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Need cheap angle grinder for 1 job: 7" or 4.5"?

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Need cheap angle grinder for 1 job: 7" or 4.5"? Greg Guarino 05-10-2007
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Posted by bill allemann on May 11, 2007, 10:30 am
Posts aren't that hard to dig out concrete and all. I just don't like
leaving stuff like that in the ground.
Just dig down one side almost to the bottom of the concrete cylinder, and
tip over the post. When the post is laying flat on the ground, you can pop
the concrete off with a hammer.
I've done this a bunch of times and we're talking max 10 minutes per post.

> I'm removing a chain link fence from my yard. I've been using a
> Roto-Zip with a metal cutting wheel to cut the chain-link material
> into manageable pieces. That works very well, by the way.
>
> I'm going to need to cut the vertical metal pipe poles as close to the
> ground as possible. They're set in concrete footings and I suppose if
> I was younger and more ambitious I might try to dig them out. But the
> poles feel really solidly anchored, and the footings are below the
> level of the dirt.
>
> Anyway, I see two angle grinders in the latest edition of the Harbor
> Freight catalog. Both are priced at $30, one 4.5" and one 7". The 7"
> has a 1.66 hp motor and the 4.5" one is something like half that. It
> seems that the 7" wheel would allow me to cut through the
> approximately 1.25" o.d. pipe without having to keep moving the tool
> around different sides of the pipe. But the metal cutting wheels they
> advertise say they have a 1/4" face. That seems pretty thick to me,
> removing more material than might really be necessary. Might the 4.5"
> tool be better in some way?
>
> I don't imagine I'll be using an angle grinder too often for other
> tasks, so I'm hoping the likely rock-bottom quality of these tools
> won't be too much of a problem.
>
> Greg Guarino



Posted by Greg Guarino on May 11, 2007, 11:46 am
On Fri, 11 May 2007 14:30:24 GMT, "bill allemann"

>Posts aren't that hard to dig out concrete and all. I just don't like
>leaving stuff like that in the ground.
>Just dig down one side almost to the bottom of the concrete cylinder, and
>tip over the post. When the post is laying flat on the ground, you can pop
>the concrete off with a hammer.
>I've done this a bunch of times and we're talking max 10 minutes per post.

From what I've been able to see, these are not cylinders. They were
put in a long, long time ago and appear to be of indeterminate shape
and size. Very solid, nonetheless.

Greg Guarino

Posted by DT on May 11, 2007, 10:47 am
The small 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinders work very well, I've used my cheapie for
years. $30 is way too much to pay for a single use tool. Harbor Freight has
several for $15 right now, also get a 10 pack of the cutoff wheels for $3.49.
Just search their web site for "angle".

--
Dennis


Posted by Robert Barr on May 11, 2007, 7:07 pm
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I'm removing a chain link fence from my yard. I've been using a
> Roto-Zip with a metal cutting wheel to cut the chain-link material
> into manageable pieces. That works very well, by the way.
>
>
> I don't imagine I'll be using an angle grinder too often for other
> tasks, so I'm hoping the likely rock-bottom quality of these tools
> won't be too much of a problem.
>
> Greg Guarino


Sounds like a good excuse to treat yourself to a Sawzall (or other brand
recipro).

Posted by Greg Guarino on May 12, 2007, 2:45 am

>Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I'm removing a chain link fence from my yard. I've been using a
>> Roto-Zip with a metal cutting wheel to cut the chain-link material
>> into manageable pieces. That works very well, by the way.
>>
>>
>> I don't imagine I'll be using an angle grinder too often for other
>> tasks, so I'm hoping the likely rock-bottom quality of these tools
>> won't be too much of a problem.
>>
>> Greg Guarino
>
>
>Sounds like a good excuse to treat yourself to a Sawzall (or other brand
>recipro).
I've got a cordless one. I used it to cut the horizontal pipe at the
top of the fence into manageable pieces. That's probably the limit of
its capability. But otherwise it serves my (occasional) need for such
a tool.

I find myself thinking that I'll be able to cut the pipe closer to the
footing with a grinder. I'm sure that the closest I could get with a
sawzall is about 3/4".

Greg Guarino

Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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