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Posted by Joe on May 9, 2007, 2:30 pm
Jeff Dege wrote:
> I bought a post-war story-and-a-half about a year ago. It had some minor
> water damage, due to ice-dam roof leaks that are so typical of the
> design. A new roof was put on, about five years ago, and when I bought it
> the inspector said the interior was bone-dry. But the plaster ceilings
> have a few cracks and some sloppy patches, made more obvious by a poorly
> applied textured ceiling.
>
> I "fixed" one bedroom by scraping the popcorn, fixing the cracks with
> chisel, tape, and compound, sanding, priming, and painting. I'm not
> really happy with the result.
>
> I've been looking at the second bedroom, and considering my options. I'm
> leaning towards laminating with 1/4 drywall.
>
> The existing ceiling is built on rock lath, and it's solidly attached.
> I don't see reason why it should need to come down. The problems are only
> cosmetic. Beyond that, it's level and flat. I skimmed a laser-level over
> the surface, and aside from a bit of protrusion where the patch was done,
> it seems to be at least as straight as I could manage to get with firring
> strips.
>
> It seems to me that that the drywall would cover a multitude of sins, but
> that that lumpiness is the one it could not cover. Cracks and depressions
> would not force the drywall sheets from lying in plane, but a lump would.
> Not just force the drywall out of plane, but tend to pull the edge of the
> board so as to make an uneven joint.
>
> So I plan on sanding the patch down until it's in-plane again, and then
> rent a drywall lift and screw the panels into place. I'm anything but a
> fast worker, but I think I can manage to get eight panels in place on a
> single day's rental. Jointing I can take my time at.
>
> I have three main questions.
>
> 1: Is this a reasonable way of dealing with the problem? The existing
> plaster is firmly in place, it seems absurd to go through the work of
> tearing it out simply to replace it with a lower quality substitute like
> drywall.
>
> 2: What fasteners should I use? Drywall screws? Drywall nails?
> Something else? Through the plaster into the joists, of course, but how
> far apart? Should I add additional fasteners along the edges between the
> joists? In the interior of each panel, not along the joists?
>
> 3: How do I treat the corners? Run joint tape and compound along the
> valley?
>
> Help would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Crime is not only a complete disavowal of the social contract, but also
> a commandeering of the victim's person and liberty. If the individual's
> dignity lies in the fact that he is a moral agent engaging in actions of
> his own will, in free exchange with others, then crime always violates
> the victim's dignity. It is, in fact, an act of enslavement. Your wallet,
> your purse, or your car may not be worth your life, but your dignity is;
> and if it is not worth fighting for, it can hardly be said to exist.
> - Jeffrey Snyder
Given your situation, I would call a competent plastering contractor
and get an estimate for redoing previous patch work to a better
standard. For the inexperienced DIY person, ceiling work is the worst
possible introduction to the craft. Sure it will cost some $$ more,
but you will be far happier with the results. Remember that butt-end
drywall joints always protrude, and plastered surfaces do not, so
your preference for the better appearance needs to be taken into
account.
If you get rid of all the popcorn and texture, the pro repairs could
be cheaper. HTH
Joe
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