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Posted by EXT on May 14, 2007, 5:17 pm
I still find it strange that your builder is allowed to install undersized
lintels and then lag them to a wooden header. In many areas masonry is NOT
allowed to be supported by wood only by other masonry or steel. If you have
a 3" angle iron supporting bricks that is lagged to a wooden header how does
that allow for the (approx.) 1" space that most codes mandate between the
bricks and the house sheathing? It certainly wouldn't allow much room to
support the bricks. This whole job sounds like a "rube goldberg"
installation. I wouldn't trust it to hold. A ton or two of bricks supported
overhead by a few lag bolts into a wooden beam. No way, in my mind.
>> Tell me if I am not reading it right: your lintel is only 3" high on the
>> vertical leg? If so THAT is your problem. I don't know how wide your
>> opening
>> is but for an 8 foot opening I would not use less than a 4" x 6" x 3/8"
>> thick angle iron. If your opening is 16 feet. you should be using an "I"
>> beam with a plate welded on the bottom to form a lip for the bricks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > This is an update to my previous post "Lentil Beam Above Garage is
>> > Bending". Since then, I've learn the correct spelling of lintel. I
>> > had some repairs done and still have a concern that it's not
>> > completely fixed. So, here's an overview of the issue and i'd
>> > appreciate any thoughts/comments/suggestions.
>>
>> > Problem: Started with a crack in the brick veneer (gable) above the
>> > garage door. After having a structural engineer look at the problem,
>> > he determined that the lintel was torking out and working away from
>> > the header, causing the bricks to actually move out a few mm and
>> > resulting in the large, growing crack. He figured that the builder
>> > did not put in lag bolts to attach the lintel to the header.
>>
>> > Fix:He recommended two things. First, to take some bricks out (every
>> > 6th brick) and go in and re-attach the lintel to the header with lag
>> > bolts. Second, he recommended building a secondary header up in the
>> > attic, behind the gable, with 1 1/8 inch plywood to attach all the
>> > studs to one another and take the pressure off of the center studs
>> > (where it was bending most) and distribute the weight to all the studs
>> > behind the gable. So, with a masonry's help, we jacked the lentil
>> > back up, and made the two recommended fixes. There actually were
>> > bolts attaching the lintel to the header, but they were relatively
>> > small and the holes were drilled below the centerline of the 3" angle
>> > iron. We put in much larger bolts nearer the top of the angle iron
>> > (lintel). When we let the jack out, the lintel barely moved.
>>
>> > My concern: Is that the brick veneer is not securely tied to the
>> > studs, therefore the work done in the attic of attaching all the studs
>> > to one another with overlapping plywood really won't affect the
>> > movement of the brick. Is that possible? Does the plywood work
>> > somehow increase the strength of my header? Any other issues/concerns
>> > you may have?- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> That's what my brick mason said too. Seems a bit small, but I called
> the city and the building Code is for the size of the header (like
> Wayne suggests below) and not for the lintel. However, there is no
> code for how large the lagger bolts should be, where they should be
> screwed in (not at the bottom of the verticle leg!!!) and how far you
> should span them. Thanks for your response!!!
>
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