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How to use penetrating oil? Wayne Boatwright 10-01-2009
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Posted by Bob Villa on October 4, 2009, 11:25 am


wrote:
> On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:43:02a, SteveB told us...
> >> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...
> >>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replac=
e
> >>>>the
> >>>> power cord. =A0In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cov=
er.
> >>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the
> >>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. =A0Only
> >>>> the screw =A0heads are exposes (and recessed).
> >>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
> >>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
> >>>> approach the current problem.
> >>>> Ideas?
> >>>> TIA
> >>> I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the
> >>> threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a
> >>> small head on it. =A0After that, I have no idea. =A0Lots of those wer=
e
> >>> aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with tim=
e
> >>> to the point of corroding into one mass.
> >>> Steve
> >> The base is made of cast iron. =A0The screws must be some type of ferr=
ous
> >> metal, since they are rusted. =A0I agree, turning it upside down and
> >> allowing the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is
> >> probably my =A0best bet. =A0The screws are small. =A0I'd be afraid of =
using
> >> an impact driver. That's an item I don't have anyway. =A0Although mayb=
e a
> >> few taps using a blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it
> >> loose.
> >> --
> > Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a whole
> > screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips) and hit i=
t
> > into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the crud in the slo=
t
> > and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
> > Steve
> That sounds like a preferable way to try for the first time, and far less
> destructive.
> Thanks, Steve...
> --
> ~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 ~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~
> **********************************************************
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Wayne Boatwright

As other have said (in diverse ways): cut-off rubber feet; use
JBBlaster; tap light to medium blows; use Vise-Grips (loosen add oil,
tighten, repeat). Good Luck!

I imagine this is the old avocado color, baked enamel finished that
will last many lifetimes...you're lucky!

bob_v

Posted by Bob Villa on October 4, 2009, 11:52 am


> wrote:
> > On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:43:02a, SteveB told us...
> > >> On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...
ge
> > >>>>I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to repl=
ace
> > >>>>the
> > >>>> power cord. =A0In order to do so I need to remove the metal base c=
over.
> > >>>> The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into t=
he
> > >>>> rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. =A0On=
ly
> > >>>> the screw =A0heads are exposes (and recessed).
> > >>>> I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the
> > >>>> threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to
> > >>>> approach the current problem.
> > >>>> Ideas?
> > >>>> TIA
> > >>> I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into t=
he
> > >>> threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with=
a
> > >>> small head on it. =A0After that, I have no idea. =A0Lots of those w=
ere
> > >>> aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with t=
ime
> > >>> to the point of corroding into one mass.
> > >>> Steve
> > >> The base is made of cast iron. =A0The screws must be some type of fe=
rrous
> > >> metal, since they are rusted. =A0I agree, turning it upside down and
> > >> allowing the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is
> > >> probably my =A0best bet. =A0The screws are small. =A0I'd be afraid o=
f using
> > >> an impact driver. That's an item I don't have anyway. =A0Although ma=
ybe a
> > >> few taps using a blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it
> > >> loose.
> > >> --
> > > Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a who=
le
> > > screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips) and hit=
it
> > > into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the crud in the s=
lot
> > > and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
> > > Steve
> > That sounds like a preferable way to try for the first time, and far le=
ss
> > destructive.
> > Thanks, Steve...
> > --
> > ~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 ~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~
> > **********************************************************
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Wayne Boatwright
> As other have said (in diverse ways): cut-off rubber feet; use
> JBBlaster; tap light to medium blows; use Vise-Grips (loosen add oil,
> tighten, repeat). Good Luck!
> I imagine this is the old avocado color, baked enamel finished that
> will last many lifetimes...you're lucky!
> bob_v

The color was more a pastel green...I guess.

Posted by HeyBub on October 4, 2009, 12:45 pm


SteveB wrote:
> Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a
> whole screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips)
> and hit it into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the
> crud in the slot and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.

Special screwdrivers (punches) are made exactly for that. When you smack
them with a hammer, they turn slightly in the specified direction. Here's an
example:

Reversible Impact Driver Set
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481

This is just the thing for loosening the hold-down screw on the bathtub
drain strainer.



Posted by Wayne Boatwright on October 4, 2009, 1:29 pm


On Sun 04 Oct 2009 09:45:54a, HeyBub told us...

> SteveB wrote:
>> Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a
>> whole screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips)
>> and hit it into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the
>> crud in the slot and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
>
> Special screwdrivers (punches) are made exactly for that. When you smack
> them with a hammer, they turn slightly in the specified direction.
> Here's an example:
>
> Reversible Impact Driver Set
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481
>
> This is just the thing for loosening the hold-down screw on the bathtub
> drain strainer.

There's a Harbor Freight about 2 miles from here, and the price is cheap.
I'm going to pick up a set.

Thanks!

--

~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~

~~ A mind is a terrible thing to lose. ~~

**********************************************************

Wayne Boatwright


Posted by SteveB on October 4, 2009, 8:00 pm



> On Sun 04 Oct 2009 09:45:54a, HeyBub told us...
>> SteveB wrote:
>>> Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a
>>> whole screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips)
>>> and hit it into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the
>>> crud in the slot and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
>> Special screwdrivers (punches) are made exactly for that. When you smack
>> them with a hammer, they turn slightly in the specified direction.
>> Here's an example:
>> Reversible Impact Driver Set
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481
>> This is just the thing for loosening the hold-down screw on the bathtub
>> drain strainer.
> There's a Harbor Freight about 2 miles from here, and the price is cheap.
> I'm going to pick up a set.
> Thanks!

They are handy, and are about the only thing in the world that will take out
that 3/8" dia. x 1/4" long screw that is in the body of a starter motor.
Handy devices but you have to use them first before you gum up the threads
too bad. And a GOOD one is about $20. Others about $10. I use mine less
than one time a year, but when I need it, it works every time.

Steve



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