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Posted by ryker on April 30, 2008, 7:19 pm
3500 sq foot house. I have 3/4 inch into the hot water tank, then into
wall, where it probably reduces to 1/2 inch. everything I see anywhere
in the house, crawl space, hot or cold is 1/2 inch. Cold water volume
is OK. Turn any faucet, to full hot and the volume is instantly
reduced, not the same as full cold. Shouldn't be though, the volume
into hot water tank is the same as the volume into the cold side of any
faucet, it just goes through the hot water tank first. How can I check
whatever needs to be checked, where ever it is. Could there be a
restricter on the hot water line in the wall I can't see, don't think so
though.
Any thoughts
Thanks
Bob
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Posted by Speedy Jim on April 30, 2008, 8:26 pm
ryker wrote:
> 3500 sq foot house. I have 3/4 inch into the hot water tank, then into
> wall, where it probably reduces to 1/2 inch. everything I see anywhere
> in the house, crawl space, hot or cold is 1/2 inch. Cold water volume
> is OK. Turn any faucet, to full hot and the volume is instantly
> reduced, not the same as full cold. Shouldn't be though, the volume
> into hot water tank is the same as the volume into the cold side of any
> faucet, it just goes through the hot water tank first. How can I check
> whatever needs to be checked, where ever it is. Could there be a
> restricter on the hot water line in the wall I can't see, don't think so
> though.
>
> Any thoughts
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
Yes, flow should be about the same as the Cold side.
I doubt there is any device inside the wall.
Could be a shut off valve on the Cold inlet to tank
is either partly closed or has failed internally to
block the flow.
Another good possibility is corrosion of the nipples
connecting the tank Cold/Hot ports to the 3/4" piping.
I assume the house piping is either copper or plastic,
not galv iron. If galv, then it would be suspect.
Jim
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Posted by Tony Hwang on April 30, 2008, 8:32 pm
Speedy Jim wrote:
> ryker wrote:
>
>> 3500 sq foot house. I have 3/4 inch into the hot water tank, then into
>> wall, where it probably reduces to 1/2 inch. everything I see anywhere
>> in the house, crawl space, hot or cold is 1/2 inch. Cold water volume
>> is OK. Turn any faucet, to full hot and the volume is instantly
>> reduced, not the same as full cold. Shouldn't be though, the volume
>> into hot water tank is the same as the volume into the cold side of any
>> faucet, it just goes through the hot water tank first. How can I check
>> whatever needs to be checked, where ever it is. Could there be a
>> restricter on the hot water line in the wall I can't see, don't think so
>> though.
>>
>> Any thoughts
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bob
>>
>
> Yes, flow should be about the same as the Cold side.
> I doubt there is any device inside the wall.
>
> Could be a shut off valve on the Cold inlet to tank
> is either partly closed or has failed internally to
> block the flow.
>
> Another good possibility is corrosion of the nipples
> connecting the tank Cold/Hot ports to the 3/4" piping.
>
> I assume the house piping is either copper or plastic,
> not galv iron. If galv, then it would be suspect.
>
> Jim
Hi,
If hard water area, tank capacity can be lessend by lime build up.
How old is the tank and when is the last time you flushed it?
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Posted by ryker on April 30, 2008, 8:43 pm
Yes the house is all copper. I have SS hose from cold inlet to
hot/water tank, think I will hook up a hose to that, run outside and
turn water on as if it was going into tank, that will tell me if the
shutoff is bad. Do the same thing to outlet of hot on water tank will
tell me if the tank is it I guess. Of course I will have to block the
open fittings. If those are OK, then what?
Thanks
Bob
PS Call a plumber.
Speedy Jim wrote:
> ryker wrote:
>> 3500 sq foot house. I have 3/4 inch into the hot water tank, then into
>> wall, where it probably reduces to 1/2 inch. everything I see anywhere
>> in the house, crawl space, hot or cold is 1/2 inch. Cold water volume
>> is OK. Turn any faucet, to full hot and the volume is instantly
>> reduced, not the same as full cold. Shouldn't be though, the volume
>> into hot water tank is the same as the volume into the cold side of any
>> faucet, it just goes through the hot water tank first. How can I check
>> whatever needs to be checked, where ever it is. Could there be a
>> restricter on the hot water line in the wall I can't see, don't think so
>> though.
>>
>> Any thoughts
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bob
>>
>
> Yes, flow should be about the same as the Cold side.
> I doubt there is any device inside the wall.
>
> Could be a shut off valve on the Cold inlet to tank
> is either partly closed or has failed internally to
> block the flow.
>
> Another good possibility is corrosion of the nipples
> connecting the tank Cold/Hot ports to the 3/4" piping.
>
> I assume the house piping is either copper or plastic,
> not galv iron. If galv, then it would be suspect.
>
> Jim
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on April 30, 2008, 9:58 pm
> Yes the house is all copper. =EF=BF=BDI have SS hose from cold inlet to
> hot/water tank, think I will hook up a hose to that, run outside and
> turn water on as if it was going into tank, that will tell me if the
> shutoff is bad. =EF=BF=BDDo the same thing to outlet of hot on water tank =
will
> tell me if the tank is it I guess. =EF=BF=BDOf course I will have to block=
the
> open fittings. =EF=BF=BDIf those are OK, then what?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
> PS Call a plumber.
>
>
>
> Speedy Jim wrote:
> > ryker wrote:
> >> 3500 sq foot house. =EF=BF=BDI have 3/4 inch into the hot water tank, t=
hen into
> >> wall, where it probably reduces to 1/2 inch. =EF=BF=BDeverything I see =
anywhere
> >> in the house, crawl space, hot or cold is 1/2 inch. =EF=BF=BDCold water=
volume
> >> is OK. =EF=BF=BDTurn any faucet, to full hot and the volume is instantl=
y
> >> reduced, not the same as full cold. =EF=BF=BDShouldn't be though, the v=
olume
> >> into hot water tank is the same as the volume into the cold side of any=
> >> faucet, it just goes through the hot water tank first. =EF=BF=BDHow can=
I check
> >> whatever needs to be checked, where ever it is. =EF=BF=BDCould there be=
a
> >> restricter on the hot water line in the wall I can't see, don't think s=
o
> >> though.
>
> >> Any thoughts
>
> >> Thanks
> >> Bob
>
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDYes, flow should be about the same as the Cold side.
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI doubt there is any device inside the wall.
>
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDCould be a shut off valve on the Cold inlet to tank
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDis either partly closed or has failed internally to
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDblock the flow.
>
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDAnother good possibility is corrosion of the nipples
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDconnecting the tank Cold/Hot ports to the 3/4" piping=
.
>
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDI assume the house piping is either copper or plastic=
,
> > =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDnot galv iron. =EF=BF=BDIf galv, then it would be sus=
pect.
>
> > Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
stainless hose is cause, although they look big on the outside they
are small on the inside..............
it acts as a restriction,
worse the rubber interior lining can detoriate over time, under full
flow the lining gets a ripple slowing flow, sometimes to a trickle.
i leared all about this mucking with a washing machine slow fill and
also my shower massage, the hose failed......... i thought the head
failed changed it no better,,,,,,,,, cut hose apart the interior
rubber was way too big and not attached to the outer sheath.....
a similar thing occurs with car brake hoses, push on brake pedal fluid
flows to caliper, let go interior of hose ripples and acts like a
check valve, brakes drag pads wear out, rotors overheat.
i suggest you put regular water line on your tank, toss the stainless.
DONT solder on the line going into tank, it will melt the dip tube,
damage the tank and you will be replacing it.
theres a slight chance of debris clogging a valve but i think its the
stainless line
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