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How to wire up a RS-150BA-N Vacancy Sensor Switch with Nightlight and Manual On/Off

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How to wire up a RS-150BA-N Vacancy Sensor Switch with Nightlight and Manual On/Off OneSolution 10-04-2007
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Posted by OneSolution on October 4, 2007, 1:00 pm
On Thu, 4 Oct 2007 05:25:42 -0700, Long Ranger wrote:

> Going by the NEC, the white is the feed to the switch, and the black feeds
> the load. You are not allowed to use a white wire to carry the "hot" at the
> point of consumption.

On my way to work today, I finally got through to WattStopper Legrand at
+1-888-817-0571. The support guy answered immediately. Twice (I lost the
call when I moved from one cell to another).

The guy looked up the spec for the "RS-150BA-N Vacancy Sensor Switch with
Nightlight and Manual On/Off". What he told me was more in line with John
Grabowski than that above.

He said:
1. Generally when you have a white/black/bare in the wall box, the white is
the HOT wire (not the black!).

2. The switch will work with two wires but the night light won't light.

3. It should work fine with flourescent or incandescent, even with just two
of the four wires on the switch hooked up (white/black/red/green).

He specifically said to wire in this order:
1. Tie the ground (bare) wire in the wall to the green in the switch.
2. Tie the load (black) in the wall to the white wire in the switch
3. Tie the hot (white) in the wall to the black wire in the switch

I'll try it tonight when I get back from work. He said this isn't the
optimal confuration but only the night-light LED won't work.

It's too hard to connect the green (ground) wire to the bare wire as the
bare wire doesn't have any connection anywhere in the box. Do you think
that will matter if I don't connect the green wire (I think it's optional)?

Thanks for all your wonderful volunteer help!

Posted by Robert L Bass on October 4, 2007, 1:28 pm
"OneSolution" wrote:
>
> He said:
> 1. Generally when you have a white/black/bare in the wall box, the
> white is the HOT wire (not the black!).

At an outlet box it is generally exactly the opposite. Neutral is
white. Hot is black. Ground is green or bare. In a switch box the
white is often the unswitched hot and the black is switched hot
though some people reverse that.

> 2. The switch will work with two wires but the night light won't
> light.

That depends. In switches in my home the night light is wired across
the switch. If the light is on the night light is off and vice
versa. However, if the bulb goes out the night light doesn't work
either because the circuit is open.

No doubt the switches you're using are of a different design.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
941-925-8650
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>


Posted by ehsjr on October 4, 2007, 12:56 pm
OneSolution wrote:
> How can I wire this light switch that expects three wires but I have only
> two coming from my circular flourescent ceiling light?
>
> I bought the Legrand "WattStopper RS-150BA-N Vacancy Sensor Switch with
> Nightlight and Manual on/off" whose specifications say it's for a "single
> pole circuit", 120V/60hz, 1/6HP fan, 0-600 watt incandescent or flourescent
> light.
>
> The switch has four (4) wires labelled
> 1. black = hot
> 2. white = neutral
> 3. red = load
> 4. green = ground
>
> The instructions say
> a. Connect the green wire on the switch to bare wire ground (if any)
> b. Connect the white wire on the switch to the "neutral wire"
> c. Connect the black wire on the switch to the "power wire"
> d. Connect the red wire on the switch to the "load"
>
> The problem is the box in the wall has only two wires.
> 1. black
> 2. white
>
> The ground is optional so what I'm confused about is how to connect the
> white wire from the circuit. Do I connect it to the red wire or the white
> wire on the switch? There are no other wires in the brown plastic box.
>
> I keep calling the technical support number 888-817-0571 but it always says
> it's temporarily unavailable.
>
> Can you advise me how to wire black/white/red on the switch to black/white
> in the wall?

Your new sensor switch needs a hot and a neutral to power the
sensor circuitry in the switch. That takes 2 wires. In addition,
it switches a load on/off, so you need an additional wire from
the switch to the load. Finally, it needs a fourth wire if it is
to be grounded, as it should be.

Ignoring ground, you have only 2 wires, so your switch cannot
work in that location, unless you do some rewiring. Perhaps a
diagram will make this clear:

EXISTING CIRCUIT

Load J-box Switch box
---------- ----------
Hot -----|----------|-------------|-----+ |
| | | | |
| | | |> | |
| | | | |
Neutral -|--+ +--|-------------|--------+ |
| | | | | |
---------- ----------
| |
Light Fixture

Note that there is no neutral wire inside the switch junction
box. Therefore, your sensor switch does not get the power it
needs. Here's a diagram of what the wiring would need to look
like for your sensor switch to work:


Load J-box Switch box
---------- -------------
Hot -----|----------|-------------|-----+--+ |
| | | | | |
| +-------|-------------|-CKT-+ |> | |
| | | | | |
Neutral -|--+ +--|-------------|-----------+ |
| | | | | |
---------- -------------
| |
Light Fixture

With the wiring above, the sensor circuit (CKT in the diagram)
gets the hot and neutral connections it needs to operate.

There is another way that wiring can run. It does not apply
to your situation (because your power feed is to the junction
box with the light fixture), but I'll diagram it for reference:

Load J-box Switch box
---------- ----------
| | | +--------|--- Hot
| | | | |
| | | |> | |
| | | | |
| +-------|-------------|----+ |
| | | | |
| | +--|-------------|----------|--- Neutral
| | | | | |
---------- ----------
| |
Light Fixture

Note that in the diagram above 2 cables, each containing
a white wire, a black wire and a ground wire (ground wire
not shown) run into the junction box where the switch
is located. (In your case, you have only 1 cable.)
Power feed is to the switch box in the diagram above,
not to the fixture box as is the case with your existing
wiring.

Ed

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