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Posted by Paul Michaels on October 23, 2008, 2:53 pm
This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.
I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.
I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.
Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! Good luck.
Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on October 23, 2008, 3:54 pm
Thanks for the web page and photos. Many repairs are something simple, as
you have found. Very well done, sir.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.
I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.
I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.
Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! Good luck.
Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on October 23, 2008, 4:06 pm
* Probably the big plug was dirty. You cleaned it, and now it can flow
electric.
* I don't like Sears. I used to work for them, and didn't like what I saw.
I also don't like the way they make off-spec parts. Sears products often
can't use the usual repair parts by the brands that made the whatever.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.
I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.
I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.
Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! Good luck.
Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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Posted by RBM on October 23, 2008, 5:06 pm
> This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
> our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
> I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
> likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
> getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
> still working on the oven control unit.
> I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
> connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
> range started working properly again.
> I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
> help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
> their range.
> Here's the photo album -
>
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
> Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
> begin! Good luck.
> Cheers,
> Paul Michaels
> Ft. Lauderdale, FL
You did a very fine job on the site. It is an excellent guide for
determining the locations to look for loose or open connections. I only have
one problem, you never found the smoking gun. If you don't find the
definitive cause and repair it, you can bet it will return. Your pictures
are very clear, and make it apparent where the problem is. The problem is
inside the 50 amp range receptacle, which is what caused the burn on the
prong of the male cord set. At this point, the internal, non serviceable
connection of that part of the outlet is still bad, and unless you replace
the outlet, you can bet the problem will reoccur
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Posted by John Grabowski on October 23, 2008, 6:20 pm
>> This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
>> our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
>> I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
>> likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
>> getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
>> still working on the oven control unit.
>> I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
>> connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
>> range started working properly again.
>> I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
>> help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
>> their range.
>> Here's the photo album -
>>
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
>> Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
>> begin! Good luck.
>> Cheers,
>> Paul Michaels
>> Ft. Lauderdale, FL
> You did a very fine job on the site. It is an excellent guide for
> determining the locations to look for loose or open connections. I only
> have one problem, you never found the smoking gun. If you don't find the
> definitive cause and repair it, you can bet it will return. Your pictures
> are very clear, and make it apparent where the problem is. The problem is
> inside the 50 amp range receptacle, which is what caused the burn on the
> prong of the male cord set. At this point, the internal, non serviceable
> connection of that part of the outlet is still bad, and unless you replace
> the outlet, you can bet the problem will reoccur
I agree. It appears that there was no other apparent evidence to suggest
that the problem was anywhere else but in the receptacle. I think that
replacing the receptacle will be good for the long term. Incidentally I
noticed that there was no connector or bushing on the opening where the cord
enters the stove. You should have a connector there to provide strain
relief and more importantly to shield the cord from sharp metal edges.
I applaud you on your thoroughness and safety concerns during the process
and I thank you for taking the time to take pictures so that others may
learn from your experience.
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> our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
> I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
> likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
> getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
> still working on the oven control unit.
> I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
> connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
> range started working properly again.
> I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
> help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
> their range.
> Here's the photo album -
>