Home Page link

Insulation questions

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Insulation questions Jack 08-21-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Jack on August 21, 2006, 2:13 pm
Live in cold midwest - am getting ready to drywall portions of my house
that have been re-modeled. Wanted some recomendations on insulation
r-values. Contractor did the construction, but I am doing insulation
to save a few bucks..

Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.

Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall. What
R value should I go with.

Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?

Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate as
much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4 stud
walls)

Have to get this done in the next 48 hours, so any specialized products
are not an option, has to be off-the shelf from Lowes or HD (or simular)


Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on August 21, 2006, 2:21 pm

>
> Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.
>
> Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
> replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall. What
> R value should I go with.

Go with R-asmuchasyoucan The deciding factor will be the wall cavity. You
can only fit so much material in the space of a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. Only other
wayis to use a different mateial wiht a higher R value per inch.

>
> Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
> have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
> contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?

If both spaces are heated equally, it will make no real difference.


>
> Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate as
> much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4 stud
> walls)
>

R value has nothing to do with sound insulation. Thee are some materials
that are supposed to help though. Check out hte Owens-Corning web page for
what they offer.






Posted by Stubby on August 21, 2006, 2:46 pm
As important as R is air seal -- Tyvek or equivalent.

Jack wrote:
> Live in cold midwest - am getting ready to drywall portions of my house
> that have been re-modeled. Wanted some recomendations on insulation
> r-values. Contractor did the construction, but I am doing insulation
> to save a few bucks..
>
> Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.
>
> Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
> replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall. What
> R value should I go with.
>
> Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
> have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
> contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?
>
> Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate as
> much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4 stud
> walls)
>
> Have to get this done in the next 48 hours, so any specialized products
> are not an option, has to be off-the shelf from Lowes or HD (or simular)
>

Posted by Joseph Meehan on August 21, 2006, 4:13 pm
Jack wrote:
> Live in cold midwest - am getting ready to drywall portions of my
> house that have been re-modeled. Wanted some recomendations on
> insulation r-values. Contractor did the construction, but I am doing
> insulation to save a few bucks..
>
> Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.
>
> Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
> replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall.
> What R value should I go with.

The most that will fit in the cavity without compressing it.

>
> Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
> have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
> contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?

Since there should be little or no temperature difference R value is
meaningless.

>
> Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate
> as much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4
> stud walls)

I suggest adding an additional layer of drywall as that will do far more
good than stuffing standard insulation in there. The do make some sound
control insulation that will help some.

Even more important would be any air to air exchanges. For example you
don't want to use a shared air return as the sound will just travel through
it from room to room.

Laundries have a special issue with vibration. You want to isolate the
machinery from the structure with flexible materials.

You should be able to find a lot of ideas and maybe some products at:

http://www.soundproofing.org/

You also want to prevent any direct solid connections. Stagger wall
studs or use special isolation devices to keep the sound from traveling
through the wall (remember the two cans on a string (well wire actuarially
worked) you want to break the wire).

Filling in wall cavities with sound absorbing materials (accustical
fiberglass bats) will do a little.


>
> Have to get this done in the next 48 hours, so any specialized
> products are not an option, has to be off-the shelf from Lowes or HD
> (or simular)

The isolation stuff for the equipment can be done later.



--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit



Posted by Jay Stootzmann on August 21, 2006, 10:05 pm
First you need to air seal any potential avenues for air filtration
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_sealing

I used the Dow spray foam that comes in a can -- get closed cell type.

Then add as much insulation that you can without compressing the fiberglass.

Good luck.


> Live in cold midwest - am getting ready to drywall portions of my house
> that have been re-modeled. Wanted some recomendations on insulation
> r-values. Contractor did the construction, but I am doing insulation
> to save a few bucks..
>
> Going with fiberglass... for ease of instalation.. etc.
>
> Outside walls - currently has r-11 but most has come down.. so will be
> replacing the stuff that has been exposed by removal of drywall. What
> R value should I go with.
>
> Ceiling between 1st and 2nd floor - Had insulation between joists, I
> have to assume it was for noise. Most has come down during
> contruction, will be replacing it. What R value?
>
> Bedroom walls - build a second floor laundry, want to sound insulate as
> much as possible.. what r-value should I use in walls (regular 2x4 stud
> walls)
>
> Have to get this done in the next 48 hours, so any specialized products
> are not an option, has to be off-the shelf from Lowes or HD (or simular)
>



Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
insulation questions October 6, 2005, 6:26 pm
basement insulation questions December 11, 2005, 6:51 pm
attic insulation questions March 1, 2007, 5:03 pm
Attic insulation questions November 13, 2008, 9:55 am
Finished Attic: No Insulation...Questions October 9, 2005, 9:00 am
Stupid pipe insulation questions July 6, 2007, 11:09 pm
Exterior Insulation Retrofit Questions October 4, 2008, 2:31 pm
metal roofing cost & insulation questions May 11, 2006, 7:30 pm
Alternatives to Frost King Insulation or Preferred Insulation for Door Frames, Etc February 4, 2007, 1:49 pm
Temporaire water into insulation could affect insulation and floor rafters? July 10, 2006, 11:03 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap