Need help figuring out how to fix rot damage

Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on October 31, 2009, 8:39 pm

> maxi...@cheerful.com wrote:
> ...

> > Yes but would you replace the whole beam? All 20' of it? Or can I just
> > tack on a stub to replace the damaged bit, which doesn't quite reach
> > the vertical support?

> The pictures I saw show the damage but not the structure. =A0What's the
> load? =A0Whatever is left w/ the repair has to have the same structural
> integrity as the original (unless the beam is simply decorative, not
> structural). =A0Not enough info to tell.
> --

The first thing to do is put up a gutter so that water does not come
directly off the rooof and collect at the joint that has now rotted
out.

Posted by JIMMIE on October 31, 2009, 8:35 pm

On Oct 31, 8:06=A0pm, maxi...@cheerful.com wrote:

> > On Oct 31, 7:05=A0pm, maxi...@cheerful.com wrote:

> > > (I thought I'd be able to edit my post after sending.) Anyway here ar=

> > > more photos. Any help appreciated!
> > >http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?3e3cd9ba18.jpghttp://www.fr.=

> > Part of the problem is the way the beem protrudes beyound the facia.
> > This allows water to collect there on top of it. It looks like
> > temporary supports could be put in place while the damaged parts is
> > removed and replaced. After replacement I would apply flashing and
> > caulk to protect the facia and provide water drainage. Also consider
> > redesigning the way the beam extends beyound the facia. Cutting it at
> > a slope to help it shed water would help.
> > Jimmie

> Yes but would you replace the whole beam? All 20' of it? Or can I just
> tack on a stub to replace the damaged bit, which doesn't quite reach
> the vertical support?- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Really cant tell from the photo.You got to expect the OP to have some
common sense about this sort of thing otherwise he shouldnt be messing
about with it anyways.

Jimmie

Posted by on October 31, 2009, 8:51 pm

Common sense yes, which is why I'm not just going to Bondo it and walk
away :). I might even hire (choke) a professional (cough) to do it, as
I'm just a handy homeowner type. But quite handy, with a lot of
experience. The beam is definitely structural - it supports the whole
porch roof. The part where the fascia crosses the beam is completely
gone, but even though the fascia is a 2x6, I'm assuming (and that's
why I'm asking you guys) that it's decorative, and the true support
for the roof is inside where I can't see it. (A theory supported by
the fact that the fascia is in 2 joined pieces.) If that is the case,
might I be able to pop off the fascia (easier said than done I'm sure,
as the flashing from the roof is nailed to it, but anyway), open up a
bit of the stucco soffit so I can see what's going on, and saw the
beam off at the vertical support. Then somehow fasten another foot-
long piece to the end of the beam, make a new piece of fascia, and
button it all back up again?

I know, if you can't see it you probably won't be able to tell me. If
there's an angle in a photo you need to see, I'll take it and upload
it. I'll probably go to a contractor to fix it, but if I can do it
myself then I can pay for another semester of my son's college ...

Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on October 31, 2009, 9:47 pm

On Oct 31, 7:51=A0pm, maxi...@cheerful.com wrote:

> Common sense yes, which is why I'm not just going to Bondo it and walk
> away :). I might even hire (choke) a professional (cough) to do it, as
> I'm just a handy homeowner type. But quite handy, with a lot of
> experience. The beam is definitely structural - it supports the whole
> porch roof. The part where the fascia crosses the beam is completely
> gone, but even though the fascia is a 2x6, I'm assuming (and that's
> why I'm asking you guys) that it's decorative, and the true support
> for the roof is inside where I can't see it. (A theory supported by
> the fact that the fascia is in 2 joined pieces.) If that is the case,
> might I be able to pop off the fascia (easier said than done I'm sure,
> as the flashing from the roof is nailed to it, but anyway), open up a
> bit of the stucco soffit so I can see what's going on, and saw the
> beam off at the vertical support. Then somehow fasten another foot-
> long piece to the end of the beam, make a new piece of fascia, and
> button it all back up again?
> I know, if you can't see it you probably won't be able to tell me. If
> there's an angle in a photo you need to see, I'll take it and upload
> it. I'll probably go to a contractor to fix it, but if I can do it
> myself then I can pay for another semester of my son's college ...

From the photos, it looks like the various pieces are staying in place
even though there is daylight between the two main pieces. My
comments on the need for a gutter still stand. I would replace with
pressure treated wood for all involved replacements. Can you get
pressure treated 2x 6, 2x8, 2x10's etc? If you could do a lap joint
when you replace the bad wood, it would be a lot stronger than just
replacing the entire rotted out section with a butt joint onto the old/
new wood. I would have lots of support posts ready to hold everything
up before starting to do anything.

Posted by DD_BobK on October 31, 2009, 10:25 pm

On Oct 31, 5:51=A0pm, maxi...@cheerful.com wrote:

The detail (close up) photos are fine...what we need is global shot to
establish context.

Like the third photo but from further away. And some white space in
your post to make it easier to read.

Guessing from the existing data, I think what I'm seeing as the 2x6
member is not a fascia but an edge rafter? You mention it being in
two pieces...is that the "joint" above the beam? It appears to have
been notched at the time of construction. The notch provided a water
entrapment feature and thus a perfect place for rot to grow.

Dont saw off the beam! I would consider busting open the stucco
soffit and tapering the top surface of the beam to remove the
rot......maybe enough material can be removed to get down to sound
material within the limit of the 2x6. Then consider sistering in
piece to reinforce the 2x6 and bear on the sound beam material.

Whether this apporach will work depends on the geometry of the
rafter / beam interface and the extent of the rot. The bending load
in the beam at the rotted section is probably low and the beam
behavior is most likely shear dominated that the point so you might be
able to get away with a reduced beam depth at the rafter bearing
point.

Remove are much rot as possible and treat with a anti-fungal when the
ant-fungal solvent carrier evaporates do an epoxy (not bondo) repair

www.abatron.com sells structure wood repair epoxy

cheers
Bob

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