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I just learned water heaters have an "anode" and its important

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I just learned water heaters have an "anode" and its important davidlaska 06-08-2007
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Posted by Bob F on June 11, 2007, 2:58 pm

>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
>> > lining has already failed somewhere?
>>
>> > most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
>> > never
>> > saw one in the middle of a tank.
>>
>> > so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by
>> > everything
>> > in
>> > the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.
>>
>> > then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone
>> > fails,
>> > noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
>> > disection...
>>
>> I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more
>> likely
>> that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
>> doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
>> and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
>> Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.
>>
>>
>>
>> > then finally the tank leaks.
>>
>> > tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
>> > buy
>> > one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
>> > tanks
>> > max.......
>>
>> > for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
>> > connection just isnt worth the risk.
>>
>> $10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it
>> > fails.
>>
>> > that way I pick the time place and cost.
>>
>> Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
>> leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep
>> an
>> eye out for the drips.
>>
>> Bob
>
> the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
> sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend,
> blizzard
> weather.
>
> the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible

Again, the major cause of failure is corrosion. The anode largely
prevents corrosion as the anode corrodes instead. I'm sure that almost
noone replaces anodes, so a few years after it dissappears, the water
heater fails.

There's a reason they put them in in the first place.

Bob

>



Special 468x60
Posted by on June 11, 2007, 7:55 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> > I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
> >> > lining has already failed somewhere?
>
> >> > most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
> >> > never
> >> > saw one in the middle of a tank.
>
> >> > so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by
> >> > everything
> >> > in
> >> > the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.
>
> >> > then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone
> >> > fails,
> >> > noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
> >> > disection...
>
> >> I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more
> >> likely
> >> that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
> >> doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
> >> and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
> >> Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.
>
> >> > then finally the tank leaks.
>
> >> > tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
> >> > buy
> >> > one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
> >> > tanks
> >> > max.......
>
> >> > for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
> >> > connection just isnt worth the risk.
>
> >> $10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.
>
> >> > Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it
> >> > fails.
>
> >> > that way I pick the time place and cost.
>
> >> Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
> >> leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep
> >> an
> >> eye out for the drips.
>
> >> Bob
>
> > the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
> > sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend,
> > blizzard
> > weather.
>
> > the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible
>
> Again, the major cause of failure is corrosion. The anode largely
> prevents corrosion as the anode corrodes instead. I'm sure that almost
> noone replaces anodes, so a few years after it dissappears, the water
> heater fails.
>
> There's a reason they put them in in the first place.
>
> Bob
>
>


The interesting question is whether checking and replacing the anode
beyond what the manufacturer put there really extends the life of the
tank and is worth it. One possibility is that making sure the anode
still has material left does significantly prolong the life. The
other possibility is that the anode size that is put there is
sufficient to prevent premature corrosion failure in most cases. By
that I mean it gets the tank to the service life where other failure
mechanisms become prevalent, so that even if you do replace it, it may
not buy you much more time, because the tank is likely to now fail
from another failure mode that the anode doesn't prevent.

But like I said in my previous post, I've seen lots of opinions on
this, but nothing really backed up with any test data or scientific
analysis.






>
> - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -



Posted by dpb on June 10, 2007, 4:50 pm
trader4@optonline.net wrote:
>> trad...@optonline.net wrote:
>>
>> ...
>>
>>> And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
>>> from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
>>> It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
>>> current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
>>> anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
>>> seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
>>> done. Has anyone else?
>> Far too many variables to be able to do any meaningful tests --
>> differences in tanks, anode design, water, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...
>>
>> Best one could do would be a test under a given set of controlled
>> conditions for a given tank design, but that would have virtually no
>> value outside that test environment...
>>
>> --
>
>
> If that were the case, then no one would be able to test and evaluate
> much of anything. Yet tests are routinely done on a wide variety of
> products, aren't they? Consumer Reports, for example, tests
> everything from dish washers to paint. And all those depend on a
> multitude of factors that can vary widely.
>
> If some simple tests showed that anode monitoring and replacement made
> a substantial difference in longevity in a few different tanks and
> environments, that would be a lot more substantial that it does work,
> as opposed to peoples opinions.

That's a different question than the one you asked which at least I
interpreted as for a given tank, and more importantly, a given
application (namely your own specific installation).

I think there's little doubt that sacrificial anodes have benefits in
general.

As for the wide-range applicability of CR tests and CR testing
protocols, don't get me started on them (again)... :(

--



Posted by on June 12, 2007, 12:09 am
wrote:

>I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
>bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
>enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
>Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
>the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
>like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
>looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
>clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
>buying new parts or heaters.

By the way, it's probably not aluminum, it's magnesuim. I once took
an old magnesium anode and filed off some dust. Then I put a torch to
the dust (outdoors in a safe place) and watched the fireworks. It
looked sort of like a sparkler.

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