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Posted by Eigenvector on November 17, 2006, 6:15 pm
>
> Eigenvector wrote:
>> None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
>> actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something),
>
> Standard distance is 16" on center. Some are 24", but its' rare.
>
>> rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
>> This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do
>> I
>> know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
>> bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
>> scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to
>> some
>> degree.
>
> if your spaces are irregular then you have to cut bats to fit. It's
> better to have it be a bit too large than too small so a certain amount
> of scrunching is inevitable. It is not ideal but nothing is,
> especially with regards to fiberglass bats.
>>
>> When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short
>> of
>> the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box,
>> and
>> continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
>> I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.
>
> I like to cut a notch slighty smaller than the box so it will fit
> around the box snugly. I then cut a small piece of glass to fit under
> the box. I size it to overlap the large piece and tear it in half to
> reduce the thickness.
>>
>> Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the
>> ceiling
>> to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
>> the stud where the Romex is routed?
>>
>> One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
>> scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
>> paper
>> is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
>> the best medium for a box cutter.
>
> I use a breakaway style utiliity knife. they can be found usually in
> the paint section and sometimes with the other utility knives. This
> style of knife can be extended and retracted. It gives you a nice long
> blade to work with, several inches. But the real trick for cutting
> insulation is to press the insulaton down at cut line down with a 2x4.
> This compresses it and makes it a lot easier to cut regardless of what
> type of knife you use.
>
> It helpful to have an improvised workbench. I use a hunk of plywood
> over sawhorses. Then you can cut straight through the glass to the
> plywood using the edge of the 2x4 as a guide for your knife. When
> measuring for fiberglass recognize that it is impossible to make a
> perfect cut. Recognizing that, shoot for having your piece be ever so
> slightly larger that needed. Then you can do a little scrunching if
> neccessary to be sure there are no gaps or cold spots. Avoidance of
> cold spots is a very big deal compared to a small amount of scrunching.
Thanks all for the responses. For the sounds of it I need to change my
knife, and maybe get a better work surface. I'll figure it out.
I've been trying to do everything while in place, but I guess once the wall
has been measured the rest can be done on a better work surface.
>
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