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Laying laminate floor throughout house -- multiple starting points?

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Laying laminate floor throughout house -- multiple starting points? Alex 08-12-2008
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Posted by Red Green on August 13, 2008, 9:05 pm



> Alex wrote:
>>> Alex wrote:
>>>> Hi...
>>>
>>>> We're about to lay laminate floating flooring throughout our house,
>>>> but given we'll be doing almost every room (except bathrooms),
>>>> there's no way we'll be able to have a single starting point. Is it
>>>> recommended to start a new row in each room then use a transition
>>>> piece at the door where the floors meet (for example hallway and
>>>> bedroom or kitchen and living room) or is there anyway to have the
>>>> floors move seamlessly throughout the house? I'm not sure what the
>>>> standard process is for this.
>>>
>>> The standard process OUGHT to be that which minimizes the work. I'd
>>> use a
>>> transition only if I had to do so or if it made the installation
>>> easier.
>>>
>>> There are four tools you'll need that you may not have considered:
>>> 1. A cheap table saw - there will be ripping.
>>> 2. A rubber mallet.
>>> 3. Ratchet
>>> clamphttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber
>>> =90416
>>>
>>> The last is useful because no matter how much you beat on some
>>> planks, they
>>> just refuse to snap together!
>>>
>>> I presume you'll be removing the baseboards (excellent opportunity
>>> to recondition them). (Hint: Don't drive the nails out from the
>>> backside: cut
>>> them off instead.) If so, you'll also need:
>>> 4. Tool for undercutting door jambs.
>>>
>>> A pneumatic brad-nailer is a god-send when re-installing the
>>> baseboards.
>>>
>>> Good luck on your project: Laminate flooring is kinda fun and you'll
>>> be
>>> tickled with the results. Downstream, laminate flooring is MUCH
>>> easier to
>>> keep clean than carpeting and a lot more durable.
>>>
>>> P.S.
>>> The plastic-impregnated laminates are okay for the kitchen and batch
>>> -
>>> they're virtually waterproof.
>>
>> Thanks for the reply and tips. I might just have to pick-up the
>> ratchet clamp from the local Harbor Freight, so great idea!
>>
>> Ideally I'd love to make the floors seamless, but with the way our
>> house is laid-out, I just don't see how we can do so since we'll have
>> to start a new row of planks in a couple of places... and given
>> they'll be coming from different directions, I just don't know how we
>> can make them seamlessly blend together without transition pieces.
>
> Laminate flooring is supposed to simulate wooden decking. Imagine what
> happens in a house with oak flooring as you move from one room to
> another and the floor rotates 90°.
>
> Vertigo.
>
> I'd try to keep the orientation the same, reserving transition pieces
> to transition from one floor type to that of a different type (i.e.:
> laminate to carpet or tile).
>
>
>>
>> Also, just curious to anyone why's laid a floating laminate floor, we
>> plan on having three of us working on it with one cutting and two
>> laying, and at about 750 square feet I'm guessing we can get done in
>> either one day or maybe one day plus a few hours into a second one.
>> It's basically a living room, kitchen/dining room, hallway, small
>> entry hallway, and one bedroom. We might hold-off on the trim until
>> the next day, but that I wouldn't think should take too long.
>>
>> Thanks for the advice..
>>
>
> "One [person] cutting" may be unnecessary as a full time job.
>
> A technique I found goes like this: Lay one course and cut the last
> plank to fit. The cut-off piece is the starter piece for the next
> course (the planks have to overlap, like laying bricks). This cut-off
> piece may not be suitable as a starter - it may be too short (less
> than about ten inches), so you start the next course with a full
> plank. So, then, the job is: a) lay a row (some minutes), b) cut to
> fit, c) lay another row, d) repeat.
>
> I'd remove the trim and put one person to reconditioning it. Fill in
> holes, sand, paint, sand, paint. Couple coats of enamel. That'll take
> a day in itself.
>
> You will have to undercut the door frames. This is straight-forward,
> but non-trivial. You've got what, five doors? Each will take up to a
> half-hour unless you have an expensive power tool. A Dremel won't do
> it. A jig-saw, circular saw, angle grinder, or other common thing
> won't work. You've got to cut the frame; you can't cut the laminate to
> fit. At a minimum, you'll need something similar to this:
>
> http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11101
>
> Even then, if you get frustrated you end up with busted knuckles!
> You'll also use a Dremel for the intricate massaging and L-shaped
> cuts. A wood rasp comes in handy.
>
> Have fun!
>
>

Another consideration is, with the laminate I had, it was recommended to
lay them lengthwise into the light of a room like brightest wall with
windows, patio door, etc. In other words, the end of the boards are at
the light source and you would be looking down the length of each piece.

Posted by HeyBub on August 14, 2008, 9:00 am


Red Green wrote:
>
> Another consideration is, with the laminate I had, it was recommended
> to lay them lengthwise into the light of a room like brightest wall
> with windows, patio door, etc. In other words, the end of the boards
> are at the light source and you would be looking down the length of
> each piece.

Maybe. I think the artsy-fartsy crowd would champion orienting the planks in
the same direction as the longest wall.

It all depends, I suspect, on the unique characteristics of each individual
room. But if you lay perpendicular to the longest wall, you will die of
Chastic Fibrosis (a disease usually found in foxes).



Posted by Red Green on August 14, 2008, 9:15 pm



> Red Green wrote:
>>
>> Another consideration is, with the laminate I had, it was recommended
>> to lay them lengthwise into the light of a room like brightest wall
>> with windows, patio door, etc. In other words, the end of the boards
>> are at the light source and you would be looking down the length of
>> each piece.
>
> Maybe. I think the artsy-fartsy crowd would champion orienting the
> planks in the same direction as the longest wall.
>
> It all depends, I suspect, on the unique characteristics of each
> individual room. But if you lay perpendicular to the longest wall, you
> will die of Chastic Fibrosis (a disease usually found in foxes).
>
>
>

Real artsy-fartsy's probably don't buy it at HD and install themself.
BTW, I call them La-dee-Da types. The etymology of either goes back to
those with their nose up their ass.


I suspect you don't mean Foxes as in Two Wild & Crazy Guys :-)

Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on August 12, 2008, 10:20 pm



> Alex wrote:
>> Hi...
>>
>> We're about to lay laminate floating flooring throughout our house,
>> but given we'll be doing almost every room (except bathrooms), there's
>> no way we'll be able to have a single starting point. Is it
>> recommended to start a new row in each room then use a transition
>> piece at the door where the floors meet (for example hallway and
>> bedroom or kitchen and living room) or is there anyway to have the
>> floors move seamlessly throughout the house? I'm not sure what the
>> standard process is for this.

Think ahead. In five, ten or thirty years you'll want to change or repair
one room. A transition strip makes that much easier than if the entire
house in interconnected. The boards may run in opposite directions also.

In addition to other tips mentioned, get a pair of knee pads. They make the
job much easier on the body.

I also recommend doing this while younger. I did my family room and hallway
five years ago. I'm converting a bedroom to a sewing room for my wife and I
started the floor last weekend. This time around I'm taking more and longer
breaks. The getting up and down is a real PITA. This 100 ft is taking
twice what 350 feet did back then



Posted by Red Green on August 12, 2008, 11:42 pm



> Alex wrote:
>> Hi...
>>
>> We're about to lay laminate floating flooring throughout our house,
>> but given we'll be doing almost every room (except bathrooms),
>> there's no way we'll be able to have a single starting point. Is it
>> recommended to start a new row in each room then use a transition
>> piece at the door where the floors meet (for example hallway and
>> bedroom or kitchen and living room) or is there anyway to have the
>> floors move seamlessly throughout the house? I'm not sure what the
>> standard process is for this.
>>
>
> The standard process OUGHT to be that which minimizes the work. I'd
> use a transition only if I had to do so or if it made the installation
> easier.
>
> There are four tools you'll need that you may not have considered:
> 1. A cheap table saw - there will be ripping.
> 2. A rubber mallet.
> 3. Ratchet clamp
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90416
>
> The last is useful because no matter how much you beat on some planks,
> they just refuse to snap together!
>
> I presume you'll be removing the baseboards (excellent opportunity to
> recondition them). (Hint: Don't drive the nails out from the backside:
> cut them off instead.) If so, you'll also need:
> 4. Tool for undercutting door jambs.
>
> A pneumatic brad-nailer is a god-send when re-installing the
> baseboards.
>
> Good luck on your project: Laminate flooring is kinda fun and you'll
> be tickled with the results. Downstream, laminate flooring is MUCH
> easier to keep clean than carpeting and a lot more durable.
>
> P.S.
> The plastic-impregnated laminates are okay for the kitchen and batch -
> they're virtually waterproof.
>
>

Get a pull bar or make one if you have the resources. Not sure if the HF
ones are any good. Lip may bend from hammering on it if gauge is light.
One I got from the Borg was good. Part of a kit.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97751
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96447

> 1. A cheap table saw - there will be ripping.

I lived without using that. Just used a jig saw. I would think you need a
taper jig if you use a table saw for ripping since walls are not going to
be straight, Heck, at some corners, the wall may even bow out from a
taper..

What I could not have lived without was the chop saw. Lesson I learned is
MAKE SURE you use a carbide tipped blade otherwise the saw blade will
blue smoke after about 10 cuts. Laminate I used had aluminum oxide used
in it's surface (better wear). Keep in mind Al Oxide is what's automotive
sandpaper used for metal.

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