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Posted by avid_hiker on August 31, 2006, 1:16 pm
On a load bearing wall that is between kitchen and livingroom, I was
thinking of taking off the drywall and making fixed shelving in its
place.
I was told I couldnt do this from a friend because it is load bearing
and the drywall gives the wall support. Is this a fact? I live in Mass.
Dunno of any codes. But Im sure I can make this shelving strong enough
or even stronger than any drywall.
Thanks,
Dean
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Posted by RicodJour on August 31, 2006, 1:36 pm
avid_hiker wrote:
> On a load bearing wall that is between kitchen and livingroom, I was
> thinking of taking off the drywall and making fixed shelving in its
> place.
>
> I was told I couldnt do this from a friend because it is load bearing
> and the drywall gives the wall support. Is this a fact? I live in Mass.
> Dunno of any codes. But Im sure I can make this shelving strong enough
> or even stronger than any drywall.
Everyone has an opinion and unfortunately your friend's is wrong. Of
course you can strip the wall, build shelves between and have a wall at
least as strong as one with drywall. It's rare that a house in a
non-hurricane or seismic area has shear walls on the interior - and
even if they were, they wouldn't use drywall for the shear strength.
Poke a couple of holes and find out before you start ripping off the
drywall.
BTW, make sure you address the electrical and possibly other
mechanicals in that wall. You can't leave the typical plastic covered
Romex wiring exposed so you'd have to either cover it with something
like Wiremold, rewire it with conduit or relocate the wiring.
R
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Posted by dpb on August 31, 2006, 2:05 pm
avid_hiker wrote:
> On a load bearing wall that is between kitchen and livingroom, I was
> thinking of taking off the drywall and making fixed shelving in its
> place.
>
> I was told I couldnt do this from a friend because it is load bearing
> and the drywall gives the wall support. Is this a fact? I live in Mass.
> Dunno of any codes. But Im sure I can make this shelving strong enough
> or even stronger than any drywall.
As rico says, you can certainly do so. Drywall does add lateral
support to minimize buckling so a covered wall is certainly stiffer
than an open, unbraced wall. An open wall w/o any facing would most
likely show some effects over time and in an area w/ either seismic or
high wind concerns be a potential weak point under lateral stress.
I'd say how much of a problem you have depends in large part on what
you intend in the end and how long (and how tall) a wall section you're
talking about removing the drywall from. If you simply place very
short shelves between existing studs, you could get by w/ only a
relatively short section on the ends w/ solid bracing as an end point
and use solid blocking in between at three or so levels and most likely
be adequate for a relatively short section of wall.
Once you start removing studs to get a longer shelf span, then you'll
need additional headers and support to transfer the load to the fewer
remaining studs or stud replacements. The longer the shelves, the more
of an issue, obviously. Same thing w/ the height of the wall as well
as it's length.
So in summary, while I'm sure it can be done, would need far more
information than is available here to have any real suggestions as to
precisely how to accomplish an (incompletely described as well)
objective...
If it were a really large area and an extensive span contemplated, it
might well be worth getting a professional opinion on the structural
details necessary to retain integrity. If it's 3 to 4 ft long, w/ a
couple of feet of wall remaining at either end and an standard 8'
ceiling, something on the order of a 2x6 double header and a doubled
end stud would undoubtedly suffice.
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Posted by avid_hiker on August 31, 2006, 2:23 pm
Here is a more detailed description of what I plan / or similar plan to
do:
I plan to take the drywall out on both sides of wall ( maybe 4-5 stud
lengths, therefore adding more light to both sides in the kitchen and
livingroom. I will keep the existing studs in place, build a support
latterally in between studs ( fixed, not floating ), and boxed shelving
in betwwen all, then dress it up on the outside of course with edging.
This shelving will basically be used for DVD's and books storage, maybe
candles on display.. No heavy articles.
On the kitchen side, next to the shelving that was hereby made, I was
going to take out some drywall leaving the livingroom side drywall
intact, maybe 2-3 stud lengths, and create more storage for canned
items. I was planning to add seperate cubbard doors to all levels made.
Thanks again,
Dean
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Posted by RicodJour on August 31, 2006, 3:51 pm
avid_hiker wrote:
> Here is a more detailed description of what I plan / or similar plan to
> do:
>
> I plan to take the drywall out on both sides of wall ( maybe 4-5 stud
> lengths, therefore adding more light to both sides in the kitchen and
> livingroom. I will keep the existing studs in place, build a support
> latterally in between studs ( fixed, not floating ), and boxed shelving
> in betwwen all, then dress it up on the outside of course with edging.
> This shelving will basically be used for DVD's and books storage, maybe
> candles on display.. No heavy articles.
>
> On the kitchen side, next to the shelving that was hereby made, I was
> going to take out some drywall leaving the livingroom side drywall
> intact, maybe 2-3 stud lengths, and create more storage for canned
> items. I was planning to add seperate cubbard doors to all levels made.
Replace the drywall with finished plywood where you'll need backs for
the shelving. That'll address any strength concerns.
My first choice would be to cut out those studs, install a header and
build plywood cabinets that wouldn't have the studs taking up space and
forcing the design. It would probably be only a little more work and
the cabinets/shelves would be easier to deal with.
R
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