of
the I/O engine and since the bilge had flooded, salt water got on the bolts.
I got one out OK but the lower one was "frozen" Big Time.

After much wrenching and almost totally rounding off the bolt head, I
decided to try the Penetrating Oil/ Tap Tap method.
I went down there each night after work, re-applied the oil and gave it a
few good raps with a hammer.
It took a week but finally I got it off.

Posted by SteveB on October 4, 2009, 10:40 am

> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...

>>> On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
>>>>On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...
>>>>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>>>>the
>>>>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>>>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>>>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only

> the

>>>>>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>>>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>>>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>>>>> approach the current problem.
>>>>>> Ideas?
>>>>> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
>>>>> should work.
>>>>> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess
>>>>> in
>>>>> the feet with the oil.
>>>>> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels.
>>>>> The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>>>>> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>>>>> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model,
>>>>> you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and
>>>>> corroded from age and use.
>>>>> Colbyt
>>>>Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with

> a

>>>>soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and

> try

>>>>working the screws out tomorrow.
>>> I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill
>>> into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?
>>> Just a thought.
>>> Gordon Shumway

>> The first choice would be to get them to back out, whatever way works
>> without destroying the slot. Last resort, drill and EZ Out.
>> Steve

> Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can replace
> the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be acceptable.
> My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to get them out.

Then I wouldn't start out by drilling, as Shumway suggested. Have you tried
a light impact driver yet after soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil?

Steve

Page 3 of 5 < 1 2 3 > last >>

Similar Threads	Posted
WD40 - Penetrating oil ?	March 31, 2006, 7:53 pm
penetrating primer ?	June 8, 2006, 3:11 pm

How to use penetrating oil? - Page 3