Installing 1/2' thick ceramic tile over oak floor

Posted by Mikepier on October 26, 2007, 9:42 am

show/hide quoted text
Looks as if this thread has changed topic, so I'll post this question
in a new post.

Posted by Jeff on October 26, 2007, 9:55 am

You may wish to consider .5" plywood and ditra, this stuff...
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
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Posted by Big_Jake on October 26, 2007, 9:28 pm

> > samurai wrote:
> > >> Mikepier wrote:
> > >>> A few weeks ago I asked if I could tile over oak floor area in my
> > >>> foyer 4'X15' and everyone suggested using some kind of underlayment.
> > >>> Recently my wife and I picked out a tile that is 1/2" thick and is 11
> > >>> 3/4" X 11 3/4". This tile looks a lot more beefy than ordinary tiles
> > >>> and of course costs twice as much. Now the problem is because it's
> > >>> 1/2" thick it would be a problem heightwise even if I used a 1/4"
> > >>> backerboard. So my question is will this tile be less likely to have
> > >>> problems if I go over the wood floor because it's so thick even if I
> > >>> screwed down the floor at every joist.
> > >>> By the way my combined subfloor and hardwood thickness is 1 1/2".
> > >> An 1-1/2 is a pretty thick sub-floor already without adding a 1/4"
> > >> board. If the oak floor is roughed up a bit and the joists are not
> > >> spaced too far apart and there's no flexing between them, you should be
> > >> fine. Someone mentioned sealing the sub-floor first, but I disagree. A
> > >> sealer may interfere with the adhesive you use for the tile.
> > > I would be hesitant to put over oak floor, as it may let loose or
> > > float(due to heat and humidity), and result in cracked grout. Oak
> > > floors are just nailed in, and will 'creak' over time. Ever had a
> > > squeeky wood floor?? Especially in a high traffic area, you want it
> > > strong as possible.
> > > To do it properly, remove the oak, then you'll have laths which are
> > > over the floor joists. Put 1/4 plywood, then a thinset, then 1/4"
> > > Wonderboard (or whatever to meet the desired other flooring height),
> > > then mortar and tile. Be sure to use screws to secure the Wonderboard
> > > throught to the joists.
> > > You could even remove the laths, then you could nearly match your
> > > existing flooring. You'd need minimum 1/2" plywood, and 1/2"
> > > Wonderboard.
> > > That would be a rock solid finish.
> > > samurai.
> > The OP said he was screwing the oak to the joists. Anyway, a 1/4"
> > Hardibacker over the oak would give it some density, however ripping it
> > out is overkill and 1/4" plywood is good for cabinet backs, not
> > sub-flooring. Also the Hardi or Wonderboard does not need to be screwed
> > to the joists. Ya want proper? Place an actual mortar bed over the
> > sub-floor for a tile base.- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> What if I used an anti-crack membrane over the oak floor?
See my post. That's exactly what I did over a maple floor.

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