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Kenmore Dryer: Heating Element is Perfect - but No Heat.

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Kenmore Dryer: Heating Element is Perfect - but No Heat. silenceseeker2003@yahoo.com 11-10-2007
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Posted by silenceseeker2003@yahoo.com on November 10, 2007, 8:06 pm
I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
element, belt, support rollers, motor).

It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
program) won't progress either.

I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
replacement so that I can order it?

Thanks!
Sam


Posted by BobK207 on November 10, 2007, 8:55 pm
On Nov 10, 5:06 pm, "silenceseeker2...@yahoo.com"
> I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
> replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
> element, belt, support rollers, motor).
>
> It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
> which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
> heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
> program) won't progress either.
>
> I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
> and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).
>
> I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
> *didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
> to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
> control mechanism (or themocouple?).
>
> My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
> replacement so that I can order it?
>
> Thanks!
> Sam

Sam-

Since you've already replaced a bunch of parts & are now getting no
heat .....

I'm thinking its one of the heating element control thermostats, there
are a couple and anyone if it fails open will kill the heating
circuit.

like.....
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2821&PPStack=1

the way to tell if they're bad is to take a look of them, if they
look cooked they probaly are.

You can remove the wiring & check resistance.

I order from

www.repairclinic.com

they have a trouble shooting help that works pretty

cheers
Bob



Posted by Tony Hwang on November 10, 2007, 9:13 pm
silenceseeker2003@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
> replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
> element, belt, support rollers, motor).
>
> It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
> which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
> heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
> program) won't progress either.
>
> I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
> and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).
>
> I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
> *didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
> to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
> control mechanism (or themocouple?).
>
> My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
> replacement so that I can order it?
>
> Thanks!
> Sam
>
Hi,
Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
from heating element towards the power source.
Good luck,

Posted by silenceseeker2003@yahoo.com on November 11, 2007, 4:45 pm
> Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
> step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
> may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
> from heating element towards the power source.

Thank you all for your answers. I followed Tony's advice and with an
ohm meter I verified:
1. Heating element - ~10 ohms (good)
2. THERMOSTAT 250 DEGREE F (P/N 3390291) - 0 ohms (good).
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

I believe that when removed from the system, at room temperature, the
THERMAL CUT-OFF part should show 0 ohms - and thus this is the
defective part.

Am I right?

Thanks,
Sam


Posted by BobK207 on November 11, 2007, 8:45 pm
On Nov 11, 1:45 pm, "silenceseeker2...@yahoo.com"
>
> > Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
> > step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
> > may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
> > from heating element towards the power source.
>
> Thank you all for your answers. I followed Tony's advice and with an
> ohm meter I verified:
> 1. Heating element - ~10 ohms (good)
> 2. THERMOSTAT 250 DEGREE F (P/N 3390291) - 0 ohms (good).
> 3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!
>
> I believe that when removed from the system, at room temperature, the
> THERMAL CUT-OFF part should show 0 ohms - and thus this is the
> defective part.
>
> Am I right?
>
> Thanks,
> Sam

Sam-

Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?

cheers
Bob


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