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Posted by Malcolm Hoar on September 13, 2006, 3:50 pm
My kitchen cabinets are about 15 years old. The frames and doors
are solid wood (oak?) although the end panels appear to be veneered
plywood. They were apparently finished with an oil-based poly and
do have an ambered appearance.
The doors are in pretty good shape -- a few have some grease marks
and water stains mainly along the top edge. In a few cases, the
old poly has flaked off.
The frames are structurally great but the finish is in poor shape
with a lot of flaking.
I'd like to give them a makeover but stripping or sanding the
entire surface area down to bare wood is daunting. Therefore,
I'm considering a hybrid approach and would welcome any comments
or suggestions.
Frames:
1. Clean to remove all grease
2. Sand to bare wood
3. Stain? A quick test (few square inches) suggests this may
not be necessary for a decent match. But perhaps it will
help the appearance and give a better bonding surface for
the poly?
4. Apply 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic Gloss
5. Lightly sand -- I'll probably use one of those scotchbright things
6. Apply 1 coat of Minwax Polycrylic Satin
Doors:
1. Use a "deglosser" product to clean/etch the surface
2. Apply 1 coat of Minwax Polycrylic Gloss
3. Lightly sand -- I'll probably use one of those scotchbright things
4. Apply 1 coat of Minwax Polycrylic Satin
An oil based poly may be slightly more durable but the Minwax
product seems almost as good and a *lot* more convenient.
Obviously, there's potential for a mismatch between the doors and
the frames. I can certainly live with that if it's minor.
Comments and suggestions much appreciated.
--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| malch@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
 
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Posted by dadiOH on September 13, 2006, 4:10 pm
Malcolm Hoar wrote:
> An oil based poly may be slightly more durable but the Minwax
> product seems almost as good and a *lot* more convenient.
You realize that Polycrylic isn't polyurethane (it's acrylic), yes?
You realize that polyurethane is available in a water base, yes?
Myself, I'd choose the polyurethane...
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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Posted by Malcolm Hoar on September 13, 2006, 4:24 pm
>Malcolm Hoar wrote:
>> An oil based poly may be slightly more durable but the Minwax
>> product seems almost as good and a *lot* more convenient.
>
>You realize that Polycrylic isn't polyurethane (it's acrylic), yes?
>You realize that polyurethane is available in a water base, yes?
Yes and yes.
>Myself, I'd choose the polyurethane...
Water or oil based?
I figure the Minwax Polycrylic will outlast the water based
polyurethane. It's likely not quite as durable as a good
quality oil based polyurethane. But it is more convenient.
I *think* the existing finish is oil based polyurethane but
I could be wrong about that. Another nice feature of the
Polycrylic is that it should be compatible with the existing
finish, whatever was actually used.
--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| malch@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
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Posted by Norminn on September 13, 2006, 4:56 pm
clipped
> I *think* the existing finish is oil based polyurethane but
> I could be wrong about that. Another nice feature of the
> Polycrylic is that it should be compatible with the existing
> finish, whatever was actually used.
>
Once dry and cured, it doesn't really matter unless the old finish was
just plain oil. Of course, if it is peeling the loose stuff has to go.
Clean, dry, free of dust.....
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Posted by Malcolm Hoar on September 13, 2006, 5:19 pm
>clipped
>> I *think* the existing finish is oil based polyurethane but
>> I could be wrong about that. Another nice feature of the
>> Polycrylic is that it should be compatible with the existing
>> finish, whatever was actually used.
>>
>Once dry and cured, it doesn't really matter unless the old finish was
>just plain oil. Of course, if it is peeling the loose stuff has to go.
> Clean, dry, free of dust.....
90% of the surface area is door (versus frame). However, 90% of
the peeling is on the frame.
So the doors are in pretty good shape -- just a touch-up job
here and there. The finish on the cabinet frames is in a fairly
sorry state.
Hence the thought of using different treatments for door .v.
frame.
--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| malch@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
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