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Need cheap angle grinder for 1 job: 7" or 4.5"?

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Need cheap angle grinder for 1 job: 7" or 4.5"? Greg Guarino 05-10-2007
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Posted by Greg Guarino on May 10, 2007, 10:41 pm
I'm removing a chain link fence from my yard. I've been using a
Roto-Zip with a metal cutting wheel to cut the chain-link material
into manageable pieces. That works very well, by the way.

I'm going to need to cut the vertical metal pipe poles as close to the
ground as possible. They're set in concrete footings and I suppose if
I was younger and more ambitious I might try to dig them out. But the
poles feel really solidly anchored, and the footings are below the
level of the dirt.

Anyway, I see two angle grinders in the latest edition of the Harbor
Freight catalog. Both are priced at $30, one 4.5" and one 7". The 7"
has a 1.66 hp motor and the 4.5" one is something like half that. It
seems that the 7" wheel would allow me to cut through the
approximately 1.25" o.d. pipe without having to keep moving the tool
around different sides of the pipe. But the metal cutting wheels they
advertise say they have a 1/4" face. That seems pretty thick to me,
removing more material than might really be necessary. Might the 4.5"
tool be better in some way?

I don't imagine I'll be using an angle grinder too often for other
tasks, so I'm hoping the likely rock-bottom quality of these tools
won't be too much of a problem.

Greg Guarino

Posted by Dave Martindale on May 11, 2007, 2:01 am

>Anyway, I see two angle grinders in the latest edition of the Harbor
>Freight catalog. Both are priced at $30, one 4.5" and one 7". The 7"
>has a 1.66 hp motor and the 4.5" one is something like half that. It
>seems that the 7" wheel would allow me to cut through the
>approximately 1.25" o.d. pipe without having to keep moving the tool
>around different sides of the pipe. But the metal cutting wheels they
>advertise say they have a 1/4" face. That seems pretty thick to me,
>removing more material than might really be necessary. Might the 4.5"
>tool be better in some way?

That seems awfully thick. I have used thin cutoff wheels in my 4.5 inch
grinder, and they're only 1/16 inch thick. Even the grinding wheels,
used with one face against the work, aren't 1/4" thick.

With the same wheel thickness, you'd expect the larger grinder to cut
faster because of more power and higher surface speed at the wheel
edge. But if the thinnest cutoff wheel you can get in 7" is
substantially thicker than what you can get for the 4.5 inch grinder,
the latter might end up being faster because you're removing less
metal. So look at what wheels are available first.

        Dave

Posted by Levitation29 on May 11, 2007, 3:04 am
yeah, I've used my 4.5 grinder for cutting a lot of metal..notably
rebar. but heck, you can get a sawzall for $100 nowadays,
toolbarn.com has an 11A Milwaukee for $109 right now)
and. Get one of the nice metal cutting blades, and you're all set.

safety-wise, you're probably going to want to make two cuts anyhow.
One to get the pole down, another to get as close to the ground as
possible...gotta be careful with that grinder/cutoff wheel on pipe.


actually if you don't already have 'em...get both the 4.5" grinder
and the sawzall. They're always good for something.

digging out the concrete by hand can be brutal. I've done it
with an electric jackhammer. Makes it more doable. (rather than
wrestling a solid 100lb+ cylinder of concrete.)

-lev

Dave Martindale wrote:
>
>> Anyway, I see two angle grinders in the latest edition of the Harbor
>> Freight catalog. Both are priced at $30, one 4.5" and one 7". The 7"
>> has a 1.66 hp motor and the 4.5" one is something like half that. It
>> seems that the 7" wheel would allow me to cut through the
>> approximately 1.25" o.d. pipe without having to keep moving the tool
>> around different sides of the pipe. But the metal cutting wheels they
>> advertise say they have a 1/4" face. That seems pretty thick to me,
>> removing more material than might really be necessary. Might the 4.5"
>> tool be better in some way?
>
> That seems awfully thick. I have used thin cutoff wheels in my 4.5 inch
> grinder, and they're only 1/16 inch thick. Even the grinding wheels,
> used with one face against the work, aren't 1/4" thick.
>
> With the same wheel thickness, you'd expect the larger grinder to cut
> faster because of more power and higher surface speed at the wheel
> edge. But if the thinnest cutoff wheel you can get in 7" is
> substantially thicker than what you can get for the 4.5 inch grinder,
> the latter might end up being faster because you're removing less
> metal. So look at what wheels are available first.
>
>         Dave

Posted by on May 11, 2007, 5:10 am
wrote:

>I'm removing a chain link fence from my yard. I've been using a
>Roto-Zip with a metal cutting wheel to cut the chain-link material
>into manageable pieces. That works very well, by the way.
>
>I'm going to need to cut the vertical metal pipe poles as close to the
>ground as possible. They're set in concrete footings and I suppose if
>I was younger and more ambitious I might try to dig them out. But the
>poles feel really solidly anchored, and the footings are below the
>level of the dirt.
>
>Anyway, I see two angle grinders in the latest edition of the Harbor
>Freight catalog. Both are priced at $30, one 4.5" and one 7". The 7"
>has a 1.66 hp motor and the 4.5" one is something like half that. It
>seems that the 7" wheel would allow me to cut through the
>approximately 1.25" o.d. pipe without having to keep moving the tool
>around different sides of the pipe. But the metal cutting wheels they
>advertise say they have a 1/4" face. That seems pretty thick to me,
>removing more material than might really be necessary. Might the 4.5"
>tool be better in some way?
>
>I don't imagine I'll be using an angle grinder too often for other
>tasks, so I'm hoping the likely rock-bottom quality of these tools
>won't be too much of a problem.
>
>Greg Guarino

Use the 4.5" so you can get a thin cutter wheel. It's not that big of
a deal to move around the pole. Harbor Freight tools are junk. Angle
grinders are very handy tools, I'd opt for a better quality one. I
never pull nails out of framing wood anymore, I just cut them off with
my grinder, and reuse the boards. If you still want a cheapo model,
I'd go to Menards. I have a top brand name grinder, but I got tired
of changing from the cutter to the grinder wheels when I weld.
Menards had their generic brand grinder on sale for $12.99 a few years
ago. I decided for that price I could afford to toss it after a few
jobs. It's worked flawlessly and seems to be well built for a cheap
tool. Since then I bought their generic brand hammer drill and that
seems to be a well made tool too.

On the other hand, if you dont want all those chunks of concrete in
the yard, you can lease a skid loader for around $100 per day. Wrap a
piece of heavy chain around the post and you can rip them out of the
ground. Then knock off the cement with a sledge and sell the pipes.
Steel is high, so you might cover the cost of the rental.

Posted by Doug Miller on May 11, 2007, 7:59 am
wrote:

>On the other hand, if you dont want all those chunks of concrete in
>the yard, you can lease a skid loader for around $100 per day. Wrap a
>piece of heavy chain around the post and you can rip them out of the
>ground. Then knock off the cement with a sledge and sell the pipes.
>Steel is high, so you might cover the cost of the rental.

Steel may be high, but it's not *that* high. He'd have to recycle at least
half a ton to cover the cost of a $100 rental, and that's a LOT of fence
posts.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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