Loose cabinet

	Loose cabinet

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Subject

Author

Date

Loose cabinet

Chris

01-25-2007

Re: Loose cabinet

jart ames

01-25-2007

Chris

Joseph Meehan

Chris

trader4

Chris

Norminn

Chris

Norminn

# Fred #

Chris

Norminn

If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options

Posted by on January 25, 2007, 8:31 am

> Joseph Meehan wrote:

> > Chris wrote:

> >> Hello,

> >> When I close the drawer on my cabinet, the whole thing shakes. It

> >> also seems that the cabinet is leaning forward as it's no longer

> >> flush with the wall.

> >> The cabinet sits between the stove and the fridge. It's just wide

> >> enough for a coffee maker and toaster.

> >> I emptied the cabinet and I can see two screws (Robinston). I pushed

> >> the cabinet so it was flush with the wall and tried to tighten the

> >> screws. The screws wouldn't tighten?!?

> >> Is there some trick at tightening the cabinet? I tried to google for

> >> it but I just seem to find articles about loose cabinet hinges - none

> >> talk about loose cabinets.

> >> Any information would be greatly appreciated.

> >> Thanks.

> > What exactly do you mean "The screws wouldn't tighten"? Do you mean

> > they turn but don't secure the cabinet any better, they don't turn at all,

> > the turn and the screws tighten buy it did not help?I mean the screws

wouldn't turn as if they were already as tight as they

> were going to get.

> > I would guess you could run a new screw or two into a stud back there.I

thought of this, but how can I be sure they the original screws are in a

> stud? If they were in a stud, how could the cabinet have moved?

> > However I would wonder about the bottom. The cabinet should have been

> > shimmed so it does not rock even if the floor is not level. It should not

> > need screws in the back it should be resting solid on the floor. You may

> > want to consider the bottom of it. You may need to remove and reset it.Ah,

I see. The kitchen floor is laminate (wood pattern). Around the bottom

> of the cabinet is this while trim-like wood. I'll remove that and see if I

> can reseat the cabinet.

> Thanks for the tips,

> --

> Chris- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

You can try to figure out where the studs are that are behind the
cabinet. Here in the US, studs are generally 16" on center. Lot of
times in a kitchen, you can find a reference one by taking the cover
plate off a nearby outlet. The box should be nailed to one side of a
stud.

Once you think you know where the stud should be, you can drill a pilot
hole through just the cabinet for a wood screw. I'd go about an inch
deep. If the drill doesn't hit air, you should be on a stud and can
then put in a wood screw, about 2 1/2 long should do. Also, as
suggested, make sure it's properly shimmed.

Posted by Chris on January 25, 2007, 10:41 am

trader4@optonline.net wrote:

>> Joseph Meehan wrote:

>> > Chris wrote:

>> >> Hello,

>> >> When I close the drawer on my cabinet, the whole thing shakes. It

>> >> also seems that the cabinet is leaning forward as it's no longer

>> >> flush with the wall.

>> >> The cabinet sits between the stove and the fridge. It's just wide

>> >> enough for a coffee maker and toaster.

>> >> I emptied the cabinet and I can see two screws (Robinston). I pushed

>> >> the cabinet so it was flush with the wall and tried to tighten the

>> >> screws. The screws wouldn't tighten?!?

>> >> Is there some trick at tightening the cabinet? I tried to google for

>> >> it but I just seem to find articles about loose cabinet hinges - none

>> >> talk about loose cabinets.

>> >> Any information would be greatly appreciated.

>> >> Thanks.

>> > What exactly do you mean "The screws wouldn't tighten"? Do you

>> > mean

>> > they turn but don't secure the cabinet any better, they don't turn at

>> > all, the turn and the screws tighten buy it did not help?I mean the

>> > screws wouldn't turn as if they were already as tight as they

>> were going to get.

>> > I would guess you could run a new screw or two into a stud back

>> > there.I thought of this, but how can I be sure they the original

>> > screws are in a

>> stud? If they were in a stud, how could the cabinet have moved?

>> > However I would wonder about the bottom. The cabinet should have

>> > been

>> > shimmed so it does not rock even if the floor is not level. It should

>> > not

>> > need screws in the back it should be resting solid on the floor. You

>> > may

>> > want to consider the bottom of it. You may need to remove and reset

>> > it.Ah, I see. The kitchen floor is laminate (wood pattern). Around the

>> > bottom

>> of the cabinet is this while trim-like wood. I'll remove that and see if

>> I can reseat the cabinet.

>> Thanks for the tips,

>> --

>> Chris- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

> You can try to figure out where the studs are that are behind the

> cabinet. Here in the US, studs are generally 16" on center. Lot of

> times in a kitchen, you can find a reference one by taking the cover

> plate off a nearby outlet. The box should be nailed to one side of a

> stud.

> Once you think you know where the stud should be, you can drill a pilot

> hole through just the cabinet for a wood screw. I'd go about an inch

> deep. If the drill doesn't hit air, you should be on a stud and can

> then put in a wood screw, about 2 1/2 long should do. Also, as

> suggested, make sure it's properly shimmed.

Thanks for the tip on finding the studs.

If I understand correctly, the cabinet should be flush against the wall
without using the screws. Once it is flush, I can then use the screws to
anchor it to the wall?

Thanks.

--
Chris

Posted by Norminn on January 25, 2007, 2:19 pm

clipped

> Thanks for the tip on finding the studs.

> If I understand correctly, the cabinet should be flush against the wall

> without using the screws. Once it is flush, I can then use the screws to

> anchor it to the wall?

> Thanks.

Walls can be quite uneven and not be noticed until something staight and
true is placed against them. If the base of the wall is a little
further out than the upper wall, then pushing the cabinet top might make
the cabinet tilt back a bit. A baseboard, if there is one behind the
cab., would also cause this. Don't have an electrical cord running
behind the cabinet, I hope? What kind of counter-top/backsplash is there?

Whether floor, wall, cabinet, or all three are lopsided, something needs
to be brought into alignment. A narrow base cabinet doesn't need much
to hold it in place.

Posted by Chris on January 26, 2007, 6:38 am

Norminn wrote:

> clipped

>> Thanks for the tip on finding the studs.

>> If I understand correctly, the cabinet should be flush against the wall

>> without using the screws. Once it is flush, I can then use the screws to

>> anchor it to the wall?

>> Thanks.

> Walls can be quite uneven and not be noticed until something staight and

> true is placed against them. If the base of the wall is a little

> further out than the upper wall, then pushing the cabinet top might make

> the cabinet tilt back a bit. A baseboard, if there is one behind the

> cab., would also cause this. Don't have an electrical cord running

> behind the cabinet, I hope? What kind of counter-top/backsplash is there?

> Whether floor, wall, cabinet, or all three are lopsided, something needs

> to be brought into alignment. A narrow base cabinet doesn't need much

> to hold it in place.

Turns out there is a small dip int the wall near the upper right hand corner
of the cabinet. So, the wall isn't even. It's an exterior wall.

There is a cut out whole where the cabinet sits. The cabinet sits a little
below the laminate flooring. The baseboard has been cut at the cabinet so
the cabinet resets "flush" with the wall.

Turned out that in order to secure the cabinet to the wall, the top would
need to be pushed back causing it to be a little uneven. According to my
level, just slightly uneven as only the tip of the bubble was crossing the
line. I used some old laminate that I found under the cabinet to help
secure the base.

I used a few more screws; spread out over the stud. The cabinet seems more
stable and secure now.

Thanks for the advice everyone

--
Chris

Posted by Norminn on January 25, 2007, 2:13 pm

Chris wrote:

> Joseph Meehan wrote:

>>Chris wrote:

>>>Hello,

>>>

>>>When I close the drawer on my cabinet, the whole thing shakes. It

>>>also seems that the cabinet is leaning forward as it's no longer

>>>flush with the wall.

>>>

>>>The cabinet sits between the stove and the fridge. It's just wide

>>>enough for a coffee maker and toaster.

>>>

>>>I emptied the cabinet and I can see two screws (Robinston). I pushed

>>>the cabinet so it was flush with the wall and tried to tighten the

>>>screws. The screws wouldn't tighten?!?

>>>

>>>Is there some trick at tightening the cabinet? I tried to google for

>>>it but I just seem to find articles about loose cabinet hinges - none

>>>talk about loose cabinets.

>>>

>>>Any information would be greatly appreciated.

>>>

>>>Thanks.

>> What exactly do you mean "The screws wouldn't tighten"? Do you mean

>>they turn but don't secure the cabinet any better, they don't turn at all,

>>the turn and the screws tighten buy it did not help?

> I mean the screws wouldn't turn as if they were already as tight as they

> were going to get.

>> I would guess you could run a new screw or two into a stud back there.

> I thought of this, but how can I be sure they the original screws are in a

> stud? If they were in a stud, how could the cabinet have moved?

This is a bit confusing. When you push the cabinet back against the
wall, does the head of the screw protrude from the cabinet back? If so,
it might be in the stud but too long to hold the cabinet frame.

>> However I would wonder about the bottom. The cabinet should have been

>>shimmed so it does not rock even if the floor is not level. It should not

>>need screws in the back it should be resting solid on the floor. You may

>>want to consider the bottom of it. You may need to remove and reset it.

> Ah, I see. The kitchen floor is laminate (wood pattern). Around the bottom

> of the cabinet is this while trim-like wood. I'll remove that and see if I

> can reseat the cabinet.

> Thanks for the tips,

Does the cabinet merely move back and forth or does it rock? If it
rocks, then you need either to shim the front base or just take it out
and level the bottom (unless the flooring goes only part way under the
cabinet, in which case the flooring needs to be levelled)

Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 > last >>

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