Need Homemade Anti Foaming Agent for Rug Doctor

I forgot to buy anti-faoming agent for the Rug Doctor I rented this evening. I'd rather not go back out to get some since I want to get started first thing in the morning.

Do I have anything lying around the house that will work as an anti- foaming agent for the dirty water tank?

Thanks!

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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I can't answer the question, but I'd be interested in the final results when you're done, as well as your opinion of the machine itself. I was eyeing them at the store today, comparing the cost to a carpet cleaning service that's done decent work for me in the past.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

If you need "anti foaming agent" in the recovery tank, you are using far too much detergent in the main tank. That detergent stays in your carpet for the most part and will cause it to get dirty again far sooner than it should.

Follow the directions to the letter for the amount of detergent in the main tank.

-- "Tell me what I should do, Annie." "Stay. Here. Forever." - Life On Mars

Reply to
Rick Blaine

The Rug Doctor machine is a good rental, worth every bit. I've used them twice in a former home...renting from the grocery store. They make money on the liquid products.

-- Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Reply to
Oren

Does it leave much of a chemical smell during the drying process, or just detergent-ish? I work at home. There's no escape...however, I have maybe a month during which I can open lots of windows. After that....chilly.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

I've seen dish soap that kids (vandals) have put in a decorative water fountain that really over foams brought under control using liquid fabric softener.

Try a little bit in the dirty water tank.

Reply to
RLM

-- Follow the directions to the letter for the amount of detergent in the main tank.

Thanks for the reply, Rick, but that's not really the issue. The Rug Doctor instructions call for anti-foaming agent as follows:

"Anti-foam is necessary for carpet cleaning only if you've previously used high foaming shampoos or spray on products."

So while faoming may or may not be the result of too much detergent, that wouldn't be my problem since I am indeed following the instructions as per the amount of detergent to use "to the letter" - well, actually, to the number.

In any case, as it turns out, I started the job tonight and I don't need the anti-foaming agent, even while using the upper-end of the amount of detergent called for. There's so much dirt coming out the carpets that no self respecting bubble would dare form in the recovery tank!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I used the recommended liquids when I rented. IMO there was no significant odor or smell. Later I used upholstery cleaner in the car

- when the house was finished. Clean the car carpets :)

Allow to dry, and yes open windows will always help.

-- Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Reply to
Oren

Try a little PAM non stick spray. Works like a charm in my MagnaSand drywall dust sanding trap, might work with rug doctor too. HTH

Joe

Reply to
Joe

On the spot reporter here...

I just finished the living room and there is no significant odor to speak off. Of course, I'm right in the middle of it, so who knows. Maybe we could a fresh nose...come on over and sniff.

While I was cleaning the rug, my bare feet got wet enough to be slippery on the kitchen floor. Less than a half hour later, with a fan blowing on the rug, it's still damp, but not enough to make my feet slippery anymore.

Now, as far as the cleaning ability of the unit, I might be embarresing myself but I'll tell you the results...

It's been many, many years since the carpets were cleaned. I have 4 kids, a dog and a cat. 99% of the time shoes are not worn in the house. I used the strongest concentration suggested on the bottle (4 oz per gallon of hot water) and ran the machine much slower than the 1 foot per second suggested. The amount of dirt removed on the first pass was significant and there was a visible difference in the color of the beige rug. I ran a second pass a bit faster and although there was no visible improvement in the color of the rug, there also wasn't any visible improvement in the color of the recovery water either. It lok just as dirty to me. Just for fun, I ran a third pass with just hot water...kind of like a rinse. The recovery water was much lighter but was it because the carpet was finally getting clean or because there was no detergent to extract anymore dirt? Once I get done with the office and the stairs, I may over the living room again with detergent to see.

So the real question is: Was my carpet so dirty that even a professional machine would have taken 2 -3 passes, or are these machines just not powerful enough to get all the dirt out in one pass?

Cost in Western NY: $19.99 for 24 hours for a 10" wide machine. The wide track (16"?) would have been $24.99. The solution starts at $10.98 for a 48 oz bottle of the standard stuff, $12.98 for the oxy- enhanced version. The 48 oz says it does 450 - 900 sq ft. I'll agree with that based on the concentration I used, how many passes I made and how slow I went.

On to the office...

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Ah... Forgot about the situation where a previous cleaning may have left too much detergent in the carpet. Glad it worked out for you...

-- "Tell me what I should do, Annie." "Stay. Here. Forever." - Life On Mars

Reply to
Rick Blaine

No it doesn't, but if you really need clean, as in CLEAN, then you need to call the carpet cleaning people. A small motor on wheels is no match for a truck-mounted unit.

I used one recently and while the water was black when it was done, the light-colored carpet didn't look that much cleaner. I am only somewhat impressed with the Rug Doctor.

Reply to
Bob M.

vinegar

Reply to
dallas

Had the guys with the truck-mounted unit out. Half-assed job. A few months later, had some pros out with self-contained machines. MUCH better.

It's not always the equipment that makes the difference.

Reply to
clifto

on 9/21/2007 6:19 PM DerbyDad03 said the following:

Salt works, but I don't know how much you would need.

Reply to
willshak

That's true, but the OP said he had some service come out & do it a while back & they did a good job. If it were me, I'd call them back & not bother with the Rug Doctor.

Reply to
Bob M.

OP here...when and where did I say, imply or even hint in the remotest of manners that I had a service come out?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Homemade anti-foaming agents:

  1. A small amount of salt. Salt breaks down bubbles.

  1. A small amount of soap. Carpet cleaning machines use detergent and soap breaks detergent down.

Add this to the dirty water accumulation tank, where it'll break down the foam as the dirty water is sucked out of the carpet. Do _not_ add it to the clean water/detergent mixture tank.

HellT

Reply to
Hell Toupee

I don't use the rug dr. but I have the Bissell 2X and it just cleans great. But although I use the rug Dr. cleaning solution I always use Oxy Clean powder in the clean water bladder. I boil water and dissolve it and use it along with the cleaning solution recommended for the machine. I have Pale Grey carpet. I have a 3 yr. old Grandson and a dog. I have a white sofa and love seat that I use this on too. Furniture is 8 years old and I smoke so u know there is nicotine and my carpets and furniture look like new. I'm out of defoamer right now and can't find it in the stores around here so now what I have used is Baking Soda in the Bladder where u pout the clean water. I figured when I was little and my mother had the old fashion Wringer wash Machine she always wrung the clothes out in the rinse tub and added Baking soda to the water to get the soap out I would try it. Baking soda is in things like Calgon and it softens the water and neutralizes detergent. Its worked well for . ANY TIME U USE A POWDERED PRODUCT MAKE SURE IT IS VERY WELL DESOLVED OR U CHANCE CLOGGING THE MACHHINE. I also pre-treat any stains and when I make the first pass with the cleaning solution I give it a minute to actually dissolve the dirt. If u don't rinse carpet well uu will have a build up of soap which actually makes carpets sticky and will attract more dirt than before and the pile of carpet will not stand up and become nappy and hard to vacuum.REMEMBER NOT TO SATURATE CARPETS TO MUCH BECAUSE IF THE DON'T DRY U RUN THE RISK OF HAVING MOLD GROW BETWEEN CARPET AND PADDING.

Reply to
Margie

If you have liquid fabric softener in the house add a capful of it to the recovery tank (where the dirty water goes).

I learned about this in the Marine Corps when Tide was famous for over sudsing. A small amount of Downey (or whatever you have) will make the suds disappear in a few seconds.

Reply to
Larry

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