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Need to plug crack in concrete basement wall - TODAY

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Need to plug crack in concrete basement wall - TODAY Steve Henderson 01-20-2007
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Posted by Steve Henderson on January 20, 2007, 9:48 am


I have a crack in my basement concrete wall where the water pipe enters
the house. It's a hairline crack about a piece of paper wide that
radiates down from the copper pipe about 1 inch then takes a 90 degree
turn to the right for a couple of inches. It weeps during heavy rains,
and eventually forms a little stream on the floor just big enough to be
annoying as it tries to find the lowest point in my basement. It's not
much - probably 1 gallon overnight during very heavy rains (I caught it
in a 5-gallon bucket last time), but it could become bigger, so off to
Home Depot I went.

I got some stuff called Drylok Fast Plug, that looks like it'll do the
job. However, it says to "back chisel out the area to be patched to the
shape of an inverted "V". Now, that seems like one of those things that
looks all neat-o on paper, but in reality, I can see me blowing out a
bigger chunk of concrete than I want to (and not in the shape desired).
So, instead of using the chisel I bought, I'm thinking I should try to
use my drill with a concrete saw wheel to try to "cut" it out. I want it
bigger inside the wall than at the surface, so the plug is locked in.
Any suggestions about the best way of going about this? Another wet
winter storm headed my way, and I'd like to get this done today.

Regards, and thanks.
Steve Henderson

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Posted by Eric in North TX on January 20, 2007, 9:57 am



Why not just pump it full of silicone chalk? I've fixed cracked
aquariums with the water still inside, & toilet tanks as well. I'm
pretty convinced it will seal anything involving water except where it
is under considerable pressure, with minimal prep.


Posted by mm on January 20, 2007, 2:10 pm


wrote:

>
>Why not just pump it full of silicone chalk? I've fixed cracked

You mean 'caulk', right?

>aquariums with the water still inside, & toilet tanks as well. I'm

The difference might be that there is no dust associated with an
acquarium, and maybe not with a toilet tank, and maybe not with the
OP's wall. He didnt' say.

But if there is dust, it would keep things from adhering. I've used
Shoe Goo, and Goop to repair shoes -- they seem to be a form of
silicone caulk -- and they work fine except in one pair where part of
the rubber in the vertical middle of the sole, under the arch, keeps
crumbling. I scraped it out with a screwdriver to get rid of anything
that was going to fall out, and that didn't work. So this last time,
I scraped even harder. I think in places I got to the next layer, top
and bottom, it will stick, and those places might be enough. I could
buy more shoes -- I have more shoes -- but I'm driven like Ahab to fix
these.

However if there is no dust or crumbling, I would also recommend
PC-70, which will dry while water is leaking around it. You have to
keep pushing it back into the hole becuse the water will push it out,
but after 10 or 15 minutes of tending it, it set sufficiently not to
move anymore, and was waterproof as a sink drain afterwards, at least
for the 3 months I lived there.

Try to find the two 4-oz. cans rather than the 1- or 2-oz double-ended
tube that HD sells. The stuff will keep for 5 or 10 years or more if
one part doesn't touch the other part, and tighly sealed.

>pretty convinced it will seal anything involving water except where it
>is under considerable pressure, with minimal prep.


Posted by mm on January 20, 2007, 2:12 pm


wrote:

>
>Why not just pump it full of silicone chalk? I've fixed cracked
>aquariums with the water still inside, & toilet tanks as well. I'm
>pretty convinced it will seal anything involving water except where it
>is under considerable pressure, with minimal prep.

It sounds like the whole crack is only 3 inches long, so any technique
can be accomplished in a reasonable time.

But the OP should definitely look outside at downspouts and
splashblocks and anything else that might be fixable.

Posted by Tom The Great on January 20, 2007, 10:55 am


On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 14:48:02 GMT, Steve Henderson

>I have a crack in my basement concrete wall where the water pipe enters
>the house. It's a hairline crack about a piece of paper wide that
>radiates down from the copper pipe about 1 inch then takes a 90 degree
>turn to the right for a couple of inches. It weeps during heavy rains,
>and eventually forms a little stream on the floor just big enough to be
>annoying as it tries to find the lowest point in my basement. It's not
>much - probably 1 gallon overnight during very heavy rains (I caught it
>in a 5-gallon bucket last time), but it could become bigger, so off to
>Home Depot I went.
>
>I got some stuff called Drylok Fast Plug, that looks like it'll do the
>job. However, it says to "back chisel out the area to be patched to the
>shape of an inverted "V". Now, that seems like one of those things that
>looks all neat-o on paper, but in reality, I can see me blowing out a
>bigger chunk of concrete than I want to (and not in the shape desired).
>So, instead of using the chisel I bought, I'm thinking I should try to
>use my drill with a concrete saw wheel to try to "cut" it out. I want it
>bigger inside the wall than at the surface, so the plug is locked in.
>Any suggestions about the best way of going about this? Another wet
>winter storm headed my way, and I'd like to get this done today.
>
>Regards, and thanks.
>Steve Henderson


When ever I hear about people having basement water problems, it seems
that the first place they tackle is outside. They try and elminate
water sources making it to the foundation. Downspouts pointed away
from the house, for several feet, sloping land away from the
foundation, etc.

Have you tried workign outside first?

tom @ www.YourMoneyMakingIdeas.com


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