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Keeping front door closed

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Keeping front door closed Charlie S. 11-29-2007
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Posted by Norminn on November 29, 2007, 4:10 pm
Charlie S. wrote:

>Have a wooden front door that has warped with age. Doesn't stay closed.
>Have tried putting insulation strips to keep it shut. Still swings open.
>If I put too much insulation it is too difficult to close.
>
>Can't seem to find the right balance of friction. I know the door is most
>likely not set right, but don't have the expertise to re-hang hinges. Any
>other suggestions?
>
>
>
>
I've read a few other posts, and have one concern. If the door is truly
warped, adjusting hinges might do more harm than good. I'm curious as
to what type of door, whether solid, panel, hollow, etc. Also, have you
taken a straight edge to determine how deeply it is warped and in what
direction - bowed top and bottom or side to side? Door has finish on it
or plain unfinished wood?

Posted by Charlie S. on November 29, 2007, 8:35 pm
Just about everyone said something that was applicable and/or helpful.
Thanks!

FWIW: Yesterday, we replaced all the thick weather-stripping around the door
and replaced it with an external wood/weather-strip molding. The door opens
much easier now and seems to be pretty well insulated.

There are two locks on this door. One is a lower doorknob lock with key
entrance on one side and a simple common twist mechanism in the middle of
the doorknob. You normally see this type of lock on bathroom doors
(sometimes without the key I think?). The top lock is a simple deadbolt
lock with key on the outside. That's the one we actively use.

Upon further examination I realize what may be the prime culprit might be.
And that is a lack of strikeplate for the bottom lock.

We had taken the strikeplate out years ago because it would mysteriously
lock even though we didn't turn it from horizontal to vertical. I guess
just closing the door repeatedly caused enough vibration to set the twist
mechanism in motion. We also backfilled the hole and didn't cause much
problem because we seldom used the door. However, over the past 3 years
we've used it quite a bit. Even with all the insulation it would open even
with the lightest breeze. (Providing the deadbolt wasn't used.)

There appears to be plenty of room to make a new hole and put a strikeplate
back in. This doesn't solve the second problem of the lock becoming engaged
through repeated door openings and closings.

I guess I could use some sort of adhesive/glue to keep it from turning. I'm
not sure what I would use on metal. Any other ideas on how to keep this
lock from engaging. (Don't want to use the lock as we have the deadbolt
above anyways.)

Also, what tool might I use to make a new hole for the strike plate area?
There is some sort of filler in there now.

Thanks for all you help.



> Charlie S. wrote:
>
>>Have a wooden front door that has warped with age. Doesn't stay closed.
>>Have tried putting insulation strips to keep it shut. Still swings open.
>>If I put too much insulation it is too difficult to close.
>>
>>Can't seem to find the right balance of friction. I know the door is most
>>likely not set right, but don't have the expertise to re-hang hinges. Any
>>other suggestions?
>>
>>
> I've read a few other posts, and have one concern. If the door is truly
> warped, adjusting hinges might do more harm than good. I'm curious as to
> what type of door, whether solid, panel, hollow, etc. Also, have you
> taken a straight edge to determine how deeply it is warped and in what
> direction - bowed top and bottom or side to side? Door has finish on it
> or plain unfinished wood?



Posted by Bob M. on November 30, 2007, 1:18 am
>
> There appears to be plenty of room to make a new hole and put a
> strikeplate back in. This doesn't solve the second problem of the lock
> becoming engaged through repeated door openings and closings.

Get a decent lock. Yours is cheap and/or worn out.


Posted by SteveB on November 30, 2007, 4:47 am

>>
>> There appears to be plenty of room to make a new hole and put a
>> strikeplate back in. This doesn't solve the second problem of the lock
>> becoming engaged through repeated door openings and closings.
>
> Get a decent lock. Yours is cheap and/or worn out.

Get a Schlage. Don't mess with the cheapos like Kwikset, or you will be
right back doing the same thing in a couple of years.

Steve



Posted by Charlie S. on November 30, 2007, 6:57 am

>>>
>>> There appears to be plenty of room to make a new hole and put a
>>> strikeplate back in. This doesn't solve the second problem of the lock
>>> becoming engaged through repeated door openings and closings.
>>
>> Get a decent lock. Yours is cheap and/or worn out.
>
> Get a Schlage. Don't mess with the cheapos like Kwikset, or you will be
> right back doing the same thing in a couple of years.
>
> Steve

Thanks, will buy a quality lock. I'll look for the Schlage brand.

I bought a Dremel Rotary tool about 2 months ago. I haven't used it yet.
Could I use this to drill a hole behind the strikeplate. (I have filler in
there now as I covered it up years ago.) I know I could use a drill or any
chisel type tool. Just looking for an easy way to do it.



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