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Posted by Meat Plow on April 26, 2007, 2:15 pm
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 17:29:39 +0000, Aardvark wrote:
> On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 13:14:23 -0400, Meat Plow wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 01:32:58 +0000, Aardvark wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 20:39:47 -0400, Meat Plow wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, sounds very reasonable. Basically shim up on the front and sides
>>>> to plumb and level then do some creative carpentry work for trim and
>>>> moulding. Trimming the back of the casing to fit flush with the inside
>>>> isn't an option since I'd be cutting off part of where the lockset anchors.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is the lock a Yale lock at eye level or a mortice lock at waist level or
>>> both? This knowledge can help.
>>
>> The latch and deadbolt are waist level. As it stands now, the inside of
>> the door case is level with the inside wall at the bottom as I've shimmed
>> the backside of the entire outside molding with a 1x1 strip to make up for
>> the 2x3 construction. Now plumb, the top of the backside of the door
>> casing is about 1.5 inches in the wall at the top. The backside of the
>> outer molding is 1.5 inches away from the top of the outside wall. The
>> bottom is flush. What I will do now is add another 1.5 inches to the
>> backside of the top portion of the outer molding and down maybe a few
>> inches on the sides of the backside of the front molding. This will give
>> the door (prehung) casing or frame greater stability by having contact
>> with the top of the front wall rather than just relying on anchoring it
>> from the sides. I'll also have to seal the sides of the molding which will
>> be harder to do since the house has a layer of aluminum siding atop the
>> original wood shingle style siding. This was basically my plan from the
>> beginning as there is really no other alternatives. I'll just have to be
>> creative with the inside wall and building the part of the door frame that
>> is inside of the wall flush with the surface of the inside wall. And
>> eventually when the house is resided next year, the sider will have to be
>> creative with the molding around the door.
>>
>
> Sounds like you've sort of done what I would've done. Any chance of a few
> pictures from different viewpoints? The outside, the inside, the latch and
> deadbolt?
Yes I can take some. I'll post back when and where they'll be.
> How many fixings have you used to install the doorset? Generally only 8
> are required on an external door casing, and I can't see any real need
> (unless you're a REAL belt and braces type of guy :-)) for a fixing in the
> head of the casing, especially if there's even the slightest of gaps
> between the casing head and the top of the opening.
Well there are three on each side. Those had to be built out approx 5
inches since the studs were recessed back that far. And the top and the
bottom of the casing will also be anchored. There also is a small twist
from left to right so it's going to be touchy shimming to get the casing
square. Fortunately this is a Pella door and the casing has small
temporary spacers installed around the inside casing to help keep
everything square from the door's perspective. I do appreciate your help.
I pretty much knew what had to be done from the beginning but it's always
nice to have confirmation from a 3rd party. Also it helps explain to my GF
why this is taking so long. And by the way, the original door was horribly
hard to open and close for good reason. My only fault and not that it
mattered since there wasn't a fix was that I forgot to check to see if the
wall was plumb. And the only fix there would have been to gut the wall and
rebuild it which isn't a viable option.
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