|
Posted by lanman on September 17, 2007, 9:31 am
On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 13:31:34 -0700, "hallerb@aol.com"
>> On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 07:48:27 -0700, "hall...@aol.com"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> I posted here a couple of weeks ago asking about the feasibility of
>> >> installing a driveway in two phases. Phase one would be the excavation
>> >> and laying of a suitable base for a property which borders wetlands to
>> >> be done in the fall. Phase two would be laying the asphalt in the
>> >> spring after the winter thaw and after adding more base to re-level
>> >> any low spots caused by thawing and soft ground.
>>
>> >> After doing more reading on the subject, I have some follow up
>> >> questions.
>> >> - Is it better to remove more soft topsoil and increase the
>> >> size of the base. Note the water table under part of the driveway is
>> >> only about 4-5 feet below ground level and may even be less during
>> >> heavy rains.
>> >> - Is installing drain tile an option? Knowing that water can
>> >> move in both directions, will this serve to increase water under the
>> >> driveway rather than take in away.
>> >> - Should some type of edging be used to protect the sides of the
>> >> driveway?
>> >> - Should geo-textile fabric be used? Some contractors have said
>> >> it's a waste of money and they don't recommend it. Some say it may
>> >> help.
>> >> - Is an asphalt base rather than a crushed stone base a better
>> >> way to go? If so, how many inches deep should it be. I was planning to
>> >> use about 12" of crushed stone.
>> >> - One contractor spoke of "process material" which he described
>> >> as a concrete-like material which hardened when wetted. Is this in
>> >> addition to a gravel base or instead of a gravel base?
>>
>> >> Thanks again for any responses.
>>
>> >do you have ANY lower area to drain water from under driveway?
>>
>> >if not I recommend a gravel driveway built as best possible, then tar
>> >and chip surface which could easily be leveled and recoated yearly if
>> >needed.
>>
>> The road in front of the house slopes downward towards the rear of the
>> property and the wetlands. So draining would have to be towards the
>> wetlands which (I think) could cause the water to back up under the
>> driveway during heavy rains and winter thaw.
>>
>> I've read about tar and chip but have no idea what it costs. If it's
>> not exhorbitant, I'd consider it.
>>
>> >In any case I would do the base this year, gravel top and observe it
>> >for winter. see how much movement occurs.
>>
>> >ideally in such a challenging location the base should elminate ALL
>> >TOPSOIL even if you must execavate to 8 feet deep at least below the
>> >frost line.
>>
>> Well, if money were no object, I'd agree. I planned to double the base
>> from the usual 6" to 12", but I'd go to 18" if that would help.
>>
>> >you should check with authorties being in a wetland there may be a
>> >mountain of rules and regulations limiting what you can do.
>>
>> >might as well know that first.
>>
>> Good point. I'm ok in that area.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>tar and chip is pretty cheap. dig and lay gravel like your putting in
>a asphalt driveway. gravel gets compacted.
>
>then the slowly drive a tanker truck full of hot asphalt tar, which
>speads the black goo which is then covered with fine gravel and rolled
>making a nice gravel driveway.
>
>no matter what you choose I would spend the extra bucks for the fabric
>because mud alaways migrates thru gravel
I'm looked in my yellow pages for contractors that do tar and chip and
none were advertised, so I'll have to start calling and asking around.
I've read that tar and chip requires warmer weather than asphalt. Can
you give your opinion on how late this can be done in Southern New
England? Also, do you have an idea on the cost of the fabric. It seems
like a step I could do myself to save money.
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap