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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on September 19, 2007, 9:54 pm
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:30:13 -0700, "hall...@aol.com"
>
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> >> On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 13:31:34 -0700, "hall...@aol.com"
>
> >> >> On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 07:48:27 -0700, "hall...@aol.com"
>
> >> >> >> I posted here a couple of weeks ago asking about the feasibility of
> >> >> >> installing a driveway in two phases. Phase one would be the excavation
> >> >> >> and laying of a suitable base for a property which borders wetlands to
> >> >> >> be done in the fall. Phase two would be laying the asphalt in the
> >> >> >> spring after the winter thaw and after adding more base to re-level
> >> >> >> any low spots caused by thawing and soft ground.
>
> >> >> >> After doing more reading on the subject, I have some follow up
> >> >> >> questions.
> >> >> >> - Is it better to remove more soft topsoil and increase the
> >> >> >> size of the base. Note the water table under part of the driveway is
> >> >> >> only about 4-5 feet below ground level and may even be less during
> >> >> >> heavy rains.
> >> >> >> - Is installing drain tile an option? Knowing that water can
> >> >> >> move in both directions, will this serve to increase water under the
> >> >> >> driveway rather than take in away.
> >> >> >> - Should some type of edging be used to protect the sides of the
> >> >> >> driveway?
> >> >> >> - Should geo-textile fabric be used? Some contractors have said
> >> >> >> it's a waste of money and they don't recommend it. Some say it may
> >> >> >> help.
> >> >> >> - Is an asphalt base rather than a crushed stone base a better
> >> >> >> way to go? If so, how many inches deep should it be. I was planning to
> >> >> >> use about 12" of crushed stone.
> >> >> >> - One contractor spoke of "process material" which he described
> >> >> >> as a concrete-like material which hardened when wetted. Is this in
> >> >> >> addition to a gravel base or instead of a gravel base?
>
> >> >> >> Thanks again for any responses.
>
> >> >> >do you have ANY lower area to drain water from under driveway?
>
> >> >> >if not I recommend a gravel driveway built as best possible, then tar
> >> >> >and chip surface which could easily be leveled and recoated yearly if
> >> >> >needed.
>
> >> >> The road in front of the house slopes downward towards the rear of the
> >> >> property and the wetlands. So draining would have to be towards the
> >> >> wetlands which (I think) could cause the water to back up under the
> >> >> driveway during heavy rains and winter thaw.
>
> >> >> I've read about tar and chip but have no idea what it costs. If it's
> >> >> not exhorbitant, I'd consider it.
>
> >> >> >In any case I would do the base this year, gravel top and observe it
> >> >> >for winter. see how much movement occurs.
>
> >> >> >ideally in such a challenging location the base should elminate ALL
> >> >> >TOPSOIL even if you must execavate to 8 feet deep at least below the
> >> >> >frost line.
>
> >> >> Well, if money were no object, I'd agree. I planned to double the base
> >> >> from the usual 6" to 12", but I'd go to 18" if that would help.
>
> >> >> >you should check with authorties being in a wetland there may be a
> >> >> >mountain of rules and regulations limiting what you can do.
>
> >> >> >might as well know that first.
>
> >> >> Good point. I'm ok in that area.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >> >tar and chip is pretty cheap. dig and lay gravel like your putting in
> >> >a asphalt driveway. gravel gets compacted.
>
> >> >then the slowly drive a tanker truck full of hot asphalt tar, which
> >> >speads the black goo which is then covered with fine gravel and rolled
> >> >making a nice gravel driveway.
>
> >> >no matter what you choose I would spend the extra bucks for the fabric
> >> >because mud alaways migrates thru gravel
>
> >> I'm looked in my yellow pages for contractors that do tar and chip and
> >> none were advertised, so I'll have to start calling and asking around.
> >> I've read that tar and chip requires warmer weather than asphalt. Can
> >> you give your opinion on how late this can be done in Southern New
> >> England? Also, do you have an idea on the cost of the fabric. It seems
> >> like a step I could do myself to save money.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >fabric price call local suppliers like building suppliers
>
> I tried and my local building and supply company doesn't carry
> anything. Not surprisingly, neither does Home Depot. Lowes has a solid
> plastic barrier sold in rolls 6' x 100' and 6 mils thick, but I think
> that's not heavy enough.
>
> I'd like to get a brand name for the product and perhaps the name of a
> company that sells it online.
>
> >call and get on site estimatews from execavators, do you have close by
> >space to dump excess dirt?
>
> I do.
>
> >put gravel in NOW, then next summer go tar and chip.
>
> That's what I'm leaning towards. What would you recommend for edging.
> With tar and chip, I'd like to use some type of edging to help keep
> the loose stones out of the lawn. Belgian blocks come to mind first.
> Is there a preferred edging with tar and chip?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
you can use belgium blocks but they create grass cutting troubles.
steel eging works well to keep the stones where you want them.
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