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Subject Author Date
Insulate behind tub surround Justintime 02-21-2008
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Posted by Justintime on February 21, 2008, 2:22 pm
I recently bought a tub surround from a local store and need advice on
how to properly insulate behind the walls. I have one exterior facing
wall and the rest are interior. I plan on installing the surround
direct to stud with green board (actually purple) in the space above
the walls. There is a bedroom on the other side of the tubs back wall
that I would like to insulate against noise. I also don't want the
wall facing the exterior wall to be too cold to the touch. Any
suggestions would be appreciated. Also on a separate topic has anyone
install one of these surrounds direct to studs? Are decking screws or
nails preferred to install the walls.

Posted by Mamba on February 21, 2008, 3:39 pm
>I recently bought a tub surround from a local store and need advice on
> how to properly insulate behind the walls. I have one exterior facing
> wall and the rest are interior. I plan on installing the surround
> direct to stud with green board (actually purple) in the space above
> the walls. There is a bedroom on the other side of the tubs back wall
> that I would like to insulate against noise. I also don't want the
> wall facing the exterior wall to be too cold to the touch. Any
> suggestions would be appreciated. Also on a separate topic has anyone
> install one of these surrounds direct to studs? Are decking screws or
> nails preferred to install the walls.

I am no pro, but I did replace an existing bathtub with a 3-piece surround
shower a few years back. I used the insulation materials that were
available to me - a 1.5" layer of styrofoam (was found in interior wall)
plus a layer of fiberglass insulation (R11 if memory serves). On the
exterior wall (cold climate) I used R16 - again if memory serves.

I have no problems with sound - the side wall of the shower backs on to the
headboard wall of our bedroom, and very little noise is apparent.

FWIW, I would never use nails as a fastener for these units. Ours was
fiberglass, and a missed hammerstroke could crack it badly. I drilled and
put in stainless screws with padded washers. I only used a few, and the
unit is very stable and solid. I beleive ours was mounted over the wetrock
except where the tub had been.

Cheers
Gary



Posted by Oren on February 21, 2008, 4:01 pm

>FWIW, I would never use nails as a fastener for these units. Ours was
>fiberglass, and a missed hammerstroke could crack it badly. I drilled and
>put in stainless screws with padded washers. I only used a few, and the
>unit is very stable and solid.

I removed a seven year old fiberglass shower pan. Sheet rock screws
were initially used and failed, rusty and heads off.

Pre drill and used a stainless screw.

--
Oren

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 21, 2008, 4:32 pm
> >FWIW, I would never use nails as a fastener for these units. =EF=BF=BDOur=
s was
> >fiberglass, and a missed hammerstroke could crack it badly. =EF=BF=BDI dr=
illed and
> >put in stainless screws with padded washers. =EF=BF=BDI only used a few, =
and the
> >unit is very stable and solid.
>
> I removed a seven year old fiberglass shower pan. Sheet rock screws
> were initially used and failed, rusty and heads off.
>
> Pre drill and used a stainless screw.
>
> --
> Oren

fiberglass doesnt insdulate well when moist.

closed cell expanding foam is the best material R6 or better per inch.
plus it seals all the air leaks so it minimizes noise too

Posted by Oren on February 21, 2008, 5:53 pm
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:32:47 -0800 (PST), "hallerb@aol.com"

>> >FWIW, I would never use nails as a fastener for these units. ?Ours was
>> >fiberglass, and a missed hammerstroke could crack it badly. ?I drilled and
>> >put in stainless screws with padded washers. ?I only used a few, and the
>> >unit is very stable and solid.
>>
>> I removed a seven year old fiberglass shower pan. Sheet rock screws
>> were initially used and failed, rusty and heads off.
>>
>> Pre drill and used a stainless screw.
>>
>> --
>> Oren
>
>fiberglass doesnt insdulate well when moist.

fiberglass shower pan, not the wall insulation ...knock, knock!

>
>closed cell expanding foam is the best material R6 or better per inch.
>plus it seals all the air leaks so it minimizes noise too
--
Oren

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