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Posted by CraigT on June 28, 2006, 7:02 pm
On the texture issue I usually spot prime with 1/2 nap roller which really
puts a pebble grain to the new work which is undoubtedly smoother than the
rest of the wall.
BTW-Benjamin Moore makes great paint. (So do others).
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> Actually I probably didnt word my priming question correctly....what I
> actually do is prime everything Im painting, regardless of if its
> patched or not. But maybe spot-priming (or extra-coating with color)
> is the way to go.
>
> The room is going from white to dark beige, as such I plan on getting
> tinted primer, and might end up priming all of the walls just because
> of that. On the other hand, spot-priming the patches and 2 coats of
> color might end up with the same result.
>
> Not really worried about $$$, but Im estimating 2.5 gallons or so of
> color for one coat, so I didnt want to have to buy the same amount
> (give or take) of primer if its not absolutely necessary. Spot priming
> might be the way to go, either with primer or just finish paint first.
>
> Thanks!
> -Chris
>
> barry@sme-online.com wrote:
>> charry@gmail.com wrote:
>> > About to repaint a large living room, and had a couple questions.
>> >
>> > 1. Is priming necessary? Ive done some patching on the walls (drywall
>> > nails popping out mostly), but my biggest pet peeve is when I paint a
>> > wall and can see a different texture/color where I patched with drywall
>> > mud. Ive always assumed my best bet is to use a good primer first and
>> > then put color on top of that, but I figured Id ask here (the room is
>> > big enough that saving $$$ on primer is a decent chunk of $$$). As an
>> > alternative to priming, would 2 coats of color suffice? I normally
>> > prime and then do 2 coats of color on top of that, but Ive never
>> > painted a room this large in our house before.
>>
>> Seems you've answered it- yes. Suggestions: use screws near the popped
>> nails, and just hammer the popped nails below the paper. Keep coats of
>> mud thin, and minimize any scratching with sanding. How much primer you
>> gonna use to cover a few screws and nails? I'd spot with the finish
>> paint. (You don't mention important stuff like how different the new
>> color is from the existing.) You don't do this often, and seem to want
>> to get it right, so it's gonna take a chunk of $$$. Enjoy it.
>>
>> > 1a. Is there any good way to texture the patches like the rest of the
>> > wall? That might eliminate needing the priming step I think.
>>
>> Okay- what is the rest of the wall like? Seems if you just need to
>> cover a few screws and nails, you'd have extremely little total area of
>> patches. Maybe you need to focus on limiting that? And maybe on the
>> general prep. Mudded patches are always going to absorb paint MUCH more
>> than any painted surface. So spot them.
>>
>> > 2. Any suggestions on paint brand? The last few painting projects Ive
>> > been using SW SuperPaint, and I like it alot. The wife found a color
>> > for this room on Benjamin Moores site, so Im debating trying out their
>> > products or just having SW match the color. If BM is the better route,
>> > does anyone have insight on their product lines? Regal, Moorcraft,
>> > etc. Help with their primers (if its necessary to prime) would be
>> > appreciated too. Google returned some older results, I figure by now
>> > opinions may have changed since 2003 or 2004.
>>
>> I'd check Consumer Reports and such for ratings, and use that info to
>> help shopping for what you end up using. All brands have differing
>> product lines, so sweeping statements are meaningless. If the color is
>> much of a change, I'd think about a tinted primer coat before the
>> finish.
>>
>> J
>
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