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Metal Window Flashing rbmllm 01-12-2008
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Posted by on January 12, 2008, 11:24 am
Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
(galvanized) flashing? I am replacing aluminum windows with some
nice Andersen wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. I have
already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
the top. The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
seems to suggest it)? Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
using brick mold.

To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
install the window. I have searched for months on the net and can't
seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
roof. Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
tape?

Thanks for any help..

Posted by Joe on January 12, 2008, 12:12 pm
On Jan 12, 10:24=A0am, rbm...@yahoo.com wrote:
> Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
> (galvanized) flashing? =A0 I am replacing aluminum windows with some
> nice Andersen =A0wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
> having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. =A0I have
> already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
> step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
> the top. =A0 The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
> not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
> like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
> like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
> want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
> painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
> seems to suggest it)? =A0Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
> flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
> using brick mold.
>
> To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
> and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
> suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
> and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
> install the window. =A0I have searched for months on the net and can't
> seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
> roof. =A0 Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
> tape?
>
> Thanks for any help..

Check the 'This Old House' archives. IIRC, there are some articles on
window installation that might be pertinent. In our area aluminum
flashing seems to be the most common product and in your case might be
easier to install than a galvanized flashing. IMO, anything like tape
or flashing that directs water away from potential trouble spots is a
good thing HTH

Joe.

Posted by on January 12, 2008, 7:29 pm
> On Jan 12, 10:24=A0am, rbm...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
> > (galvanized) flashing? =A0 I am replacing aluminum windows with some
> > nice Andersen =A0wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
> > having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. =A0I have
> > already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
> > step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
> > the top. =A0 The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
> > not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
> > like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
> > like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
> > want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
> > painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
> > seems to suggest it)? =A0Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
> > flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
> > using brick mold.
>
> > To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
> > and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
> > suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
> > and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
> > install the window. =A0I have searched for months on the net and can't
> > seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
> > roof. =A0 Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
> > tape?
>
> > Thanks for any help..
>
> Check the 'This Old House' archives. IIRC, there are some articles on
> window installation that might be pertinent. In our area aluminum
> flashing seems to be the most common product and in your case might be
> easier to install than a galvanized flashing. IMO, anything like tape
> or flashing that directs water away from potential trouble spots is a
> good thing HTH
>
> Joe.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Thanks. I am pretty sure I have checked there but will look again.

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