If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 10:57 am
On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:40:23a, SteveB told us...
>
>> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...
>>>> On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
>>>>>On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...
>>>>>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to
>>>>>>>replace the
>>>>>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base
>>>>>>> cover.
>>>>>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into
>>>>>>> the rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded.
>>>>>>> Only the screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>>>>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>>>>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>>>>>> approach the current problem.
>>>>>>> Ideas?
>>>>>> I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which
>>>>>> should work.
>>>>>> First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little
>>>>>> recess in
>>>>>> the feet with the oil.
>>>>>> Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper
>>>>>> towels. The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
>>>>>> 24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
>>>>>> Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial
>>>>>> model, you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just
>>>>>> stuck and corroded from age and use.
>>>>>> Colbyt
>>>>>Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store
>>>>>with a soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil
>>>>>today and try working the screws out tomorrow.
>>>> I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill
>>>> into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?
>>>> Just a thought.
>>>> Gordon Shumway
>>> The first choice would be to get them to back out, whatever way works
>>> without destroying the slot. Last resort, drill and EZ Out.
>>> Steve
>> Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can
>> replace the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be
>> acceptable. My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to
>> get them out.
>
> Then I wouldn't start out by drilling, as Shumway suggested. Have you
> tried a light impact driver yet after soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil?
>
> Steve
>
>
I haven't tried anything yet, Steve, as I'm still weighing my options. I
am, however, going to up end the mixer this afternoon and add the oil to
each foot so I can allow it to soak. I'm not plannin to drill, in any
case.
--
~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~
**********************************************************
Wayne Boatwright
|
|
Posted by SteveB on October 3, 2009, 8:53 pm
>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace the
> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
> rubber
> feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the screw
> heads
> are exposes (and recessed).
> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the threads
> were
> at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to approach the current
> problem.
> Ideas?
> TIA
I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the
threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a small
head on it. After that, I have no idea. Lots of those were aluminum or
aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with time to the point of
corroding into one mass.
Steve
|
|
Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 12:18 am
On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...
>
>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>the
>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the
>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>> approach the current problem.
>> Ideas?
>> TIA
>
> I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the
> threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a
> small head on it. After that, I have no idea. Lots of those were
> aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with time
> to the point of corroding into one mass.
>
> Steve
>
>
The base is made of cast iron. The screws must be some type of ferrous
metal, since they are rusted. I agree, turning it upside down and allowing
the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is probably my best
bet. The screws are small. I'd be afraid of using an impact driver.
That's an item I don't have anyway. Although maybe a few taps using a
blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it loose.
--
~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~
**********************************************************
Wayne Boatwright
|
|
Posted by SteveB on October 4, 2009, 10:43 am
> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...
>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>the
>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the
>>> screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>> approach the current problem.
>>> Ideas?
>>> TIA
>> I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the
>> threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a
>> small head on it. After that, I have no idea. Lots of those were
>> aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with time
>> to the point of corroding into one mass.
>> Steve
> The base is made of cast iron. The screws must be some type of ferrous
> metal, since they are rusted. I agree, turning it upside down and
> allowing
> the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is probably my
> best
> bet. The screws are small. I'd be afraid of using an impact driver.
> That's an item I don't have anyway. Although maybe a few taps using a
> blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it loose.
> --
Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a whole
screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips) and hit it
into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the crud in the slot and
get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
Steve
|
|
Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 10:58 am
On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:43:02a, SteveB told us...
>
>> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...
>>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace
>>>>the
>>>> power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
>>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
>>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only
>>>> the screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
>>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
>>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
>>>> approach the current problem.
>>>> Ideas?
>>>> TIA
>>> I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the
>>> threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a
>>> small head on it. After that, I have no idea. Lots of those were
>>> aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with time
>>> to the point of corroding into one mass.
>>> Steve
>> The base is made of cast iron. The screws must be some type of ferrous
>> metal, since they are rusted. I agree, turning it upside down and
>> allowing the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is
>> probably my best bet. The screws are small. I'd be afraid of using
>> an impact driver. That's an item I don't have anyway. Although maybe a
>> few taps using a blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it
>> loose.
>> --
>
> Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a whole
> screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips) and hit it
> into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the crud in the slot
> and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
>
> Steve
>
>
That sounds like a preferable way to try for the first time, and far less
destructive.
Thanks, Steve...
--
~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~
**********************************************************
Wayne Boatwright
|
Page 4 of 5 < 1 2 3 > last >>
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap