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Installing new bathroom exhaust fan

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Installing new bathroom exhaust fan djay 03-14-2008
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Posted by djay on March 14, 2008, 1:25 am
I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is 12
X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an opening
about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside that would
normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction (would need to
add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16". Anyway, I'm in a
quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.



It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One side
of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd still use
this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away from that
existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My goal is to just
cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to the other side of
the box (would cross between the headers of the two existing walls) and just
use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up through the "lip" with
mounting holes right through the existing drywall ceiling and into the old
existing joist and the newly install joist.

So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but for
the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this hole
until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in through
this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of course seal
in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4". Does that
sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the ceiling
drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it directly onto
the existing drywall.



What do you think?



TIA Djay





Posted by RBM on March 14, 2008, 7:12 am

> I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
> 12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
> opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
> that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
> (would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
> Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.
>
>
>
> It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
> install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
> just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
> and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One
> side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
> still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
> from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
> goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
> the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
> existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
> through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
> ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.
>
> So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
> larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
> for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this
> hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in
> through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of
> course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
> Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the
> ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
> directly onto the existing drywall.
>
>
>
> What do you think?
>
>
>
> TIA Djay

Sounds fine as long as there is an adjustment to make up for that half inch
of sheetrock. Otherwise the cover will be hanging down half inch from the
ceiling
>
>
>
>



Posted by John Grabowski on March 14, 2008, 7:18 am

> I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
> 12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
> opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
> that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
> (would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
> Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.
>
>
>
> It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
> install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want to
> just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the attic
> and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so). One
> side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
> still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
> from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
> goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
> the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
> existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
> through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
> ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.
>
> So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
> larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
> for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through this
> hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws in
> through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then of
> course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with 4".
> Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between the
> ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
> directly onto the existing drywall.
>


That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood bracing.
On the side of the fan housing that will be against the existing joist I
drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each corner. I use them to
screw the fan housing to the side of the joist. I also screw that bottom
lip in from underneath. That gets the housing up solid enough to where you
almost don't need the spanning brace, but I use it anyway.

The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid. You
will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket loosely on
the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes it easier to
slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can snug up the
screws after the spanner is in place.

When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket. Also
on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be almost the
full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat properly. The
finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.

Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that it
goes into.

I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.


Posted by djay on March 14, 2008, 9:45 am

>
>> I'm installing a Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan - approx fan box size is
>> 12 X 12 inches and it's replacing a POS nutone NOISE maker that has an
>> opening about 8 X 10. Panasonic has an approx 1" lip on the underside
>> that would normally screw right to ceiling joists for new construction
>> (would need to add a 2X4 to make the 12" span instead of the normal 16".
>> Anyway, I'm in a quandary as to how to correctly install this fan.
>>
>>
>>
>> It came with "joist spanners" that seem flimsy and possibly difficult to
>> install. Alternatively it has mounting screw holes in the lip. I want
>> to just cut out the old fan and expand the hole (I have been up in the
>> attic and inspected. the existing joist/electrical etc before doing so).
>> One side of the existing fan is already attached to a ceiling joist. I'd
>> still use this point as a starting point and expand the drywall hole away
>> from that existing joist accordingly to fit the new Panisonic box. My
>> goal is to just cut the hole, install an new spanner joist to snug up to
>> the other side of the box (would cross between the headers of the two
>> existing walls) and just use some longer pan head wood screws to screw up
>> through the "lip" with mounting holes right through the existing drywall
>> ceiling and into the old existing joist and the newly install joist.
>>
>> So in my example above after the new hole is cut into the drywall fit the
>> larger fan, and new joist installed (parallel to the existing joist but
>> for the other side of the fan hole). I'd push the new fan up through
>> this hole until the mounting lip rested on the ceiling. I'd put screws
>> in through this lip, up into the drywall and into the joist above. Then
>> of course seal in the fan from above and replace the 3" exhaust duct with
>> 4". Does that sound doable? I guess normally this lip would be between
>> the ceiling drywall and joist but I can't see a downside to installing it
>> directly onto the existing drywall.
>>
>
>
> That's usually how I do it, but without adding any additional wood
> bracing. On the side of the fan housing that will be against the existing
> joist I drill a screw hole about three quarters up near each corner. I
> use them to screw the fan housing to the side of the joist. I also screw
> that bottom lip in from underneath. That gets the housing up solid enough
> to where you almost don't need the spanning brace, but I use it anyway.
>
> The joist spanners that came with the Panasonic fan are quite solid. You
> will only need to install one. I usually attach the U bracket loosely on
> the side that does not have the duct connector. That makes it easier to
> slide the joist spanner in while up in the attic. You can snug up the
> screws after the spanner is in place.
>
> When cutting the hole in the ceiling, make a notch for the U bracket.
> Also on the side that the duct connector will attach the hole must be
> almost the full size of the lip so that the duct connector can seat
> properly. The finish trim is big enough to cover the larger opening.
>
> Don't forget to use the thumb screw to secure the duct connector to the
> housing. There is a little hole near the internal electrical plug that it
> goes into.
>
> I recommend that you use knee pads and a dust mask.

That's good advice and is pretty much exactly what I was going to do. I
like the idea of using the screws through the side of the housing... I may
do that if installing the extra wood brace becomes.... "challenging" :)

As the other poster mentioned, I put the plastic fan cover in place and it
looks like it will snug up to the ceiling without a gap. Has that been your
experience too?




Posted by hallerb@aol.com on March 14, 2008, 9:56 am
if you want real quiet install a remote fan, the motor fan goes at the
exhaust and the duct goes back to a plain louver in the bath..........

super quiet, all exhaust fans make noise espically as they age

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