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Posted by Bill Stock on October 22, 2006, 1:04 pm
I had a leak at the main shutoff valve coming into the house. It just seemed
to be leaking around the stem, but it was hard to tell. So I called the city
and $60 (this blows my mind) later they shut off my water. I went to Home
Depot to try and find a replacement stem, which was a futile effort. So I
ended up buying some new stem packing. This seems to have solved the
problem, as another $60 later I'm leak free. In hind sight, tightening the
packing nut might have solved my problem. But the Flax/graphite combo in the
packing nut seemed pretty dried out.
I'd like to have one of these on hand for future disasters, not to mention
my own T-Wrench (probably illegal). Given the speed with which the city
reacted to my original call, I'd hate to have water gushing into my
basement. (Finally the question) The valve is actually in an elbow that is
threaded on one end and slip on the other. The stem threads into the top of
the elbow. It is probably an 1.25" where it screws into the valve and only
has about 1/8" of thread. The valve is about 30 years old. What is this type
of valve called and who might the manufacturer be?
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Posted by Rich Greenberg on October 22, 2006, 1:14 pm
>I had a leak at the main shutoff valve coming into the house. It just seemed
>to be leaking around the stem, but it was hard to tell. So I called the city
>and $60 (this blows my mind) later they shut off my water. I went to Home
>Depot to try and find a replacement stem, which was a futile effort. So I
>ended up buying some new stem packing. This seems to have solved the
>problem, as another $60 later I'm leak free. In hind sight, tightening the
>packing nut might have solved my problem. But the Flax/graphite combo in the
>packing nut seemed pretty dried out.
>
>I'd like to have one of these on hand for future disasters, not to mention
>my own T-Wrench (probably illegal). Given the speed with which the city
See if HD has the t-wrench. If so, its probably legal. You can also
ask the city if you can do it yourself to avoid the $60 charge. In GA
(were I used to live), everybody had one, no problem.
My guess would be that its no problem for you to have the wrench and use
it.
--
Rich Greenberg N Ft Myers, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 239 543 1353
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67
Canines:Val, Red, Shasta & Casey (RIP), Red & Zero, Siberians Owner:Chinook-L
Retired at the beach Asst Owner:Sibernet-L
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Posted by Jay Steiner on October 22, 2006, 1:36 pm
Bill Stock wrote:
> I had a leak at the main shutoff valve coming into the house. It just seemed
> to be leaking around the stem, but it was hard to tell. So I called the city
> and $60 (this blows my mind) later they shut off my water. I went to Home
> Depot to try and find a replacement stem, which was a futile effort. So I
> ended up buying some new stem packing. This seems to have solved the
> problem, as another $60 later I'm leak free. In hind sight, tightening the
> packing nut might have solved my problem. But the Flax/graphite combo in the
> packing nut seemed pretty dried out.
>
> I'd like to have one of these on hand for future disasters, not to mention
> my own T-Wrench (probably illegal). Given the speed with which the city
> reacted to my original call, I'd hate to have water gushing into my
> basement. (Finally the question) The valve is actually in an elbow that is
> threaded on one end and slip on the other. The stem threads into the top of
> the elbow. It is probably an 1.25" where it screws into the valve and only
> has about 1/8" of thread. The valve is about 30 years old. What is this type
> of valve called and who might the manufacturer be?
It's hard to tell the type of valve from your description. It sounds like it is
not a ball valuve, which I would recommend replacing your main shut-off valve
(and any other shut-off valve that you care about) with a ball valve at your
next opportunity; they last a *long* time without going bad.
Regarding the outside shut off that the water department used, was it marked
above ground or have a visible cover to get to it? If my shut off inside the
house ever fails, or the run of pipe before the shut off ever fails, I'm at the
mercy of my water department to come out and *find* the shut off. For some
reason the shut offs (assuming it exists) in my 1960s era neighborhood are well
covered over. I'm very curious to know where it is, and I'd be willing to
install a cover so it can be accessed quickly if needed.
By the way, did the water department charge you another $60 turn the water back
on? Having your own wrench seems like a good idea, you should be able to find
them at a decent plumbing house.
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Posted by Rich Greenberg on October 22, 2006, 2:30 pm
>Bill Stock wrote:
[...]
>It's hard to tell the type of valve from your description. It sounds like it is
>not a ball valuve, which I would recommend replacing your main shut-off valve
>(and any other shut-off valve that you care about) with a ball valve at your
>next opportunity; they last a *long* time without going bad.
I concurr.
>Regarding the outside shut off that the water department used, was it marked
>above ground or have a visible cover to get to it? If my shut off inside the
>house ever fails, or the run of pipe before the shut off ever fails, I'm at the
>mercy of my water department to come out and *find* the shut off. For some
>reason the shut offs (assuming it exists) in my 1960s era neighborhood are well
>covered over. I'm very curious to know where it is, and I'd be willing to
>install a cover so it can be accessed quickly if needed.
Is your water metered? Do you know where the meter is? The shut-off
valve is USUALLY right next to the meter. If its the type which needs
the T-Handle wrench, it will appear (from above) to be a metal bar about
2-3 inches long and 1/4 wide. If you are in an area of hard freezes,
the valve itself may be several feet down, below the frost line. You
may have to do some searching.
>By the way, did the water department charge you another $60 turn the water back
>on? Having your own wrench seems like a good idea, you should be able to find
>them at a decent plumbing house.
Or at the borg.
--
Rich Greenberg N Ft Myers, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 239 543 1353
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67
Canines:Val, Red, Shasta & Casey (RIP), Red & Zero, Siberians Owner:Chinook-L
Retired at the beach Asst Owner:Sibernet-L
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Posted by Bill Stock on October 22, 2006, 3:57 pm
>>Bill Stock wrote:
>
> [...]
>
>>It's hard to tell the type of valve from your description. It sounds like
>>it is
>>not a ball valuve, which I would recommend replacing your main shut-off
>>valve
>>(and any other shut-off valve that you care about) with a ball valve at
>>your
>>next opportunity; they last a *long* time without going bad.
I was thinking about this after I sent the message, it's just an angle stop
like on a toilet shutoff. Only much bigger.
>>Regarding the outside shut off that the water department used, was it
>>marked
>>above ground or have a visible cover to get to it? If my shut off inside
>>the
>>house ever fails, or the run of pipe before the shut off ever fails, I'm
>>at the
>>mercy of my water department to come out and *find* the shut off. For
>>some
>>reason the shut offs (assuming it exists) in my 1960s era neighborhood are
>>well
>>covered over. I'm very curious to know where it is, and I'd be willing to
>>install a cover so it can be accessed quickly if needed.
>
> Is your water metered? Do you know where the meter is? The shut-off
> valve is USUALLY right next to the meter. If its the type which needs
> the T-Handle wrench, it will appear (from above) to be a metal bar about
> 2-3 inches long and 1/4 wide. If you are in an area of hard freezes,
> the valve itself may be several feet down, below the frost line. You
> may have to do some searching.
>
>>By the way, did the water department charge you another $60 turn the water
>>back
>>on? Having your own wrench seems like a good idea, you should be able to
>>find
>>them at a decent plumbing house.
Yes, they dinged me another $60 to turn it back on. I don't know if it's
$60 per trip or $60 per turn. LOL. So if my repair had leaked, would I be
out another $60 + $60. Fortunately I did not need to find out and the guy
did not wait around in any event.
Yes water is metered, but the shutoff valve is buried well below ground
(frost line) at the street and the meter is inside the house. I gather the
$60 is a deterrent to prevent DIY from annoying them, but you'd think they'd
waive it for emergencies.
Since I'm in Canada, it probably is illegal to DIY. Otherwise the guvermint
couldn't make a buck.
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